You just can’t compare a quality two stage trigger to a match type single stage. If you expect the SSA to feel like a 2# trigger on a bolt gun you’ll be disappointed. But the 2 stage gives you far more control in dynamic shooting, where a 2# single stage might cause ND’s without a very educated trigger finger.
I don’t have a SSA yet, but I do have an SSF in my RR Colt. The trigger control is simply magnificent. Compared to the factory Colt trigger which came in at a finger pad numbing 14#, well, there is no comparison. With a 14.5" middie I can literally tickle off single shots in full auto. Even on an overgassed 11.5" upper (H2 and H3 buffers on order) controlled pairs are on command, mag after mag. If I literally think a round count, it happens. Want two shots? Two get sent. Want three? Three sent. Four? repeat as necessary. it’s the closest thing to a smart trigger I’ve ever felt. I should point out that the SSF feels like a traditional 2 stage in SA and a firm but responsive single stage on auto.
I can only imagine that what I’m feeling in FA lends itself to excellent control in SA. Compared to my AR with a JARD set up as a 3.5# 2 stage, it feels much firmer and more predictable, and I thought the JARD was pretty good before. Once I have $$$ to dedicate to the AR, I plan to ditch the JARD and replace it with a SSA.
+1. I used mine in a Viking Tactics Night Fighter class last November and it did not hiccup in the least. Is it as nice as a match trigger like my Chip McCormick drop-in? Nope, not in the least.
Is it supposed to be? Hell no!! The SSA is supposed to be a RELIABLE combat/duty trigger and not a match trigger. If you wanted a tack-driving trigger system you should have gotten the Geissele DMR 2-stage adjustable match trigger and not the SSA.
Can’t discern between a 6-8lb single stage, and a 4lb double stage? Really?
Well I wouldn’t expect a 15y/o with a learners permit to notice any tactile differences between vehicle dynamics either… You would have been better served spending $$ on rds and experience.
LMT< Thanks for your observations. Let us know if your impressions change once you get some rounds through it. Admittedly the only two stage triggers I have played with were on M-1 Garand’s, M-14’s and M-1A’s. Most of my time is with a single stage trigger.
Dano, I purposely set the trigger pull on my duty 1911 to 6 lbs because most of the department was carrying Glock’s and much of the agency’s hierarchy was against 1911’s. Their argument was the “hair trigger” on a 1911. My trigger was prepped correctly and broke like a “glass rod.” Most of the command staff and others who shot it thought the trigger was below 4 lbs. I took out the weights and proved it was 6 lbs. Long story to tell you it is not always the weight of the pull, but how smooth or gritty the trigger is before it breaks. The amount of sear engagement (distance the trigger has to travel before it releases the hammer) has a lot to do with it also.
The point is weight is not the whole issue in trigger pull. In this case it is also how the trigger feels and I believe that is what the OP was referring to. At least that is the way I took it.
I hope the neighborhood kids stay off your lawn. I can discern the difference quite easily. I’m just not sure it’s a $170.00 (plus shipping) improvement.
I’ll break it in with several hundred rounds and then reinstall my USGI trigger. Sometimes you don’t appreciate upgrades until you’re downgraded to your previous gear.
" I guess I just expected more of a difference between it and my USGI LMT trigger. "
this is what stuck me as odd…
The tactile feel of the two triggers couldn’t be more different. Some accomplished shooters will banter the difference and utility of single stage vs double… till you want to spray them with OC and then point them toward an electified fence.
For me (everyone has an evac hole and an opinion) a single is faster for dynamic, with a faster… more tactile reset. However having used a long rifle… a double stage is nicer for sync’ing shots, waiting for break in wind, long movers, etc. Shot’s that aren’t timed in .0x seconds…
I have 30K+ on a Geissle FA trigger, in six or seven different lowers, and like the single auto pull, and double semi… it has proven to be MUCH more reliable than competing products.
Good news is, you should be able to hock it fast if you don’t like it.
The SSA is designed to break like a carrot. The DMR Hi-Speed breaks like an icicle.
If a shooter wants a sharp, light match trigger the Hi-Speed series is the way to go. The SSA is a combat trigger…if it was set up like a DMR it would be uncontrollable to many shooters in stress shooting situations because fine motor control decreases as stress level increases.
A good rule of thumb when selecting between the two triggers is to look at the power of the optic on the rifle. 4x and over: use the DMR. 4x and below: strongly consider the SSA unless the shooter wants the ability to tune the trigger to his liking.
If you can’t tell much of a difference between the GI trigger I wonder if something is wrong. Please take a moment to call us so we can go over the installation and trigger operation as the difference should be like night and day.
Dude there is a lot of hate coming from you. The fact is you should put grease on the trigger and hammer pins on all AR triggers. If you are not your trigger pull will be a lot worse. And the SSA is just fine as a combat trigger and much better than a stock GI trigger because it allows you to hit much better under stress. I have tried lots of different triggers and have found the Geissele to be the best.
pat
Excuse me? “Hate”? Calm down, I didn’t insult your mother, I simply asked a question about a post I found a little strange. I completely understand having to lube a trigger, but that wasn’t what Jakal said. He stated, quote, “make sure you get that red aviation grease on the correct points”. I took that to mean you needed to use a somewhat specific grease for this trigger. If I misunderstood Jakal’s post, then I apologize, but I’m not sure why your jumping on my ass about it…
Not a big deal, apparently I misunderstood Jakal’s post. I wasn’t suggesting it shouldn’t need lubed, I was suggesting that a “combat trigger” shouldn’t need a specific type of grease, which is what I took Jakal’s post to mean. Again, I apparently misread/misunderstood his point and I apologize.
I am not upset and don’t need to calm down. Your comments just stuck me as extremely uniformed and you seemed like you were trying to convince yourself that the SSA was a poor trigger. I know accountants are cheap but if you want good stuff it costs money. If you do a search on the net regarding Geisselle triggers the comments are almost always positive. In fact this is the first negative thread I have seen started.
Pat
When my SSA arrived, it had an instruction sheet, the trigger group and a plastic vial of red aviation grease. There are better greases for different applications.
I called Mr. Geissele and spoke with him for about 20 minutes. The red aviation grease has certain properties that were determined better suited for this type of applicaton, via all the field testing that was done. But the instruction sheet also states you can use other types. I am not as smart as Mr. Geissele when it comes to triggers, so I took his recommendation and did what the instructions said.
If you want more than that, call the gentleman yourself.
As stated this is a non-adjustable 2 stage COMBAT trigger. Not an adjustable 2 stage match trigger which is way different. I personally wouldn’t want a match trigger on a self defense AR. Too damn touchy. Now if I was shooting bench-rest, comp matches or varmit hunting, then yes, I would want a national match trigger.
All triggers do need to be lubed, unless they are a self-contained unit.
This was another post a little further down…it has the instructions in the post.
I thought it was nice that Geissele included the red av grease with the SSA. A little goes a long way so you can dope up several of your triggers with it. Love mine and it has been/will continue to be well worth the cost of admission.
