I have no experience with such things and have paid no attention to them. I viewed them another range toy gadget kids, range ninjas, etc, were using. I’m never an early adopter of tech, especially tech related to firearms. Anyway, FRT discussion seems reasonable as to SD/HD at least:
This was posted over on Glocktalk a few days ago. We have one of these things but haven’t taken it out of the box.
My thoughts are that it’s asking for trouble from scumbag Soros backed DAs even if they are legal.
Plus a guy we know brought one out and it doesn’t work 100%. He ended up with several live rounds unfired with the hammer down.
Seen one, and an Arizona Regulator, work fine in others’ guns.
I see no use for one in a home defense rifle. As a rifleman I value accuracy over volume.
As a former SAW gunner I do value suppressive/volume of fire, when appropriate.
To me, the main niche for devices like these and the trigger kicker is in a dedicated ARPK type gun, as part of a fire team, not in the primary go-to rifle on the wall I grab when I hear the bump in the night.
In a HD rifle, I don’t know? But, if you want to get a belt fed upper and set it up with a lower that has an FRT it would be a great area denial weapon.
I just need to save up for that belt fed upper.
FRTs are very fun.
I forgot about those uppers. Looked one up a few weeks back and my knees buckled at the price.
Considering the cost of ammo in these modern times, fun I will forgo. The few times I was able to play with full auto was via at some PD range where the ammo was free for them and plentiful. Even most PDs now limit the ammo allowance due to cost.
For the newer FRT’s, it shouldn’t be a problem since the FRT function can be selected. If you leave it in semi, it is no different than not having an FRT. If you want to rely on the FRT option, you better have it tuned for it. Just adding an FRT and leaving the same H buffer weight is probably not going to be reliable. They usually require an H2 or H3. KAK Industries has also made a special dead blow BCG (DBC) with down or side vents that from what I have seen in testing (I have not tried it), allows you to keep using the buffer you have.
That sounds feasible, as I do run H2s in everything.
I still don’t think I’d ever need the FA option though in that application.
Oh yeah. Not cheap. My director of engineering and I have been busting each others’ balls for years about who is going to buy one first. Hasn’t happened yet lol
I got one for a TX22. 22lr aint bad and in a pistol it’s fun AF. I don’t use the AR one as much for the reason you mentioned.
Exactly. It’s a 3 position safety. I have one of the old ones so I don’t have that option but I am looking at the new AS Design ones that also works with all my G-SSAE triggers.
I use an H3, but it’s also an 11.5
Same here. It’s wasteful even if the ammo is cheap. We got to run a full auto gun a few weeks back and did some 750 yard bursts to see if we could keep the hits on or near the target. 3-5 round bursts prone with a loaded bipod. I couldn’t quite get comfortably locked in though.
Then we ran some frangible on a 10 yard steel target. After picking up both of those brass piles I can say the itch was scratched and have no desire to burn up ammo like that again any time soon.
I was leaning towards the ARC Fire version. It seems most guys that have a bunch of different FRT’s seem to favor that one. You just have to dremel the right side front corner of the casing on the Geissele trigger for any of the safety selector type designs to work. The milspec triggers already have that portion missing. It’s easy to do, they even make a jig you can 3d print to mark the trigger where to dremel.
Not sure I want to Dremel a Geissele SSA-E for a range toy “super safety”
The model we have is the “cassette” style FRT that’s a complete drip in with the trigger included. I’m just too lazy to pull out a real trigger for this range toy.
You can buy Geissele’s precut if you don’t want to do it. It doesn’t look all that hard though. You can see in this precut version where they took off the corner and slightly rounded off the other side. That’s really it.
That is the easiest solution, but heard the trigger isn’t all that great. They are, however, working on a better trigger version.
The one we have is the cassette type but it has 4 suspension springs on the bottom of it for some reason. I’d be curious to feel how this trigger is just dry firing, but I hate changing triggers.
You are talking about the Partisan trigger right?
I don’t think so. It has a 3 letter name I think. I’d never heard of this company before.
