Four or five years ago when I was putting together my carbine I installed a Surefire G2 with LED kit and click-switch kit in a Vltor mount. This was mounted to the Midwest Industries front sight rail mount.
Now in the process of helping someone else put together a carbine it looks like the Vltor mount I used has been discontinued, and I’m sure there are better choices out there than a Surefire G2. I’m in the process of reading several threads so I’ll find that answer out soon enough.
I’m hesitant to spend $200 or $300 on a weapon light.
I also know my friend wants to mount the light to the front sight base.
What are my alternatives in 2014? Do you guys favor a certain combination of accessories more than others?
Surefire p2x fury 500 lumen, and either viking tactics mount or impact weapons components mount… thats the combo i run on two guns and have no plans on changing
I’ve had an OLight M20 Warrior for a couple years. I recently got my first AR, so I’m mounting it on my rifle. The OLight Warrior is a damn fine light for the money. Tough as nails. Three brightness levels, rear clicky switch, strobe mode, runs on one 18650. Nice battery life. It won’t break the bank at around $100 for a very solid torch.
With the exception of more lumens coming out of the same models with designations like “ultra” and “fury” nothing dramatic has changed. G2X is also a hell of a light with a lot of available options to mount it. X series lights at 12 o’clock are hard to beat if your rail/sight/any aiming lasers allow for it. Pushes you into more money, but it’s a hell of a way to run a white light and you don’t need any special mounts.
As to the mounts…I doubt I’ll ever look at anything other than https://www.gearsector.com after using a couple. They’re fantastic, and Jason is amongst the best guys in the industry. They’re not the only game in town, but in my opinion are amongst the best if not the very best.
But honestly for a tight budget there’s still not a damn thing wrong with an LED model of the G2 and a VTAC mount.
There are other and newer games in town like Inforce that are a little less expensive than Surefire(and may be worth checking out particularly for a 12 o’clock mounting…but with Surefire you’re buying a known bombproof product and the very best customer service in the industry…indefinitely.
Seems like I just read on here the other day that the 6p and the g2 were not recommended as weapon lights because they aren’t as shock proof as the x series and the scouts. I know people use them quite often so maybe someone can verify that. I was searching something similar so I’ll have to see if I can find it again. I have been looking at the o lights as well, I’m interested in the crimson version of the m20.
That’s what I figured. I was surprised to read it considering I have never heard anything of the sort. I’m looking at the gear sector mounts whenever I decide which light to buy. I’m leaning towards the mini scout for mine.
I am happy with an Inforce WML @ ~$110 with 200 lumens. Low profile with a built in pressure switch. Perfect for me in front of BUIS at 12oclock on a 13" rail.
a used Surefire scout or X300 will run you $100-$150. That’s the way to go. Surefire E-series lights are also excellent, but only with single output heads (VTAC series and legoed others.)
Gear Sector and IWC make the most useful and modular mounts available.
As the idiot that started that thread, I agree. You’ll be absolutely fine using the G2X/6PX/P2X series of lights as weapon lights for most, if not all, applications.
For the record, what I said was that the G2X/6PX/P2X were not intended to be used as weapon lights. However there are tons of people out there throwing buckets of ammo downrange that have essentially proven that the X-series handhelds are at least as durable as the rest of the SureFire line. And even if you did manage to break one, SureFire always takes care of you.
The purpose of my thread was to see if anyone actually had broken one of those lights in that role, to either confirm or disprove that original intention, and not to dissuade anyone from the use of the X-series handhelds as weapon lights. Though looking back I could see why someone reading my thread would think that.
As I stated in another thread, I believe the urban legend that G2’s et al are subject to being damaged by normal use (recoil) came about after people experienced breakeages with incandescent bulbs. AFAIK this whole controversy went away when LED’s became prevalent. I actually had to change the heads to LED’s on my first two Surefires after reading a bunch of posts on incandescent breakage and needing shock isolation kits, etc.
If FSB mounting is a must, check out the Mossie Tactics 2400 with a Surefire X300U (and Unity Tactical EXO) or Streamlight TLR-1 HL. If he’s got rail space behind the FSB, a cheaper option is the IWC Thorntail and Surefire P2X Fury Tactical or EAG version. That would keep you under $200 and give you a flexible mounting system with a proven 500 lumen light.
Anyone who says they aren’t acceptable for use is blowing smoke up thy ass, though.
As stated:
^ this is why people are shy about running non “weaponlights”.
A standard G2 (Incan) can give up the ghost under heavy recoil.
Roc_Kor, your statement, “…for most, if not all, applications” is on the money. Unless you have a specific need for additional options like NV-compatibility, tape switches, etc. you will be well-served by a G2/6P/E-series light.
I have run a lot of lights that weren’t sold as weaponlights, and they have all performed when summoned. My biggest caveat is to make sure you do not get a dual-output light as a Weaponlight. Tried it with an E1B and an E2L and they are sub-optimal.
All the above being said, the tailcaps on the millennium series weaponlights are my personal favorite.
I’m still a big fan of the VTAC L4’s, especially in 3V flavor, with any aftermarket mount. I’ve got one on a VLTOR mount, one on an 03DG offset mount, and another as a tertiary light system. I’d argue these are the cost conscious version of the Scout series of light, since they share the KX-(N) heads and Z38 tailcaps, just require an aftermarket mount to attach it to a rifle (in offset form, something required for the scout lights anyway).
I like the “pistol” lights at 12:00 but side mounted, the “handheld” lights work just as well, IMO. I always carry a spare light on my belt so if the first one goes TU, I can R&R and motor on.
I like the Viking Tactics mount - cheap, lightweight, and I prefer something made out of a less rigid material than my rail. in the event of a severe impact, I want the attachment to fail before the expensive part…
FWIW, I use Surefire 6P with Malkoff LED, a Clicky switch on the FSB with the GG&G SlicThing (I like 2 screws) with “whatever” (Weaver) is low 1" scope ring with “wing nut” to remove the light easily if I need to.
I agree with a single mode light and I like to be able to remove the light if I need to without having to get tools.
If I had to buy now, I’d get the 6PX Defender (aluminum body, single mode w/clicky) for $80 mounted on a GG&G Slic Thing and 1" rings … or try the Elzetta ZFH1500 (looks practical).
Side note…watch out for on-the-shelf Surefire lights or really good prices online. Surefire has significantly improved the LED lumen outputs and have added clicky’s to some of their lights but on-the-shelf items may be the older lower lumen lights and twist type switches.
I ran that setup for a while when I was ballin’ on a budget (albeit with a VLTOR Scout mount vs scope ring). It actually positions the light well and worked just fine. I also hacked off the right side pic rail on the MI mount to lighten it up a bit.
Actually, if I can dig them up you can have them. They hardly look new but they’ll serve you well. Shoot me a PM.
that started that thread, I agree. You’ll be