waiting…
As promised:
I’m fortunate to get the chance to play with another one of Jason’s awesome mounts. As a lot of you know I run a KAC SR-25. I’ve found the SR-25 really shines in a few things, throwing a big round down range is one, the other is the ability to shake loose most mounts. I’ve been running my lights offset for a few months now, but with mixed results in my previous setup. In fact after a 40 round string this past weekend I found the previous mount starting to have some play.
Jason’s design fully capitalizes on the design of the 1913 rail design, and not only clamps over the rail but fully secures with the cross lugs as the original 1913 spec called for. Obvious engineering? Of course, but rock solid and well executed.
As you can see the Gear Sector mount brings the Surefire Scout within 3-4 milimeters of the URX flipup front sight, so it’s really tucked in to the rail. This keeps the light close to the axis of the bore, and makes it extremely easy to keep positive and consistant grips when going support (or reaction side depending on the school of thought).
As with all GS mounts the machine work is top notch. Beefy where needed, but economical and low profile everywhere else. I mounted the light after applying the recommended thread locker. Then proceeded to vigorously tug on the light and mount. No movement at all.
For those of us running PEQ-15s I can say happily that the Gear Sector offset mount clears the Surefire Scout with minimal splash from the visible laser. This means that the IR designator is up and to the left, completely clearing the light and creating zero splash on the gun itself.
I will be putting the light through it’s paces this weekend on a few rapid fire strings. As per my normal SOPs I mark anything that can possibly come loose with a witness mark. If things are nice and strong, everything in its place, which I have no doubt it will be. Then Jason has knocked another one out of the park.
This is something Im thinking of giving a try. Sick of waiting for LaRue to come around and make one.
I am all in on this as soon as it hits the streets. Looks very nice.
My Surefire M300A Scout showed up today. I wasted no time yanking the factory mount and popping our GS-3120 on there. I tossed the the assembly on my scale and low and behold…
3.9ozs!
Both SBR’s will be sporting this setup shortly. 
Looks good. The thing I am wondering about is interfering with the KAC URX front sight button. I run the light on the 9 rail. Right now I am running inline LT mounts for my Scouts about 8 rail spaces short of the front end. If its a little harder I wouldn’t mind but if it blocks complete access thats another thing…
If you’re not running anything on the top of the rail consider using the SR07 surefire pad and then running the light on the right side, forward.
This how Im currently running things.
Then flop them to the right, and run a pressure pad on the top of the rail. It also keeps the left slide slick when transitioning to your sidearm.
It would have to be something Id have to spend quite a bit of time getting used to. I shot with RetreatHell, and he had his setup that that. I was just trying to get the light up higher, and more towards the centerline.
I’d say be less concerned with the position of the light by itself, and more about how it stays out of your way so you can switch shoulders, and retain a positive and consistent grip.
That to me is the huge payoff for the inline mounts, because frankly tucking the light in tight isn’t really all that helpful by itself, it doesn’t really do anything specifically for the light. What it does however is keep the sides generally slick and free so that your grip can be uniform regardless of weapon or reaction side shooting.
Circling back, I’d say top mounted pad and right side mount will work the best for you 98 percent of the time.
Lot of merit to this advice > It also keeps the left slide slick when transitioning to your sidearm.
I’m just leery of tape switches, and prefer the light actuation method to be simple but not just a bump on the wrong piece of gear causing the light to go on. The press button end cap is pretty well guarded, and more guarded than an open tape switch sitting on the top of the rail where any bump on the top is going to activate the light.
If you’re not willing to TRY the top pressure pad then you’re going to be forced to put the light in a place that will make getting to your irons hard. No way around that.
I would also say that you’re more inclined with the push caps to accidentally click them and leave them ON under stress, whereas the pressure pad turns off the light immediately on release. I’ve figured this out the hard way from running a few E2Ds.
I didn’t say I wasn’t willing to try it just that Im leary of them based on past experience with AD of light.
With the inline LT mount there is no issue with deploying the URX buis. I was just wondering if this GS mount would put the light in a position where its impossible.
With the wanting to get the light higher and more centerline it has to do with things like shooting around corners and over obstacles. IMO a 12’ light would be best but there isn’t anything on the market would fit the role with a relatively secure push button, compact, etc.
Ive run with a X300 in a LT mount on the 12 rail, and I think the positioning is perfect but its too easy to activate the light similar to a pressure pad. Any bump on the activation method (unprotected) means the light goes on.
I didn’t say I wasn’t willing to try it just that Im leary of them based on past experience with AD of light.
You’d be amazed at how much pressure is required to activate the light using the SR07 rail mounted switch from Surefire. You aren’t going to have a ND unless you manage to ram the top of your rail into something very hard. Its stiff enough that I actually ride my support thumb “on” the activation pad without issue.
I have been running the SR07 switches on the 12 o’clock rail for quite some time now and can’t imagine going back to tail cap activation.
This allows me to run my light on the outboard side leaving the inboard side clean and smooth. Running your light on the outboard side has several advantages. You are less likely to get your weapon caught up on your gear, its easier to cut corners without ramming the light into a doorjam, transitioning is much smoother to name a few.
Understood. The only experience I have with that particular switch is on someone else’s gun for one day, and not at night running the light.
It just sounds like past experiences with older pressure pads is putting you off trying the newer ones, and I can respect that, however I do think the pad method is the way to go.
As Jason said, they require a lot of force, and if you look at the SR07 it actually is built so that even if you were to lay the gun down on it’s top (with no optic) the light wouldn’t deploy. It requires a very positive PRESS to engage. I’m running a pressure pad to handle 2 systems on my rifles, Light, and Laser, and I do not have this problem and I’ve used my SBR and SR15 while moving and shooting inside a vehicle, and crawling through tunnels, in matches and at classes, and never had a problem.
Is it possible to have an ND of your white light? Sure I guess anything is possible. But running a push cap on the left side is going to hose you when trying to operate your white light while working your reaction side. The 12 o’clock pad creates a “control agnostic” situation where, especially coupled with ambi controls on the rifle, you’ve got essentially the same grip regardless of shoulder.
Anyone think this mount will fit next to an MBUS mounted on a DD lite 12.0 rail? I already shaved off the wing on one side of the site so it won’t hit the thumbscrew mount on my M300A.
as it is right now, the mount will fit only behind the clamp portion of the MBUS, not alongside it. the wing on one side has to be shaved off, like you did, and maybe some of the remaining wing ‘stub’ portion that extends down when you press the other side to deploy the sight.