I have several SOCOM FLASH HIDERS / SUPPRESSOR ADAPTERS. I brought them to my local gun shop who just became a Class 3 dealer. They put the SF3P on three guns for me. Two are 5.56 uppers
One is on my 300 AAC.
They used red loctite instead of the included and recommended Rockset. I am not comfortable with the red loctite. Am I over thinking this? SF must have their reasons for telling us to use the Rockset and including it with the mount. I think AAC does too. If it was not being used as a suppressor mount I would not be worried.
Rockset is heat stable at very high temperatures but can be overcome with a reasonable amount of torque. Red Loctite is very heat stable and will likely be very hard to remove. For this reason, Rockset is recommended by every muzzle device manufacturer that I’ve seen.
Red is a no no. I would heat it up and remove. Red is for never taking anything apart ever again. It will cost you a barrel and mount.
Clean everything up and put on the rockset.
Rockset will not soften with heat like Locktite will. Rockset does not have the shear strength that the Locktites do though and is water soluable where as Locktite is not. Do not use Locktite to install the mounts since it will soften when hot and can come loose resulting in a baffle strike. Rockset is more stable at higher temps.
Thanks guys. I was concerned about it shooting loose and getting a baffle strike. I didn’t know it was easier to remove rockset. I will get this squared away next week.
Don’t get the wrong idea. Rockset is hard to get loose also. KAC puts their rifles together with it, and man do yo have to be careful when taking barrel nuts and Flash hiders off. Just the right amount of heat is your friend. I put brakes and castle nut/barrel nuts on with it. All rails and components(I use keymods) go together with blue LT. Just make sure everything is clean, apply, and then wipe the threads a bit. Flashiders get a bit more, but I still wipe the threads.
With the blue I put 1 drop on threads and then put that into a napkin and turn the head of the screw. This leaves a small amount just barely coating the threads and no mess. It should look like there is hardly any left on.
I did not think of this earlier, but you did not put any of these on yourself. I would suggest getting a reaction rod so you do not tweak anything. I have both the RR and the KAC version for working on mine. It is superior to any other block/vice method. All you need is a vice to hold the rod in. BUT remember to not let the upper fall off the rod when taking it out of the vice. Don’t ask me how I know this. Remove the upper, then the rod from the vice.
If you cannot afford or find one PM me and maybe we can work a deal on letting you borrow mine.
Nice looking Sticks bro. I just bought 4 cans myself, can’t wait to get them out of jail. They are my first ones.
Good to know stuff. I’m still waiting to get into the suppressor game. Never used Rockset before and the name is misleading. I had thought it stronger than red.
That’s misleading in a comparison to red. The key factor is that Rockset will hold to 2015 deg, and locktite will get soft and loosen. RED is for something you do not want to ever take back apart in your lifetime. I have a mechanic background and always used locktite, but when I learned about Rockset, it is a superior product. It will retain what it is holding to a greater degree. I believe its a ceramic glue.
It comes in between blue LT and red LT, and retains a better hold when heat is introduced. A KAC-SR15 is glued together with this stuff. No way any part of the gun will come loose. I replaced the Rockset in areas I stated when changing out parts on the gun ie rail, QD plate, BN because that is what knight’s does. But on the rail I use blue because I know I will want to change out mods to suit my needs. You have to disassemble the whole gun to change out a rail/QD plate on a legacy for a KM. My newer mod2 just received a mams finally, which I use rockset on. I have not touched any other part of the gun. Even when you heat up Rockset for removal there is a snap when the glue breaks, just heat up slowly, I have not dipped in water soak for release. I bet it took 50 lbs to break the flashhider off the gun. Thank God for them coming out with a rod like RR.
Remember we are working with Alum/steel here on guns. RED LT can/will send a gun to the grave or new receiver etc. Keep both around and let all your friends use your LT and Rockset so it does not have a chance to go bad.
So in a nutshell:
Rockset for flash hider/brake - since it is heat resistant. It will not mess up your timing if your can gets stuck and you twist too hard removing the can
Blue LT for all your accessories on the gun. Nothing like loosing a part/screw in the middle of a class. Place 1 drop then wipe screw on paper towel by turning it. It only takes a small amount of heat to loosen up. I have used fingernail polish in a bind, but I do not like it as much.
I can’t say how many times I have to let people use my allens at the range. A glued together gun is a happy gun.
I have always use blue for things like scopes. I have never used anything on a muzzle device, but I’ve yet to get into the suppressor game, so I’m never twisting on them. I’ve only pieced together 1 upper and the barrel nut has nothing on it. So far so good.
Alot depends on what you are working with. Different flashhiders and brakes use different methods. It’s either a crushwasher or shims,which will include the shim set to be timed. This is where Rockset comes into play. I only do the other parts because kac does. Barrel nuts do not really need it. And as you already know, applying LT takes a bit of sense, it goes a long way. Not a blob on part, tighten down, then wipe off excess. Any time you use the red and may want to take it apart it has a chance to gall the threads or twist the head off. I would cry if I did that to one of my guns. There is nothing on an AR that has to be farm boy tight when put on, well except a NSR rail.
Where blue may come lose, Rockset will not. Both are great, but Rockset excels with heat.
I just had to remove my SF flashhider that I secured with rockset - it was quite hard to losen, and im a powerlifter. Different loctites have different temperature ratings, even reds. The highest rated red is 500 degrees Fahrenheit, if I recall correctly. Perhaps thats enough, but i’d rather have better heat resistance having seen how strong rockset is at room temperature.
Did you use heat ? A heat gun will make the removal much easier. Room temp is not recommended. It’s supposed to be water soluble also, but I have not tried that.
Rockett is designed to work with heat. I’ve heard soaking in water is the way to go if it’s stubborn, never needed to use water though. I have used a propane torch to remove a muzzle device secured with red loctite, made it very easy.
I’ve used heat and Kroll oil to remove factory attached AAC flash hiders. Even with their removal tool and 24" breaker bar it was a PITA. After that I’ve used heat with great success.
FWIW 500 degrees is only around 45-55 shots of 5.56. I personally would remove and use rocksett.
Clyde Armory, I don’t have the mini. But my SOCOM762-RC Sounds hilariously loud with 300 blackout subs. My Octane 9mm and Saker 762 sound 10x better. I anxiously await a 300 SPS for my Surefire blackout needs.
Sorry, forgot to mention I had soaked it in water for 48 hours prior to removal. I suppose my point was, a flash hider secured with rockset appears to be plenty strong.
Red Loctite and similar can be overcome with heat. I have also had good luck with Bob Smith Industries Un-Cure which was recommended by someone here. Rocksett is not heat sensitive and is usually broken down by sticking the muzzle in boiling water for about 15-20 minutes and then throwing on the vise.
IG’s method definitely works for rocksett. Removed a flash hider today. It is kind of boring holding the muzzle in a pot of boiling water for 15 minutes, but it came off easily after I clamped it in a barrel vice.
I’ve tried soaking muzzles in water overnight a half dozen times and they have never come off as easy as today.
If it was an AR I would have put a bipod on the upper receiver rail, flipped it over and extended the legs, and let the barrel rest against the edge of the pot.
Unfortunately it was my bolt gun, and I didn’t feel like taking the scope off.
