Mobil1 …mainly because I can get it at WalMart…and a quart goes a long way.
I really like Weapons Shield. It is a much improved version of FP-10.
I have never seen a non-grease lube that lasts as long as this stuff.
TW-25B by Kleenbore is no longer available. I don’t why they discontinued it, but it was very effective for resisting dust and maintaining lubrication without burning off after one 30 rd mag.
I managed to find one bottle of it left on the shelf at one of my gun dealers and still have some left that I’m using on all my pistols.
Aside from that I’ll use anything that I have on hand. Breakfree, Slip 2000, Hoppes gun oil, and even Mobile 1.
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kleenbore used to buy and re-brand the TW25B from Mil-Comm. It is very good stuff.
Just about anything but CLP. I’m lazy and don’t clean my guns much, and I have had the best luck with SLIP and Machine Gunners lube.
Wow, I loved the stuff and now that I know where to get it, I’m buying more.
Thanks to both of you for our responses.
I’m curious about the few that posted about using grease in their AR’s. I always used CLP in my old Colt, but the day I bought my M1A SOCOM, I started using Militec-1 and absolutely love the stuff. I use it in my IMI Uzi as well - it’s made cleaning the Uzi incredibly easy and is a permanent part of my SOCOM-16. I had never thought of using it on an AR. With my build underway, I’d like to know the experiences, (ins, outs, ups downs) with using grease. Thanks so much.
if you got money to burn , LaRue machine gunners lube,or slip 2000,if you want to save your money for ammo you can use Mobil 1 oil and be lubed just as good . no BS try it for your self and see . $5.00 a quart instead of $7.00 an ounce. 
You can use any gun oil and lots of it.
This sounds like a thread on bicycle chain lubes from several of the cycling forums I post on! 
+1. In fact, if you run Mobil 1 in your vehicle and save the empty containers, you can usually drain out plenty of oil from the “empties” to use to lube rifles/pistols/shotguns (been there, doing that). Since most people toss the empties, if you drain them instead you get FREE instead of $7/ounce.
Heck, you might even be able to get empties from a quick-lube place or Wal-Mart auto department. I haven’t seen any such place really care one way or the other. (After I drain them, I use them to put used brake fluid into when doing brake jobs.)
I USE CLP AND NON CHLORINATED BRAKE CLEANER
BRAKE CLEANER NC I SPRAY OUT THE UPPER
WORKS SO GOOD AND SO CHEAP
I HAVENT USED SLIP
Do they give free samples:)
BREAKFREE/CLP thats is
Got a FREE SAMPLE from them last year or so
STUFF WORKS GREAT
ELEPHANT SPERM
I USE IT ON MY NEW WEAPONS
I hear you on that. I’ve also seen someone post a lube that they use on their AR that I use on my MTB chain…Boeshield T9. Good to know, I guess…
Is your caps lock key broken? 
You guys are making the “gun” companies rich. 7-$10 an ounce.:rolleyes: Buy a pound of high temp lithium wheel bearing grease for 5$, and have enough lub for years. Unless it is very cold, HTLWBG is the “best” lube so far. It doesn’t burn off at all, and will keep your gun wet for thousands of rounds. I just “cleaned” an AR that had almost 4K rounds without cleaning, and had grease reaplied twice during that time. It was still running, however the 1/8in of carbon buildup on the bolt tail, and the fact that you couldn’t see the star chamber for all the crud was starting to make it get “sluggish.”
If it really cold, or if it’s a pistol I generally use motor oil. Motor oil works great too, and lasts about ten times longer then “gun” oil.
That’s where CLP is strong. CLP dropped into the exhaust ports after a range session will break up that carbon in a day or so.
I put two drops in each exhaust port and work the bolt back and forth before I put my gun in the truck.(I pull the carrier back so the CLP can hit the back side of the bolt where the carbon accumulates) A day later almost all of the carbon wipes right off. I have to scrape if I clean the very same day.
Now you can still use another lube for actual shooting, but for knocking that carbon down, CLP works half way decent with some time to soak.
Anything that keeps the bolt wet will work. The only question is how often will you need to apply it?
If you shoot less than a few hundred rounds in a session, anything better than liquid margarine will keep you going.
If you shoot over that, the higher performers will keep you running longer before needing reapplication to the critical areas.
If you will be exposing the weapon to field conditions, you will need something that won’t bind foreign material to your working parts (like grease will).
I got a 5oz free sample of Otis CLP. I’m gonna mess with that for a little while, I do like to Mobil 1 idea though.