I’ve currently got a TLR-1 with the remote pressure switch on my rifle. I haven’t had the chance to get to the range since adding the light, and likely won’t be putting a huge quantity of rounds through it when I get there.
I’ve been looking at how the connector for the pressure switch connects to the back of the light and it has me concerned about it popping out or at least coming loose under recoil and rendering the pressure switch useless until reseating the connector.
Does anyone have experience with this setup?
How has it worked out for you?
Did you have to secure the plug in any special way?
I’m new to lights on carbines, so if it can make a difference I’ve got it mounted at 12 via the UTG barrel mount.
Remote switches are a weak component, across the board. This is pretty much regrdless of brand, and in spite of the fact that Surefire has made what I think of as significant strides with their offerings.
There’s little to be done about it besides keep a reduncancy of remote switches on-hand for instances in which they may fail.
That said, the Achilles heel is a relatively thin wire that can get pinched and lose connectivity, a sheathing that can get melted and result in the same…things like that. Recoil impulse is highly unlikely to unseat the plug. If it does, have them replace your whole switch; that’s completely uncool.
If you end up with the cable hanging out all over the place, so that it gets snagged on you or whatever and ends up yanking the plug out (likely damaging either the plug itself or the wire where it leads in to the plug), then it’s on you, not the integrity of the plug.
Oh yeah, I’m totally with you on Santoro. If that line snags and f-ups something that’s my fault. I did my best to dress it up and use some tiny cable ties to hold it in place.
I’m looking at how the TLR-1 remote switch plugs into the back of the new switch plate I got and it seems really loose.
I hope you’re right, we’ll know in about 2 months when I can take it out and put some rounds through it. Hopefully I’ll be sighting in my new ACOG at the same time!
I understand that you have already spent money, but if you are concerned about it you should consider remounting the light to a location that allows for direct manipulation without the pressure switch. Something such as a midwest industries FSB mount (3 or 9 o’clock), a MOE rail section on the hand guards, or a mossie tactics FSB mount (12 o’clock). Remove the potential failure point from the equation.
I hear you, OP- I’ve always thought the tape switches etc. look awesome but have been afraid of their reliability (whether due to inherent design issues, or cables getting snagged on things). I am shaving my FSB to run a 12" rail out on my rifle so I can mount my light in a more easily accessed location, without feeling cramped.
What kind of handguard/rail do you have? You could look into the Larue index clips as well if you have a picatinny rail, since they come with a handful of clips that have wire hooks on them.
I think their pressure switches are around $30 or so. Personally, I’d try to sell it on eBay or something and eat the $15-20 lost, in favor of the default toggle switch/bar that comes with the TLR1…but if you want to keep the pressure switch, I’d just spend some time making sure that cable is completely out of the way and that there are no pinch points, or areas where the cable might touch something hot.
I like tape switches because I want to be able to run my light at the 12 o’clock position. The 12 o’clock position just makes so much sense to me because my sights are going to be aligned to the target regardless if I’m standing, prone, going around a corner, etc…
I’ve got a mid-length quad rail w/ a low mount gas block that has no front sight on it. My ‘irons’ are a set of Magpul MBUIS sights.
Eh, I’m not too worried about the money. I’m more concerned about having a 12 o’clock light position solution that works. My main concern was just the strength of the connection after you insert the plug, if it may pop out since it doesn’t lock into the back of the light in any way.
That doesn’t sound right to me. It should be like any other remote switch plug on any other remote-switch-capable device, and have a barely-audible, yet distinctly tactile “click” upon insertion indicating that it’s in its port correctly.
It’s not meant to be like those electrical sockets in the wall where there’s no resistance when you stick a plug in. There should be resistance upon insertion and upon extraction. If there is not, either the plug on the remote switch is assed up, or the port on the light is assed up, and you need to figure out which.
I have the remote switch on a TLR2s that is currently on my old Bushmaster though is likely going to be sold soon to fund a Scout light for my upcoming BCM build. I have had it for a bout a year, ~1000 rounds down range with it mounted and haven’t had an issue with it, and have never seen it walk out or move during recoil and have found it to be very tight in the switch. I do have the wire going to my rail zip tied down so it can’t move and catch on anything. I do like where if the switch does go down that I still have the little flip switch that I can actuate though.
I’m very to to the idea of weapon mounted lights and so didn’t know what to expect from the behavior of the switch. I don’t recall it if clicked in or not.
I’ll check it out next I can, hopefully it’s working right but if not I have an idea of what I’m looking for.
I definately think going without remote is best. Just one more thing to fail. I’ve actually got my TLR-1 set up at the very end of the rail. When I wrap my hand around the foregrip, the switch is right there for my middle finger.