Stop letting the wind win...

There are plenty of thorough resources out there that deal with beating the wind, so my goal here is not to provide a comprehensive wind doping guide. Rather, I want to address one specific issue that came up recently at my local range. That issue is assigning Wind Values.

Many shooters have memorized or have a quick wind reference guide, either derived from empirical data or software. It’s usually based off of distance and wind in MPH increments. There are different methodologies out there, but a common practice looks something like this:

  1. Determine wind speed in MPH
  2. Determine wind direction.
  3. Using a “Wind Value” guide, get an “Adjusted MPH” (IE…14MPH @ Half Value = 7 MPH)
  4. Reference that “Adjusted MPH” to the correct distance on your chart.
  5. Adjust or hold off, and fire.

The Wind Value part is critical, because all the other information is given to you. Aside from determining wind speed, it is the only variable that you must figure out in real time, on location. Everything else is given to you in your data. IE, you have it written down that X MPH wind requires Y amount of adjustment at Z distance.

I’ll start by saying that the traditional clock method is a little bit screwed up. It’s good for getting close, but if your goal is to expend one round and hit one target it is often not good enough. As precision shooters, we should endeavor to eliminate as many variables as possible. While time is often a factor, a little “tactical patience”…taking a few extra moments to set up the shot can pay dividends.

So let’s look at the wind value clock, and why it’s incomplete:

Here is a better way to assign wind values:

MPH X C = adjusted MPH

If wind direction is 90 degrees from sightline C = 1.0
If wind direction is 65 degrees from sightline C = .9
If wind direction is 45 degrees from sightline C = .75
If wind direction is 30 degrees from sightline C = .5
If wind direction is 15 degrees from sightline C = .25
If wind direction is 0 degrees from sightline C = 0

The clock ignores 3/4 and 1/4 values. It can be a little hard to get this precise without measuring devices, but you can do it with practice.

So let’s run a random scenario and see how real the problem is. Most of the time, shooters will call a 1:30’ish wind half value.

Let’s say you’re shooting a MK12 with MK262 at a 600M target. Half of 14MPH is 7MPH, and your reference tells you that this shot requires 1.8 MILS of adjustment, or around 42 inches.

Now, try using 3/4 Value. At ~10 MPH you get 2.6 MILS of adjustment, for 60.3 inches.

This is a significant difference. Let’s now look at the actual answer and see what method got you closer. Plugging the actual environment into a ballistic program (in this case “Shooter,” which I have trued and verified), and by this I mean actually inputting 14MPH and 45 degrees into the program rather than a wind value based on an adjusted MPH…surprise surprise we get exactly 2.6 MILS. In this scenario, the clock method leads to an 18’’ miss, or roughly the width between the shoulders. No-go.

So, the key takeaway here is that if you use a quick reference guide like I described up top for wind, make sure that you do your part and accurately determine value, so that you can reference the correct wind speed and make a first shot hit.

Hopefully this helps somebody.

How did I not notice this posted months ago? Thanks a0cake.

Just to keep the clock face:
3:00, 9:00 C=1
2:30, 3:30, 8:30, 9:30 C=.9
1:30, 4:30, 7:30, 10:30 C=.75 (3/4)
1:00, 5:00, 7:00, 11:00 C=.5 (1/2)
0:30, 5:50, 6:30, 11:30 C=.25 (1/4)
12:00, 6:00 C=0

No problem. Apparently nobody gave a shit in February…I guess everyone was too busy being cold to go shooting. :smiley:

I don’t know about anyone else, but that seems way more confusing than degrees. Why memorize which specific “times” correspond to degrees (there will be 4 for each value besides direct front and rear), when you could just use a single set of “degrees” that work for either orientation (left or right)? The clock numbers are superfluous.

This seems way simpler than all the time mumbo-jumbo:

If wind direction is 90 degrees from sightline C = 1.0
If wind direction is 65 degrees from sightline C = .9
If wind direction is 45 degrees from sightline C = .75
If wind direction is 30 degrees from sightline C = .5
If wind direction is 15 degrees from sightline C = .25
If wind direction is 0 degrees from sightline C = 0

I figure I’ll tack on an additional tidbit here, since this is a “wind” thread.


I want to share an unorthodox method of beating the wind. This method is useful when you have an extremely limited amount of time to make a shot. The method also requires that you have a MIL-DOT reticle. It is not guaranteed to give you first round hits every time, although it will most of the time. It is not a complete substitute for an actual wind dope chart or memorized solutions. What it is, is an extremely fast way of getting on target to within “minute of man.” without referencing anything on paper.

It is an extremely simple pattern once you wrap your head around it. With a little bit of practice you can instantaneously know how far you need to hold-off to hit your target at any range, with any weapons system…given you know the Ballistic Coefficient of your round. It is a tool to keep in your box, not the solution to all your wind problems. It’s particularly useful for those who transition between various weapons systems often, as it takes no additional memorization or thought process to use the formula with different calibers.

Disclaimer over, here it is.


The method is called “shooting the windows.” First, determine the BC of your projectile. In the first scenario, let’s say you’re using M118LR. The BC for M118LR is listed at 0.496. Round DOWN to the nearest tenth. This leaves you with a window of “4”

This means that you will be using “windows” of 4 MPH, 8 MPH, 12, MPH, and 16 MPH winds, and so forth.

I will now make a chart to illustrate how to do this, and then follow up with an explanation. When utilizing the method, you do NOT need to reference the chart, once you figure out how it works. With practice the answer will pop into your head instantly.

The vertical column represents range, and the horizontal column wind speed. The data represents hold-off in MILS.

----------4 MPH------- 8 MPH------- 12MPH

100M-----.1-----------.2-------------.3

200M-----.2-----------.4-------------.6

300M-----.3---------- .6------------- .9

400M-----.4-----------.8-------------1.2

500M-----.5----------1.0------------1.5

600M-----.6----------1.2------------1.8

700M-----.7---------- 1.4----------- 2.1

800M-----.8-----------1.6-----------2.4

Notice the patterns? If not, study the chart for a minute. You’ll realize that you can instantly find solutions in your head because the pattern is so simple.

If your wind speed is in between one of the windows, just add .1 for every one MPH over the window wind speed. So if it’s a 6 MPH wind at 600M, add .2 to .6 and you get .8 MILS of hold off. Make sense? Since you’re at 600M, you’re using the 600M row and the 4 MPH windspeed. But the actual windspeed is 6. So just add .1 for every MPH over 4. Once you get to 8 MPH, you’re at your next “window” and no longer need to add anything.

It might sound complicated but it’s not. Just think about it for a bit and the answers will come to you instantly.

It will also work for high BC 5.56 using 3 MPH windows and low BC 5.56 using windows of 2.

--------3MPH---------6MPH--------9MPH

100M----.1------------.2----------- .3

200M-----.2 --------- .4----------- .6

ETC…

If anyone needs further explanation let me know.

Good info I never saw this, glad you took the time to do it.