Has anyone had any firsthand experience with the Polish Tantal “Sporter” model that numerous distributors are now carrying? To my understanding, this is a Polish parts kit built on a DC Industries receiver (U.S.) with a TAPCO G2 trigger kit. The barrel is NOT chrome lined.
Main concerns;
-Is that G2 trigger kit indicative of the “quality” associated with TAPCO products?
-Would you be concerned with a barrel that is chambered in a round that is primarily corrosive, but not chrome lined?
-Is anyone unhappy with the performance of the 5.45 (Right now, you can purchase a 1,080 rounds for $120.00. As opposed to $130.00 for 700 rounds of 7.62).
OR Should I just scrap the entire idea and splurge for an ARSENAL SLR107CR?
The G2 is widely accepted among AK-philes as a good product.
I like 5.45. It’s very close to 55 gr 5.56 in terms of trajectory and recoil impulse. With a regular 74 brake or the Tantal brake, it’s a VERY soft shooter. Even with a bare muzzle, it’s very soft shooting, which is a bit different from some of the bare muzzle ARs I’ve run across.
My biggest gripe with the Tantal 5.45’s is the wire stock, but that can be easily remedied by installing any of the available fixed stocks for a stamped receiver. My second biggest gripe was the non-standard muzzle device, which just looks funky to me. It can’t be replaced with a standard AK74 brake without a trip to an AK-smith who knows what he’s doing.
I have no comment on the corrosive/chrome question. I thought the Tantals were chrome lined.
I have Century Tantal and I am happy with it. Century’s are said to be hit or miss; mine is fine.
Subzero’s points are well taken. I replaced stock as well. I also dislike proprietary handguards - can’t mount Ultimak, for example.
I don’t shoot corrosive ammo, although I have some saved. If I were to shoot it, I’d be cleaning the rifle compulsively, chrome-lined barrel or not. Non-corrosive Wolf is quite inexpensive.
Gentleman - follow this one closely - the early “Century” models used a converted 5.56 barrel and would fire the Bulgarian 52gr just fine, but any of the Barnul or Wolf that were heavier as well as longer and would not stabalize. I was getting key holes at 25m! I returned to Century for credit at a distributor. I’ve “heard” that the later models have corrected this somehow, not sure how other than a new barrel.
Recently purchased a High Standard AK 74. Box is marked Interarms-Arsenal line WZ.88. Polish kit built on a DC Industries reciever. Good build. Weapon shoots decent groups. Everything functions great. Able to pick up three extra mags (steel) for about $10 each. Also have one Bakelite mag, total of 5 with the gun. Been shooting the Monarch steel case stuff.
will try to attach some photos.
ok, how do i attach photos here, don’t laugh, i am new to all of this
All of the tantals that i have seen locally feature a VERY gray coating on all of the steel parts. Im not sure if its the lighting in your photograph or if you have a different generation of gun.
What should i look for when shopping for a tantal? Does the finish have anything to do with the generation of gun/barrel being offered?
Originally the Polish military finish was black paint over phosphate (parkerizing), when the kits got demilled here and rebuilt, a lot of places, rather than painting the receiver, would just re-parkerize everything.
If you’re looking for a Tantal, I’d personally buy a kit, buy a receiver from NODAK and have a good smith put it together.
I’d aboslutely give priority to getting an original chrome lined barrel.
The original barrels are 1/7" for the very long bulleted 53 gr. 7N6 issue ammo, the US barrels are made by Green Mountain, have .223 bores (not .221) and have a 1/9" twist, which can lead to the keyholing issues.
The finish on my 74 is a dark grey parkerizing. Very even and appears to be a good quaility finish. From what we were told by the owner, (a group of about 5 of us) when we bought them, was that the builds are fron Polish kits/US receiver and done here in Houston at High Standard, and then finished locally.
My barrel appears original since I have found some pitting around the end of the barrel. Nothing major or deep. It is where the muzzel brake is in contact (?).
I just double checked the receiver info, reads Nodak Spud LLC. I mistakenly posted it was a dc industries. Sorry for that.
I would love to change out the wire folder though. Can anyone offer some suggestions. Either a fixed or the heavier V shaped folders.
