Not long ago I found a big secret hiding out in West Texas. Towering over Texas at 8750’, Guadalupe Peak offers a very rewarding view of the West Texas landscape. I know, I know…it ain’t the majestic Rocky Mountains, but I never knew that Texas even had such elevation other than Emory Peak in Big Bend at just 7832’. I spent months in West Texas/SE New Mexico before I even noticed something off in the distance. It was a few more months before I took the time to look at a map to figure out what that formation was poking out on the horizon.
It doesn’t look like much from here, but it takes about 2 hours to get over there to Guadalupe Mountains National Park. I’ve hiked the peak a few times now, and it is definitely a strenuous hike but the views are rewarding. It is worth checking out for anyone looking to get outdoors in West Texas.
I have hiked Guadalupe Peak a few times now, but the park really has a lot more to offer. I’ve only hiked about 10% of the trails, so it is time to move on to the others. The only bad part of hiking GP national park is that you have to carry all of your water. You aren’t allowed to use the water even when it is there. Today, it was 12.5 lbs of water starting out for me. It was all gone by the time I was done, but that was half of my load. That makes back country camping in the summer difficult to say the least.
Great photos.
A coworker is an avid outdoorsman and he’s shown me his photos of his hikes to Guadalupe Peak. They made me want to plan my trip. Your pics? They pushed me one step closer to getting that done. So is that actually a postal stop at one point?
Water is definitely the big consideration, and time of year. Would certainly be tough in the summer. People can get themselves in real trouble very quickly w/o cell service.
Guadalupe Peak Wikipedia Page Guadalupe Mountains National Park El Capitan is the actual landmark that was used by travelers and the Pony Express riders and stagecoach drivers of the Butterfield Overland Mail, which was commemorated by American Airlines with the monument on top of Guadalupe Peak. I’m not exactly sure how far away from the mountains I am in that first pic, but it takes me two hours to get there. El Capitan is the flat face on the left, and its recognition is undeniable.
I first visited the park in March and then on Easter, and the weather was awesome then. It is almost too damn hot now, but I will still go. I encounter more people than I expected, but it still isn’t crowded.
It has been on my list to do for a while now. I want to do it in the cooler months, but the weather typically sucks out there then - really high winds.
The pics were taken with this Nikon Coolpix camera. I am no photographer by any stretch of the imagination, but I think it takes pretty good pictures. I was looking for a camera that was compact, at least water-resistant, and could take some spills. It has performed well so far, but it hasn’t been abused or gotten wet yet.
The weather in March was just about perfect. It was windy, but not hot. I am looking forward to the fall weather, and hope to be able to use one of the backcountry campsites. So far, I have had to plan around a time when I am working nights out there. I have to work 12 hr, drive a total of 4 hr, hike for 6 hr, and then work another 12 hr. It makes the hike even more challenging for me physically, but the views are somewhat energizing for me. That last 12 hr of work isn’t very enjoyable.
Recently, I had the opportunity to do an overnight hike into the Guadalupe Mountains. It didn’t quite go as planned, but it was enjoyable nonetheless. I chose the Pine Top campground as my camping destination. The route began from the Pine Springs campground. I then took the Frijole Trail to Bear Canyon Trail and on to the top. From there I took a left on the Bowl Trail, and followed it to the Pine Top campground. The plan for the second day was to catch the sunrise at Hunters Peak, and then take the Bowl Trail to Juniper Trail to Tejas Trail, and then back to the campground to break camp and then head back to the trail head via the Tejas Trail. I had to return to work early, so the second day consisted of breaking camp and taking the Tejas Trail back to the trail head.
All water must be carried when hiking in the Guadalupe Mountains NP. So, for this planned two day hike I was carrying 10L of water to cover my drinking and cooking needs. 10L of water is roughly 22 lb., and this along with my gear added up to around 40 lb. I was carrying this in a Kelty MAP 3500, and it didn’t carry well to say the least. I have since ordered another pack just for this type of trip.
The foothills trails are fairly uneventful terrain-wise. I always see a ton of lizards, but I encountered a couple snakes this time. I caught a Rattlesnake trying to cross the trail first, but it retreated back into the brush and gave me some warning rattles. The other one was non-poisonous, so I just stepped over him and kept going.
You can see the Northeastern face of El Capitan here.
You really start to gain some elevation once you get onto the Bear Canyon Trail.
Traveling up the canyon, I encountered this great little spot to stop and eat some lunch.
The view, while eating my ramens and jerky.
This part of the trail is pretty nice, sort of like an oasis.
Looking ahead, the top part of the trail is steep, open, and hot. Pretty much sucked with my 40 some odd lb. pack, so I didn’t stop for any pics.
Finally, I reached the ridge and finally got some breeze and easier going.
A coniferous forest of pine and Douglas fir covers the high ridges and canyons, and is a much welcomed change in scenery.
Making it around to the southern ridge yields a northern view of El Capitan and Gaudalupe Peak.
A view of the switchbacks of the Guadalupe Peak Trail.
Hunters Peak from the Pine Top campground.
I chose to carry a hammock hoping to stay dry and be more comfortable. Well, the rain barely grazed me. Temps were in the low 60’s so my feet were cold, and I didn’t sleep well. I had forgotten my woobie at home, so I had a little fleece blanket I picked up from Walmart. It was better than nothing, but was just too small. Oh well, I survived.
I tried some new freeze dried food for the first time, and I highly recommend it for appearance and flavor.
I didn’t have a windscreen, so I made one out of aluminum foil before traveling out to the park. It was definitely needed, and actually performed pretty well. I ordered some titanium foil so I can make a better windscreen.
I didn’t take any pics on the way down the Tejas Trail back to the trail head. I got called back to work, so I had to make tracks. All in all, it was a good trip even though it didn’t go as planned. I’m definitely starting to trim down the quantity and weight of my gear. I’m not going super-crazy UL, but I did order a lightweight pack and digital scale so I can start making some improvements.
I didn’t encounter a single person on this hike, and I loved it. I look forward to future overnighters in this part of the park.
TXBK, I’m rereading your stuff here as I’m scrambling to put together a last minute vacation to camp & hike at either Big Bend or Guadalupe Mtns. I am taking 9 days off from work and I badly need to get away from everybody human. We’ll it’ll be 6 free days after a family reunion before I can actually head out. But…
I’m starting from scratch as far as gear/equipment goes since the divorce last year. Not a bad thing as I can get some nice new stuff but there’s a ton of things out there to choose from. Sounds from your recent trips to Guadalupe Mtns lightweight gear will definitely matter, especially carrying all your own water. I will be camping for a couple nights.
ETA: after some research, I’m leaning at camping at Pine Springs camp ground. The trails I’d like to do start off at this head anyway. Plus staying at a base camp will make the rest of this planning easier.
I’ve got my old CoolPix from a thousand years ago…ok not really a thousand, more like 2005…but it takes the best photos I’ve ever snapped. It’ll go along with me.
Handheld GPS. I use to run around with just a little yellow Garmin gps but I left it behind. For this upcoming trip is necessary?
What’s your thoughts on the security of your vehicle where ever you leave it parked? Ever had any trouble?
And last but not least, personal defense? I haven’t refreshed my knowledge on firearms/weapons in a National Park. But being a single female, I travel prepared.
ETA: read up - I’m informed. No carry into fed bldgs w personnel, obey signs and I’m good to go, of course following fed, state and local laws.
Anyway, just reviewing your stuff getting planned. Thoughts you might have that would save me some heartache are greatly appreciated. This is my first solo trip.
Good luck on your trip, Shorts. I have hiked GMNP but have not yet done the peak. I have it planned for later in October as it is just still too dang hot right now. I highly recommend hiking McKittrick Canyon as once it get cooler it will have great Fall color - Aspens and Maples
Also, when you are at GMNP, you will be very close to Carlsbad Caverns NP. If you haven’t done it before, hiking down into the cave from the natural entrance is a great experience. There are also several day hiking trails within the park on the surface - the North Slaughter Canyon, Rattlesnake Canyon and Yucca Canyon trails.
BTW, AIUI, it is legal to carry concealed in the NPs with the appropriate state permit, but it is not legal to discharge your firearm. Go figure! I just carry bear spray for the bears and cats.
Hey thanks!
I was inspired do this peak by a coworker a while back. Since then, circumstances and opportunities have shouted loud and clear “Why not go now?”
I’ll look up those trails you mentioned. I’m getting pretty excited already. Need to start getting the truck read too.
If the goal is to get away from humans, Guadalupe Peak National Park is a pretty good choice. I hear that Big Bend is crowded, but I haven’t been there. I haven’t ever camped at the Pine Springs campground, but I have used the trail head there every time that I have hiked there. There have always been some campers there, but it doesn’t seem like it was full or crowded. I have only camped in the park once. I used the Pine Top back country campground. On the Guadalupe Peak trail, normally I encounter 5-15 people and it is usually on the way down. The only time that I didn’t encounter a single person was when I traveled the Foothills trail to Bear Canyon trail to Bowl trail to Tejas trail back to trail head.
I access the park via Carlsbad, and I make sure to be full of fuel from that point. I also make sure to have all of my water, food, and other supplies by that point. However, you can get water at Pine Springs.
A good ~30 liter pack is perfect for my day hikes. I either use a Kelty Map 3500 or Arc’teryx Khard 30. I bought my wife an Osprey Kestral 32, and she loves it. It has me wanting an Osprey pack, as well. I usually carry a 3 liter hydration bladder, and at least two 32 oz. Nalgene bottles completely full. A trekking pole should be really useful on the trails, going up and coming down. I always carry rain gear everywhere that I hike. You never really know when a thunderstorm may pop up in the Guadalupe Mountains, and lightning is also a possibility. You don’t really need a whole lot more than that, but I do keep a small kit of basic survival items on my person with: survival blanket, compass, signal mirror, hi-viz signal panel, whistle, lighter, etc.
Quality shoes and socks, as well as an extra pair of socks are a must of me. Quality clothing to protect you from the sun is also very important. I hate sunscreen, so I wear long sleeves, pants, a boonie hat. I really use my trekking poles so gloves are also good for me.
I don’t think a GPS is essential equipment in the Guadalupe Mountains. I found a laminated map online that I will carry in the future, but I was just using the maps that I picked up from the visitor station. The trails are defined and clearly marked, so there shouldn’t be an issue of getting lost. I always carry a compass, and my phone has GPS if the need ever arose.
I leave my CCW in the truck when I go into the visitor center to pay for permits, and carry it in my backpack when I am hiking. Wild animals with either two or four legs are always a possibility on the trail as well as anywhere else. If I am in fear for my life, I will deal with the possible consequences of discharging my firearm later. Encountering a black bear or mountain lion is rare, but there is a small possibility. I haven’t ever had any trouble leaving my vehicle at Pine Springs, and I don’t expect to ever have any trouble. I don’t ever worry about, but I do take the same precautions as I do anywhere else. I keep valuables covered and out of sight, and keep everything locked up.
When are you going to be heading out there? I am going to try to get out there in a couple weeks.
It’s a good idea to take along a plastic or ziploc bag for your trash, and TP is one of those items that could decrease your enjoyment, if you need and don’t have. A headlamp is good to have, and don’t forget at least a small FAK. Most of the items in my kit are there in case I encounter someone else that needs help. There is a set of hanging scales at the trail head, and I never think about using them until I return, and by that time I am just ready to get to the truck. I would like to know how much my last load weighed, because it wasn’t very pleasant. A quality folding knife always goes along.
