I have been reloading rifle bullets for a few years and plan to start reloading .223Rem. I just bought a Smith & Wesson M&P15OR (1 in 9 twist) rifle that shoot .223 or 5.56 and I really enjoy shooting it. I’m starting to gather a lot of brass. I am reloading these to save some money, get better accuracy, and because I like reloading and ammo testing. I just though I’d ask some questions that might help me save time and money because this is the first time I am reloading for a semi action and in a new caliber.
I have an older version (70’s) of the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Single Stage Press Master Kit with a new scale and some other tools that I got from my uncle who taught me to reload.
To load the .223Rem I am going to order the following for MidwayUSA which comes out to about $25.
Trimmer Pilot - #22 for my Lyman Trimmer
Lee RGB 2-Die Set 223 Remington (the RCBS die was not rated well in .223)
Lee Universal Shell holder #4
I plan on reloading with a Hornady 55 grain FMJ bullet with CCI 400 primers. I’m not sure on which powder and how much to use. I want the gun to cycle properly and I’m not interested in any “Hot loads” that many cause problems with my gun. My reloading manuals are old from the early 70’s and doesn’t have current data. I am looking to shoot economically but I don’t mind spending on something that might work better or shoot cleaner and such.
Any suggestions on a load or equipment?
What powder and how much should I use?
Will the Lee shell holder work in the RCBS Rock Chucker Press? I never had to change it
Might want to look at the 3 die set, comes with the factory crimp die and the shellholder. You can find all the load data online from the manufacturers.
I use the RCBS X-die so I only have to trim once and get many more reloadings per case. I also happen to have the RCBS 2-die set for .223 and it works fine. The only criticism I have is the seating stem has a cup on the end that does not fit all bullet styles well.
You will want a press mounted collet bullet puller. The .224" bullets are a bit light for the inertia puller to work without a LOT of hammering for a crimped bullet. I have a Hornady but I think everyone makes one that works about the same (camming lever and collet).
For 55 gr FMJ bullets I use Varget and it seems to like to be loaded near max. I seat to COL = 2.205" (where the cannelure ends up for the bullets I use) and use 26.5 gr Varget for about 2850fps from a 16" barrel. It is a tad more accurate at 27.0 grains which is the max and gives about 2900 fps. You can down load but much below 26.0 grains and velocity drops below 2800fps and the cases come out sootier so I guess they are not expanding and selaing the chamber as well.
I haven’t shot these other powders in .223 yet, but my research shows that Hodgon BL-C(2) and H4895, W748, TAC, and Reloader15 might be good as well. Varget seems good to me and I just found 8# of it so I am set for a while.
The shellholders should interchange. I use Lee, Hornady and RCBS shellholders in my Lee press.
I am fairly new to loading .223…I have found that lee shellholders suck. Way to much play in them. I bought RCBS shell holders for my press and they are much better. You can get started with the lee for cheap but you my want to upgrade your shell holders. I have been loading Remington 55gr FMJ with 24.2 gr of H335. I have found my Stag to fully function from 23.0 grains and up. I am loading to an OAL of 2.230-2.235. H335 meters great and it is one of the most common and readily available powders around here. Alot of guys are using Win 748 as well. .223 is fairly easy to load. Good Luck!
Another vote for H335 or TAC (actually, any appropriate ball powder). Meters much better than extruded. Check Hogdon’s and Ramshot’s website for loading data.
Get the 3-die set that includes a Factory Crimp Die. Or get a taper crimper from whoever.
The supplied Lee SH should work in your press.
If this is your first entry into bottleneck cartridge reloading, I recommend you use Imperial sizing wax for a lube or use Lee lube diluted 1:4 with 91% alcohol and let the alcohol evaporate over several minutes after spraying. Make sure you adequately lube, stuck cases are a PITA.
Ramshot TAC and X-Terminator work great for heavier and lighter bullets, respectively.
Varget is also a favorite among those wanting to load both .223 and .308, but better suited toward the heavier bullets since you won’t get enough in the case to push the lighter bullets to the velocities that other powders (i.e. XT) can.
I am using RCBS SB .223 dies I bought like 30 yrs ago, still going strong, never had a problem.
The Hornaday bullet is good in my opinion, and I use 25 grs. of AA2230 under it. Others have given their loads, which are no doubt working just fine for them. I have used a bunch of powders over the years…Win 748, Varget, some IMR’s etc. There are many to choose from. If I were to switch from AA2230 I would try TAC. I like fine grain ball powders, they meter very well.
I noted all of the loads to try later, the reloading manuals I have are from the 70’s and they don’t have alot of .223 up-to-date powders and bullets. I just finished loading all of the brass I had in .243Win and .308Win. and was looking to start .223 while I am waiting on the weather to warm up. I use the oil-less casing lube and still roll the casings on a pad. I’ll try the spray stuff when I’m out. Ha! I got one stuck in a die once and learned.
I’ll switch to the RCBS shell holder, I have mostly RCBS equipment except for the trimmer and I am happy with it.
I looked through all of my powder I got with my setup. I have a can and a half of IMR3031 that I don’t use on other loads. I think I’ll start with it because I have so much. Any one try this powder?
If you want to try surplus powders the WC844 / WC844T is supposedly non canister grade H335 equivalent (which means lot to lot it can vary some) and is much cheaper. Find someone else interested in some to split with you and buy a case of 4 or 6 jugs and save a bunch of money. patsreloading.com has it (I have no interest in that company except as a satisfied customer)
I have never used it but a quick google of “imr3031 223” shows a bunch of people using it so you should be GTG if you have good data and work something up
Hey guys I’m new to the whole reloading gig and will likely be picking up a Lee Anniversary Kit sometime in the next couple months. I will be reloading 5.56/.223 mainly for a 10.5" Barrel with a 1:7" Twist and was wondering what grain is best for this.
I plan to pickup a 16" AR within the next year and a half too and will want to reload for it too, it will also have a 1:7" twist. At this stage I’m not looking at any sort of progressive press or anything. Don’t plan to reload for pistol or go progressive for at least 2 years.
What will you be doing with the gun?
What range do you want to shoot out to?
I would guess that 75’s are about the max weight which will stay stable at the lower velocities you will have.
Focus on the 69 SMK’s or similar which can be loaded at mag length and push fast enough to get out past 600 for accuracy work.
The heavier ones might be ok but start to become unstable. you would also have issues with powder space and mag length with long projectiles.
There is such a huge plethora of acceptable powders to use. Me personally, I have always stuck with Hodgdon powders to include Varget, H335, BLC-2, & Benchmark for loading 223. There are so many good, acceptable powders from different manufacturers that will suffice fine. Most importantly find a powder that is available consistently and one that will give you a lot of variety for your loads whether different calibers, different loads, etc.
I can still remember the first time I fired my first 223 reload through an AR. I sat there and fired the rifle with my eyes closed, mainly fearing catastrophic failures of my upper do to overpressure because of something I did wrong on my part.
For primers, (I know people are going to come on hard and flame me for this!) I use Small Rifle Magnum Primers. Upon researching different boards and manufacturers it was made clear that CCI Arsenal Primers are similar in performance to regular SR ones and WOLF suggests using their SR Magnum for 223/5.56 AR loads. I want to say the thing I remembered about this debate was that the Magnum primers had a more denser/thicker head on them to prevent slamfires and other anomalies.
To the OP, if you’ve been in the reloading game for awhile you will not have any troubles with 223 loading. Just find a powder that works for you and stick with it. Also, one thing I didnt mention was that IMR has a newer powder that is labeled by the trade name of IMR 8280 XBR and is supposedly the SH!T for 223 loads. If you need some more assistance please PM me and I will give you my recipes for my 223 powder charges.
Don’t be afraid to experiment with your loads. Try to cross reference your load data from loading manuals from reputable companies. However, don’t use loading data that you find posted on the internet unless you can back it up in a reloading manual or is coming from the powder company itself!
Good Luck!
for the best results in geting the cases sized back to factory min dimension as possible and therefore most likely to work well in a variety of guns SMALL BASE sizing die is the way to go. I actually prefer rcbs to lee any day. Also 223 cases stretch and lengthen quickly so expect to do a lot of trimming. if using mil surp brass rememeber to check for berdan priming and you will have to swage or trim primer pockets.back when ammo was 20-30 cents a round I did not bother mcuh,now I am feeling the need again
