Well guys,
I’m trying to decide on a tubular free float forend for my Colt 6920. I LOVE the way they look, and I LOVE the fact that I can add rails WHERE I want them (on some models, not all).
SO, that said, I’m thinking of either a JP VTAC, OR the PRI tubes.
Now I don’t know WHICH lengths can be used on my rifle, nor do I know much about the PRI. I have read a lot on the JP VTAC, and it looks good.
I don’t know which is lighter, nor do I know if they are both lighter than my stock M4 handguard.
Furthermore, I do not know of any advantages/disadvantages between the two, or as compared to my stock OEM handguard.
Finally, I do not know if there are ANY other similar round forends/rails, that I might be overlooking, that would also fit my bill?
If anyone here has an opinion on WHICH tube to go with, I would very much appreciate the help. I have no one around with any sort of tube like this, to try out first, nor do I have any dealers around that stock these.
I’m basically buying “blind” so to speak, so I could use a little help guys.
Thanks so much. You guys are the best I tell ya…
First off you need a Carbine length tube for your 6920.
I have the JP/VTAC and the PRI (with the standard rail set) on two of my midlength gas port rifles. Actually I’m in the process of installing a JP/VTAC, just waiting for the red Loctite to cure.
BTW this is my second JP/VTAC. The other is a Rifle length installed on my SPRish rifle.
IIRC the PRI is a bit heavier than the VTAC due to the steel barrel nut assembly (barrel nut, jam nut and threaded collar of the tube)
Installing the JP/VTAC is a bit more involved than other free float tubes.
With the PRI and other free float tubes the barrel is fastened to the receiver with a barrel nut that has external threads. The jam nut is threaded onto the barrel nut–all the way to the rear. Then the free float tube is mated to the barrel nut. Then the jam nut is backed up and threaded onto the free float tube collar.
The JP/VTAC requires a little fitting.
In both installations I’ve done, the forward end of the ejection port hinge pin has to be filed down about 0.025" (and touched up with Perma Blue) in order for the outer barrel nut (tapered shroud) to clear.
Then the outer barrel nut has to be threaded on using RED (high strength) Loctite until it butts up against the front of the receiver AND with the gas tube passages in the receiver and outer barrel nut aligned.
If the outer barrel nut doesn’t butt up against the receiver, the barrel nut will be loose.
This second installation required me to remove 0.005" from the rear of the outer barrel nut. I placed a sheet of 400 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper on a sheet of glass, splashed some water on it and rubbed the back face of the outer barrel nut in a circular motion until enough material had been removed so that the outer barrel nut buts up against the receiver.
Then I had to touch up the exposed metal with Alumi-Black and let it cure overnight.
This afternoon I reinstalled the ejection port cover assembly, applied RED Loctite to the receiver threads and threaded on the outer barrel nut.
Note: cured RED Loctite is difficult to break free and essentially makes this a permanent and difficult to reverse modification.
The outer barrel nut and receiver alignment must be verified before the RED Loctite sets. This can be done visually and mechanically.
Visually you can align the bottom scallop on the outer barrel nut with the center of the upper receiver pivot lug, then the gas tube shroud with the upper receiver raiil and lastly, peering through the gas tube passages to make sure the gas tube has clearance.
Mechanically you can use the gas tube or a #15 drill bit to check the gas tube passage. If you’re installing a top rail, temporarily install the free float tube and rail to the outer barrel nut and use rails as an alignment guide. In my case I used a Larue SPR mount bridged across the upper receiver and free float tube rails.
Once the RED Loctite is cured, I’ll remove the Larue and the free float tube with attached rail.
That’s when I’ll be able to install the barrel.
BTW you’ll have to strip the barrel before installing either the JP/VTAC or PRI: flash suppressor; side-sling adaptor if present; front sight base; handguard cap; gas tube and barrel nut in order to slide the barrel nut into position where you can thread it onto the outer barrel nut or receiver threads respectively.
Once the inner barrel nut is tightened to spec, you’ll be able to install the free float tube.
After that you can reinstall the front sight base, gas tube and flash suppressor. Best to install the gas tube in the FSB and slide them on as a unit. Alternatively you could slide the gas tube in from the inside of the receiver.
A bit of work and skill required. Not sure what tools you have and what your skill level is, but you should simply consider having a custom upper built instead of modifying a factory Colt upper.
Aren’t there some VTAC models that have a hole for a FSB, but extend past it?
Yes, I think there are, if not for the VTAC, then for the PRI, but I can’t remember which. Regardless, I think the ultra s-m-o-o-t-h look of all the tubes (without stock FSB’s), in your pics, look much better Zak. Damn some of those rifles w/tubes look GOOD. A FSB in the way with the tube notched all around it, would totally kill the rifles good looks, IMO… Don’t ya think???
The main reason I like tubes is for the ability to “grasp” them, especially on barricades, etc. They also have fewer sharp edges and less bulk when the tube will be used instead of a VFG.
[ link to LARGER image ]
[ link to LARGER image ]
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For the carbine length tube there is an extension attachment. Basically it slips into the open end of the carbine tube and fastens with screws.
You belong here in California where style and appearance trump functionality.
Found it
[ link to LARGER image ]
Yeah well, you and I both know that good looks NEVER trump functionality, but there certainly is nothing wrong with setting up a rifle that cosmetically pleases the owners eye. In fact, with all of todays options and accessories, part of the process of setting up a rifle is finding one that NOT ONLY is functional, but ALSO looks good to the owner/operator.
You can HAVE cali…
Yeah Zak, the tube notched around the stock FSB doesn’t look as bad as I remember it. Still though, the others look a little better IMO… SWEET pics…
Hey Zak,
Couple more things I thought of.
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In the TOP pic you posted, in regards to the rifle with the new UBR stock. What color is that UBR? FDE or OD? Looks like it could be either.
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In the second pic down, on the guys rifle with the High power conventional scope, what could your buddy possibly be using that rail for??? Referring to the one that seems to be mounted at the 1-2 o’clock position, closest to the shooter himself… I’m wondering what he mounts there? A light I suppose? Laser?
Finally, in the last pic, I must say that I’m REALLY digging that last pic of the VTAC, EVEN with the FSB still installed, I love that look. I previously thought it would not look good with that FSB still on there, but damn it sure is sweet.
I just might have to go that route. I wish I could handle both, or AT LEAST ONE of those tubes you have pic’d, BEFORE I buy. However, I’m stuck buying blind, and your pics Zak, are basically the only visual that is going to be helping me decide between the two. Damn how I wish I could just see these tubes in person, for a MERE 2 minutes!!! Woudn’t take me but a second to decide if that was the case…
If ANYONE in Atlanta area is reading this, and owns either of these two tubes, I will pay someone to let me look at their tubes for a few minutes!!! Hell, anyone in North GA???
Thanks Zak…
I think it’s FDE - definitely NOT OD; but ask Drake to make sure.
The 1:30’o’clock rail is for a DrSight or JPoint as a close-range optic, e.g.
http://demigod.org/~zak/DigiCam/CAV17/?small=A100_0479_img.jpg
Wow, ok, I have been considering a Dr Optic for my TA11, and I was thinking the best option would be to mount it up top, just as they come from the factory on the TA31’s.
I know it’s high up there, but I thought that would be the easiest, and quickest position to get the red dot on the target, if need be.
I just kind of liked the Dr Optic up on top of the ACOG, but this is definitely something to think about. I have seen them mounted at an angle(canted) on top of conventional high-power rifle scopes before, but never on the side of a tube/forearm before.
SWEET…
It retains a low sight over bore distance, and to use it, you just rotate the gun 30* “in”, keeping the same cheek weld.
In 3Gun, it’s only allowed in Open division…
-z
Has anyone tried Dave Lauck’s forearm? He is such a innovative smith I wonder if it carries over to his products.
I’m sorry this is way off topic, but is that a rear sight in front of the Aimpoint? Can a rear sight even be functional that far forward and in front of your Optic? Sorry, the picture baffled this dumb ape. 
Yes that is indeed a sight in front of the aimpoint. It is another one of Dave’s innovations. This is what the sight picture looks like through the aimpoint.
I suppose it works pretty good up close but I wouldn’t want to try and shoot out past a 100 yards with it.