Hey guys, I’m looking to find out what the folks here look for in a AR15 to determine if it’s a “good one” or a “bad one”, aside from the obvious like functional issues, poor fit and finish, etc. Things like the Bushmaster rifles not having staked gas keys.
I would like to compile a list of what AR15 connoisseurs look for when evaluating a new rifle.
Thanks guys.
The “chart” is a good place to start. Do a search, you will find it (maybe it’s a sticky in the tech forum?). Usually, these features can be distinguished by restricting the search to particular manufacturers (e.g., Colt, LMT, BCM, DD).
If you buy the rifle new, you shouldn’t have any problems. If you start buying home builds or parted rifles, then you have to start checking every little detail.
I am not a fit and finish guy.
Reliability is number one for me. I gotta say, “the chart” helps with that. Not saying I won’t get an occasional Lemon, but those companies are more than willing to work with you if you do have problems.
Staked keys are a must, as well as MP/HP testing on the bolt at least. 5.56 chambering, 4150 barrel steel. Castle nut should be staked. Personally, i am a Chrome lining fan, for the barrel.
Reputation is big, but some of it does come from the Chart. Conversely, If I find that a certain company that scores high on the chart has treated their customers unfairly, like has happened, I will go with another. That being said, BCM is tops. Their customer service is second to none, and their rifles are very reliable.
For me, it is easy. I call the manufacturer and ask questions about the TDP. If they do not know what I am talking about or give vague answers I have no interest.
If they do (somewhat) follow the TDP, but have some kind of ghey bug/insect/reptile on the side of the gun or if their marketing system looks like it fell out of a TAPOUT commercial, I am out as well.
So following the above, that leaves me with:
Colt
BCM
DD
Noveske
C4
I don’t know if I can consider myself an AR “connoisseur” but assuming the rifle is assembled and functions properly, the first thing I look is if it’s configuration fits what I plan to use the rifle for. After that, I look at the quality and specifications of the barrel. The barrel is the foundation of the rifle. I check for rifle twist. While the 1/9 is a good choice if the shooter stays with shorter bullets, I think the 1/8 & 1/7 are better choices for my use.
I will pass on M4 & government profile barrels. Not because they are bad, I just don’t want the M203 cut of the M4 or the poor weight distribution of the gov.
The one barrel profile I’d like to see is what is commonly called the “sporter” profile, like what’s found on hunting bolt actions. It would be just a little thicker and heavier than an AR lightweight or “pencil” profile.
If there is anything on the rifle that shouldn’t be, or anything that adds unnecessary weight, I lose interest. Gimmicks are a no-go. I will check for fit & finish and examine the small details. While the cosmetic aspects of fit & finish do not make a rifle shoot or function better, proper fit & finish and attention to detail tells me whether or not the folks who made it “get it” or if they are simply hamfists trying to make a buck
Does it have quad rails? Standard M4 stock? A1 upper? Vertical foregrip? Pass. None of these items affect the quality of the weapon nor are they bad features, they’re just not what I want to spend money on. (Quad rails are not a complete deal breaker. I would buy a KAC SR15 E3 because I like how it handles. Otherwise, I would choose standard handguards over a quad to save money and install a FF handguard I like.)
Low quality optics, mounts & rings? Low quality furniture? Pass.
I will look to see how the rifle shoulders and how it feels in my hands. If the fit, feel or balance is awkward, I’ll pass.
The hardest thing to explain and is strictly a personal quirk, I look to see if the firearm- any firearm- talks to me. If it lays in my hands dead and inert, I will pass. There needs to be some sort of tug before I buy. Strange and probably useless in answering your question, but it’s a factor
So following the above, that leaves me with:
Colt
BCM
DD
Noveske
C4[/QUOTE]
Is this in any certain order?
I dont really have a list I go by. I dont buy complete rifles any more, cause I can get better for cheaper, if I do the work. I always start a new build off with a statement of its intended purpose. I physically write it down. If this rifle is for, lets say, home defence, I write it on the top of a piece of paper. I then start writing down requirements and needs that this build will have to meet, I make a general list.
For example:
Depends on your use. BCM, DD, and Colt are all built to a high standard and can be had for a great price. Noveske barrels are a cut above the other three and they’re more expensive but still…a great rifle.
Is this in any certain order?
Nope.
Out of them though, only Colt has the TDP.
C4
…
No LMT?
Im in the same boat with these guys, no frills or gimmicks just a solid reliable tough rifle. Built with excellent quality control and and stringent testing backed with good customer service.
I’ll add LMT to Grant’s list.
I just went through the buying process. I am a hands on person, I want to touch and look at what I am buying-if it is not available I am probably going to wait until it is or look at another option.
The list above was “the” list for me. There were no BCM uppers or rifles in my area (including Palmetto Armory), I did like the LMT but the DD mid length no sights was the right set up and felt the lightest. Also, the DD compared very favorably on the “Chart”. I found the chart very helpful as someone with a lot of pistol experience but not a lot of AR experience.
What basic technical specs should be insisted on? Check “The Chart”.
What do I look for in a weapon I am going to throw my $$ at and expect it to perform to my standard?
Any of the following names, depending on my application:
BCM
Daniel Defense
LMT
Noveske
KAC
Colt
A mid-length gas system. True, a carbine gas system on a 16" barrel isn’t the Great Satan that some seem to imply, but I am used to middies and I have no compelling reason to deviate from my preference. For 18" barrels I prefer the intermediate or rifle gas system. Colt doesn’t offer a middie, but I would choose the 6920 over any other carbine gas 16".
“Flat-Top”, railed upper. While I do employ both fixed and folding back-up sights, the primary is locked to the upper receiver, and doing that with an A2 or A1 carry-handle blows.
Usable barrel profile. I am not really a “fan” of pencil barrels (though I do own one), but the M4 profile is silly. I like a “mid-weight” profile, such as that found on BCM, DD, KAC, and Noveske. I doubt that they are all the same, but they are all of similar concept.
12" handguard (or so). Sure, you can replace the HG if you don’t like it, but I prefer to have it done before I get it.
Decent stock. Whether it is an LMT SOPMOD or a MagPul MOE, like a handguard, I’d rather not pay for it twice.
I want a free hat and a sticker to go with it. Or something along those lines.
Seriously, pretty much everything was touched on above. But some free crap never hurts. 
Hah I agree!
I prefer a paint-stirrer.
hmmm, can you be a little more specific???
No, don’t.
I prefer the 5 gallon bucket size paint stirrers. They make great tools for spanking the back side of my kids. When they were young, they’re 11 and 13 now, all I had to do was pull out that paint stirrer and things changed in an instant.
Back to the OP’s questions now.
When I first joined here I read over the Chart and did a ton of reading on the site. Mil-spec became the descriptive word for me. That lead me to decide on the following brands
BCM
Daniel Defense
LMT
Noveske
KAC
Colt
My present AR is comprised of a LMT lower and a BCM 14/5" Mid upper.