I could not be happier with my X300, it blows away my X200!
Rob, you can use the “U” on both the Glock and the AR but there will be fore and aft movement on the rail since the “bar” on the “U” mount is not as thick in width as the “P” mount. So it works, just not perfect. Would make do in a pinch.
For home defense or SWAT stuff, it is my opinion that the X300 is the best combination of light and weight currently available. To the poster who asked why not a TLR-1 as compared to an X-300, quite simply, it’s because the TLR-1 will most likely fail you when you need it and the X-300 will not.
After playing with one for the last week, I am sold.
As to the XT07 switch - forget about it. SF seems to come out with a few cool things you can’t actually get. I reference DG switches, etc. Yeah, SF sucks in this regard. Get over it’ buy an X-300 and learn to activate it with the stock switch - it’s that good.
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I surfed through the Glock picture thread and noticed that some of you are leaving the battery compartment retaining pin off on your X200/300.
I have a problem with mine as it (due to being a little loose and “standing up”) sometimes interferes with re-holstering in a Raven concealment holster. I pushed the gun in with some force and the pin shaved some material off the holster and the light itself. I have duck taped the pin in the “down position” now and might leave it completely off. Have you encountered this problem too?
So, is the DG-18 still the only option we 1911 users have for these lights? The SL18 isnt out in full force yet?
X300 is the way to go…
I just got the x300 and dg switch for my glock 22 and it is causing malfunctions. I have over 4,400 rounds through my duty glock 22 and never had a malfunction till I put the light on the gun. 6 fail to feeds in 78 rounds - ball and gold dot HP’s. There is a warning about malfunctions with the light on glocks right in the users manual.
The manual references the light keeping the frame from flexing naturally under recoil, limp wristing, older mag springs with less coils and different ammuntion. Glock buyers beware. I also know several agencies who had too ditch their lights and holsters for the same reason. Glock and surefire were unable to give them a fix.
In my experience, this isn’t so much of a Glock problem, but a .40 cal Glock problem. I’ve had an X200 or X300 on my Glock 17 for years now and never had a problem. I also never had a problem with the Glock 21 and a weapon mounted light.
I should have added that I have heard the same thing.
It is definitely not the lights fault. Glock .40s are notorious for having failures with lights mounted that the 9s just don’t have.
Is this a frame issue or an issue with the caliber itself? I have a buddy who converted his 23 to 9mm and wants a light, is this going to still be an issue?
As far as I can tell nobody is reporting problems with the 9mm Glocks and lights. So it is a frame problem coupled with the caliber. I hope that answers your question, your buddy should be fine. There is a couple of current running threads on this issue on the 10-8 forum that you might want to read.
I’m loving mine and so is my G 21 SF. I had a X200B however I have seen the light.
I got a X300 today and I haven’t used it in the dark yet but at first glance I like the beam of the 200B better indoors. Will play with them both in the dark shortly.
Ok, as usual I may end up being the lone dissenting voice as I am not going to go nuts over the newest latest and greatest thing introduced. After playing with the 200B and the 300 in the house I really prefer my old 200B for the wide angle throw it has. Do I think the 300 is brighter? Maybe a little but not much. One thing I did notice is the 300 has more of an incandesant yellow color to the beam which could possibly make it much better outside in less than crystal clear conditions.
??? I don’t recall anyone else mentioning the different color beams between the 2, maybe I need to see if the new batteries need changing already.
I just received my second X300 today, I’ve got one for my bedside XD and this one for my carbine; and there is a very, very noticeable difference in color between the new and the old. This new one seems very yellow in color with respect to my first X300 (which is a very pure white), and even compared to my TLR-1. I’ll get some pics up in the morning…does anyone else have any input on this topic?
WOW, I’m not nuts afterall.
These aren’t the greatest pics in the world, sorry I’m not a photographer…but I think you can still see a difference:
From Left to Right: New X300, Old X300, Streamlight TLR-1 (only in 2nd picture) Lights are shining on to a white wall approx. 4’ away
Any evidence or experience of TLR-1 failures?
I mean no disrespect. I’m just trying to decide between buying one X300 vs. two TLR-1’s. I’d rather have one working X300 vs. two battery storage devices.
Out of quite a few, I have only seen one TLR1 break. The odds are better than the M3 (which I also had decent luck with, FWIW) because it is built a lot more sturdy and doesn’t use the chincy little buld the M3 series did. They honored the warranty of the broken one also and sent a replacement ASAP. They seem to work well, except I don’t like their mount too much and would worry about it working loose.
I stick to Surefire lights as a personal preference for my own guns.