Sling Primer

Tactical Gear Tactical Gear
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Too Much Time On My Hands: A Long Gun Sling Primer

Fighting carbines need slings. This is an axiom that has been taught us by decades of experience throughout the gamut of applications for the fighting carbine. Whether on HVT Grab missions in Khost or on patrol in suburban NoVa, you will want a sling on your carbine should you need to employ it. In addition to transitions to secondary weapons and any type of climbing or technical insertion, any of the millions of tasks that require “hands on” work will require you to securely retain and/or stow the weapon somewhere on your person. Given this necessity and the variety of slings available to you, your duty to determine the best choice for your probable application(s) and equip yourself as best as possible ought to become clear.

Here is some basic information on long gun slings and handy accessories for the beginner who just needs a pointer in the right direction. My apologies for the length. I included information I felt would be helpful. I will update this with any new information I receive that would also help. Please feel free to add your own informative comments and fill any gaps I have left, (I’m sure there are plenty). If you believe anything I have offered is not as objective as possible, again, feel free to suggest alternative opinions but always consider that you, too, are subjective and possibly overly defensive of what you bought. Keep in mind that we use slings for a benefit, but no benefit comes without a cost and simply not speaking of a system’s cost does not negate the cost’s existence. Good luck, stay safe.

Example images are used as aids. All image sources are listed directly below their respective image. The only sling I have at the time of writing this is the DIY Convertible one currently on my AR. Providing only a picture of this one sling would not be exactly explanatory, so I hope this system of photo credit is kosher.

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Point System
Types of slings are generally denoted by type of attachment to the carbine. They can attach at one or two points on the weapon. Slings that attach at one point are most usually referred to as Singlepoint slings. Slings that attach at two points are, fittingly, called Two-points. Three point systems do exist, though they only connect to the weapon at two points and to themselves at a third and sometimes fourth point depending on design. They have been largely phased out of use in all fields in favor of Convertible offerings that achieve a similar effect through simpler design. Recently, several slings and aftermarket accessories have allowed end users to “convert” a sling from a Two-point configuration to a Singlepoint, and vice-versa without tools and in a couple seconds at most. Such slings have been called 1-to-2 point slings, convertible slings and hybrid slings. Preference of system is very much a subjective issue. Both Singlepoints and Two-points have their respective merits. In order to determine which you prefer, I highly recommend any reputable, convertible offering for your first sling. Making a sling using the same components featured in mass produced slings is also very easy… I may make a thread on this some day.

Singlepoint Slings


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Singlepoint slings offer the most free and unhampered weapon manipulation and operation. This is a double-edged sword. The greater ease of use of the weapon is countered somewhat by making the weapon more of a hassle to accommodate when not employing it. That is, when CASEVACing, working on an ordnance item, eating a twinkie, etc., anything that does not require use of the weapon, Singlepoints will require a secondary method to secure them on your body. Otherwise the weapon will flop about as you move, potentially striking you, your casualty, muzzle striking the deck, a doorframe, etc., and generally becoming more of a safety hazard than a comparable Two-point. Singlepoints will require your hand on the weapon to reposition and stabilize it much more often than Two-points. They generally attach to the weapon near the rear of the receiver, above and/or behind the pistol grip. An AR or similarly-weighted weapon will hang more or less vertical when attached at this point with the pistol grip on or near the first line belt level on the body. Because none of their components generally move forward on the weapon past the FCG, Singlepoints tend to interfere less with the manipulation and operation of the weapon than Two-points. They can still interfere very much with establishing a grip on the pistol grip. It is simpler in terms of the steps involved to transition shoulders with Singlepoints than Two-points, regardless of attachment type. The speed of your shoulder transitions is simply a training-dependent issue, neither system is inherently faster. Whether you would actually transition shoulders under stress is tangential at best. In short: Singlepoints are free, in some situations too much so. There is no perfect system. Good manufactures/dealers to buy from: Specter Gear, OSOE, Gear Sector, 215 Gear, Troy, Jones Tactical

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Two-Point Slings


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Two-points offer better weapon security. This is a double-edged sword. The greater retention of the weapon when inserting on a line and the ease of use offered when you simply swing the gun to your back and body drag a buddy is countered in value somewhat by restrictions when actually employing the weapon. Since the sling extends down the length of the weapon, usually to either the front of the receiver or the front of the foregrip/gas block area, there is simply more material and hardware in the way to interfere with the weapon’s essential controls. I have personally witnessed/experienced all types of slings hindering the use of a carbine in some way or other, but no configuration has been more prominently troublesome than the Two-point. I have witnessed/experienced Two-points interfering with the grip on the pistol grip, interfering with the stock placement, interfering with the cheek weld, interfering with the operation of the bolt catch and interfering with the support hand grip. When the rear attachment point is located on the outboard side of the stock, cheek weld is interfered with much less if at all. If slung around the neck only, Two-points can pull the head down and/or strain the neck when the weapon is dropped. In short: Two-points are secure, in some situations too much so. There is no perfect system. Good manufacturers/dealers to buy from: Blue Force Gear, Ares Armor, Specter Gear, OSOE

Convertible Slings


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Convertible slings make use of any quick-detach hardware near but not at one end that the other end of the sling can attach to. With such a system, the operator can switch between Singlepoint and Two-point setups at will, without tools or additional hardware and in a matter of seconds. Many companies offer Convertible designs with many different types of hardware, webbing and manufacturing processes. As a result it is difficult to make consistently accurate statements about them. That said, so long as you purchase yours from a reputable manufacturer that sources excellent hardware, you should not experience any issues. A few companies also offer aftermarket “1-to-2 point” or “Convertible” adapters that simply thread onto a sling so that you can turn an existing sling/the sling of your choice into a Convertible sling. Good manufacturers/dealers to buy from: Impact Weapons Components, Magpul, Emdom, Gear Sector, OSOE

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Rig-Mounted Singlepoint


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Some Singlepoints have been designed to be directly attached to Load-Bearing Equipment such as plate/armor carriers or chest rigs. If you plan on definitely using LBE when employing the weapon, keeping a rig-mounted Singlepoint on your rig is certainly worth consideration. The sling integrates with the LBE in some way so as to use it as an anchor for the weapon. It can loop around a mounting point, (MOLLE Rung or shoulder-mounted D-ring), then friction lock to itself or it can rely on a more complex arrangement run through both shoulder pads and anchored on the back. Because of this integration, they generally interfere less with the rig itself than the previously discussed, non-integrated, standalone solutions. Using such a traditional Singlepoint with LBE may lead to hardware or webbing getting caught on/in equipment such as a gap between pouches, antennae, restraints, etc., in addition to the unnecessary webbing of the sling possibly denying access to some rig-mounted equipment. A Rig-Mounted Singlepoint tends to avoid these issues, but it will probably be more difficult to stow the weapon on your person. In short: Rig-Mounted Singlepoints are worth testing and consideration for incorporation into your rig, regardless of your regular mission profile, however beyond use in overt operations allowing for the time to don LBE, they lack value. There is no perfect system. Of all designs, Rig-Mounted Singlepoints are the easiest to construct yourself. I once forgot to bring a sling to a High-Risk Warrant Service training exercise and was able to make a Rig-Mounted Singlepoint out of Prusik’d Bluewater accessory cord, an Omega Jake and my Eagle AIII. Theyre really easy. Good manufacturers/dealers to buy from: 215 Gear, Blue Force Gear, Emdom, Specter Gear, Gear Sector, OSOE

Attachment Hardware
There are a couple different attachment types found on modern carbine slings. Like the sling types themselves, each has their respective merits and preference is highly subjective. The major attachment types are discussed below. Whether your attachment is sewn into the sling or whether the sling’s webbing loops through it and is then friction locked to itself is also an issue of preference. Obviously, sewing the hardware in will not allow you to easily replace it should it ever break, wear out or otherwise become unusable. Sewing in your own hardware should not be taken lightly or be done by anyone without experience in tactical gear manufacturing. Local alteration shops, especially, may use their standard and unsuitable Polyester thread for this application, (at least Size 69 bonded Nylon thread ought to be used). Webbing Types vary not only in height and width but also in depth. As a result, poorly-manufactured friction locking devices or properly-dimensioned devices used with webbing of a different specification than the Type they were designed to be used with can result in the sling undoing or at least adjusting itself regularly.

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Quick Detach (QD) Swivels


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QD Swivels are a very popular attachment type. They require a proprietary mount on the weapon called a QD Swivel Socket or simply QD Socket. The system relies on the longevity of a single spring and the quality of the metals used in the Socket and the ball bearings in the Swivel. This is an extensively-tested and well-proved system, though it is certainly the most mechanically complex system available for this application. It is extremely easy to use compared to other systems. One hand takes care of attaching and detaching QD Swivels, usually without any repositioning of the hand or excessive fumbling. Improperly-manufactured Sockets or Swivels may not work with some Swivels or Sockets, respectively. Sockets without reliefs or with reliefs cut too deep in the cylinder will not allow the Swivel to lock in place, Swivels with smaller outer diameters of the cylinder that holds the bearings may pop out of a properly-dimensioned Socket. If buying all components from a reputable manufacturer, especially one represented and recommended here, none of this will be of concern. If buying no-name components from Ebay or such, no guarantees can be made as to function. Rotation-limited Sockets only feature reliefs about a limited part of the Socket’s inner circumference and as such do not allow any Swivel inserted into them to rotate past a certain point. This helps avoid a heavily twisted sling. Many rail systems, stocks and even lower receivers are made these days with QD Sockets built into them. QD Socket kits from Impact Weapons Components, for example, can usually be fitted to stocks and foregrips that would otherwise not allow for the use of rail-mounted Sockets. QD Sockets are by far the most expensive attachment type available, but if you’re already buying a $600+ optic and such, I doubt their price will be too steep for you. Good manufacturers/dealers to buy from: Daniel Defense, Bravo Company Manufacturing, TangoDown, Noveske, Viking Tactics, Impact Weapon Components, Gear Sector

MASH Hooks


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MASH Hooks are stoneage simple, effective, durable, quick to use, cheap and proven as an attachment type. It it very difficult to get them to fail or wear out in such a way that they no longer effectively maintain the connection to the weapon. They are offered in a couple different sizes and often sold with replaceable elastic “socks” to quiet them and limit any marring of the weapon they support. There is absolutely no mechanism. The entire unit is made from a single piece of steel and no other parts are used in its construction. Their ease of use is less than that of QD Swivels and they do require some getting used to in order to efficiently manipulate them. Good manufacturers/dealers to buy from: ITW, MilSpec Monkey, DIY Tactical

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HK Hooks


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HK Hooks are simple steel hooks with a carabiner-style, spring-loaded, non-locking gate and a slot for webbing. Their exact design, dimensions and subsequent reliability can vary depending on who manufactured them. They vary in their design and dimensions by far the most of any contemporary attachment type. If the sling bearing them is twisted while they are connected to a hard anchor point on the weapon, the hard anchor point can open the gate and release the hook, effectively failing the connection. This is not an issue if using a soft anchor point/adapter such as Paracord. Harder adapters such as Blue Force Gear’s UWL may induce similar issues. Good manufacturers/dealers to buy from: MilSpec Monkey

Side-Release Buckles


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You’re probably familiar with this type of device. Thousands of designs are out there, many utilizing different plastics, friction locking systems and even whistles and handcuff keys these days. Anything made by ITW or National Molding, (NM’s buckles may be branded “Duraflex”) is good to go. They are not suitable for heavy load-bearing applications, but perform fine in slings. The female portion of the buckle can be easily broken if stepped on, shut in a door, etc.

Sling Swivels


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The most traditional attachment type often seen, Sling Swivels are common to both bolt guns featuring scrimshawed dogs and birds on the stock and your local WalMart’s sporting goods section. They are rarely seen on fighting carbines these days due to comparative difficultly to quickly attach and detach from the weapon. They are commonly available in 1” and 1.25” varieties and require proprietary mounting hardware called a Sling Swivel Stud on the weapon. Most bolt guns and some shotguns come with such Studs from the factory. These Studs see greater use among the tactical community as mounting points for various bipods.

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Miscellaneous Hardware Information
In the past few years, aluminum quick release buckles such as AustriAlpin’s Cobra series have found use in many tactical equipment applications. As it relates to this discussion, their 1-1.25” buckles, (current model numbers FC24B-FC33B), have seen recent implementation in several slings from manufacturers as small as Savvy Sniper to as large as Blue Force Gear. This series of buckles is particularly difficult to release compared to alternative quick release systems, especially when loaded, even only marginally, and even more so when filled with debris. It is my personal opinion that this series of buckles has no place on slings intended for practical use with long guns. They do make excellent buckles in other applications. If you genuinely believe that you need a way to efficiently detach your weapon from yourself via hardware in the sling but you do not trust traditional, plastic Side Release Buckles, I urge you to consider the use of a climbing-rated, black-oxide coated stainless steel Quick Release Snap Shackle. A small, brass version of this type of hardware is featured on the Magpul MS2 sling. It takes a little practice to become proficient at reattaching it. Snap Shackles are available through ParaGear.com and many other outdoor retailers.

S&S Precision recently released a product called the Sling Clip. If you prefer a Singlepoint but would like a level of security similar to Two-points for non weapon-intensive action, this may be a solution for you.

Using HK or MASH Hooks with a hard attachment point will eventually result in minor wear of the metal of the attachment point. I have never seen an attachment point wear all the way through, or even to a point that would cause doubt in it security. Even if only superficial, this issue can be avoided by using a soft adapter between the attachment point and the Hook. This will make it more difficult to attach to the weapon, though. 215 Gear produces an adapter for just this purpose, most accessory cord and 550 works fine as well.

I believe “Triglide” is a registered Trademark of some Illinois Tool Works subsidiary, though many companies sell comparable products marketed as Triglides. So practically, a Triglide is any friction device featuring two slots through which webbing pass created by three bars that exert friction on that webbing and prevent it from moving through the device. “Ladder Lock” or “Ladderloc” refers to similar friction devices with traditionally three or more slots for webbing, (giving the device more of a “ladder” look). It is traditionally used for adjusting the length of a strap of webbing faster than one could if using only Triglides. ITW has produced a few Ladderloc-brand friction devices with only two slots, they are weird exceptions. Triglides and Ladderlocs of various types are available at countless online retailers or your local outdoor equipment store. Most REI locations stock their own brand of each, which are perfectly respectable and compatible with the majority of the 1” wide webbing used in modern slings.

Impact Weapons Components’ 1-to-2 Point Triglide has seen widespread adoption, evaluation and praise by the crowd represented here on M4Carbine.net. It would appear to be a respectable option for someone looking to construct a convertible sling. Keep in mind that any sling you add it to must not have sewn-in hardware at its ends. Alternatively, you can cut any sewn-in hardware out, burn the sling’s end and use friction devices to secure the hardware at the ends. The IWC Triglide can be used without additional friction devices, though two extra Triglides can help move the IWC Triglide closer to your body while maintaining a static position of the connection hardware on the sling and redundantly pinning the sling’s tail to itself. At least one copy of the IWC product is currently on the market and I cannot speak even hearsay regarding its quality.

Many products currently fill the role of stowing the weapon when retained and supported by a Singlepoint by not in use. S&S Precision’s WeaponLink and 215 Gear’s Multi-Mission Weapon Retention both can help secure the weapon, each for a particular type of retention. S&S’s product is a passive retention holster, in effect, which works well when on the ground, working with your hands. 215’s product is designed for more motion-intensive applications such as aerial insertions of all types. Both are available for MOLLE platforms, S&S’s is also available with an adjustable height belt mount. Several other products fill this role however I cannot speak as to their performance.

Sling loops of any type that are 1” wide will usually accept even tubular webbing up to 1.25”, so long as the slot is high enough. Bunching up webbing in a small, circular attachment point such as Magpul’s RSA or IWC’s Snap Hooks is not an issue with respect to slings.

Most of us do not own hot knives, but a common lighter will seal 99% of webbing just fine. You can use your wet fingers to pinch the molten tip as you do with 550 and combine that with any flat, hard surface for a more professional appearance. As always, if you get molten webbing on your finger, get it off immediately. It will continue to burn you even after hardening. Keep the burnt ends as flat as possible by pinching to ensure that you can still move them through friction devices if desired.

If your particular webbing/friction device combination does not provide enough friction to make you confident in the security of the lock, you can run the loose end over the first two bars (Triglide) and through the remaining slot, under the third bar for additional friction. This will be difficult to fit through, regardless of webbing sizes. I recommend need-nose pliers.

There are more Types of webbing out there than are actually classified by Type. Most of the man-made varieties will get the job done just fine for a sling and many other applications. I highly suggest avoiding Polyester webbing of all types and sticking to Nylon-based webbing for all outdoor activities due to mildew, erosion and ultimate failure as well as less abrasion resistance in the former. As a general rule, the “softer” the face of the webbing feels, the less friction it will provide in a friction device and the more likely it will be to undo itself during use. Softer webbings do feel better on the neck but consider whether comfort is a priority for you. A good all-around webbing in my opinion is Type 7 4088 (MIL-W-4088 Type 7) webbing. It is available through ParaGear.com. For slings, I suggest avoiding 43668 and 17337. 5625 is fine if youre into that… I just dont see any reason to use anything but 4088.

But that’s just, like, my opinion, man.