Should I pin over set screw?

[MegademiC]

Anyone stake screws in the gas block? I’m guessing it’s a bad idea as I’ve never heard of anyone doing it.

Or maybe it’s just overkill?

[JasonB1]

@MegademiC

Anyone stake screws in the gas block? I’m guessing it’s a bad idea as I’ve never heard of anyone doing it.

Or maybe it’s just overkill?

I did on my PSA chf by FN. Got curious about it after reading reviews and found the barrel was not dimpled for a set screw which has been the only thing I have found not so hot with Palmetto State’s higher-end parts. So I dimpled where the screw (Or screws…really seems like 2) was digging into the barrel, high temp thread locker, followed by staking the tightened screws with an automatic center punch.

[hk_shootr]

@Hulkstr8

Could you explain further?

How important overall is dimpling or pinning?
Also, I might give a shot at ADCO. I’m only an hour and half drive away.

Did ya read the comment I was replying to?

[hk_shootr]

@MegademiC

Anyone stake screws in the gas block? I’m guessing it’s a bad idea as I’ve never heard of anyone doing it.

Or maybe it’s just overkill?

I’d prefer a pin over set screws.

I have not had a gasblock that was installed with Rockset loosen. All were dimpled as well.

Have not heard of anyone staking, but it could work.

[Hulkstr8]

@hk_shootr

Did ya read the comment I was replying to?

Yeah. I didn’t understand your reply.

[SomeOtherGuy]

@Hulkstr8

One of my barrels is a LaRue* Stealth which has three dimples and I have the matching gas block. Beefy.
Should I get this pinned? Thoughts? *sidenote: I am having an multi-month ongoing CS issue with them right now.

I would trust the Larue setup without much concern.

@Hulkstr8

Another of my barrels is a Ballistic Advantage Hanson. Comes with a pinned gas block, but no dimples. Should I send it off to have it dimpled?

No, entirely pointless, the pin is far stronger.

@Hulkstr8

Lastly, I have a GMR barrel with no dimples or pins. I originally wanted a FSB install, but I can’t find someone who will do it because the barrel is nitride’d. Should I dimple & pin? On this one I am using a nitride low-pro Brownell’s gas block. Weird set spacing at .415.

I’m amused each time I read that no one will pin on a nitride-treated barrel. All you have to do is grind off the exterior nitride layer with an aluminum oxide wheel, then you’re back to the base steel at typical hardness (RC maybe 26-28, nothing super hard). From there you drill and pin as if it’s an untreated barrel. I have personally done this on three nitride treated barrels, including a Daniel Defense CHF/nitride S2W. With sharp bits of the right type (cobalt steel or carbide) you could probably drill just fine without the preliminary step of grinding off the nitride layer, but that step eliminates any issue.

If you’re going to build regularly I suggest standardizing on one quality type of low-pro gas block. I like the Geissele SGB, but there are some other good options like Black River Tactical. You could also use a common set-screw style block (like YHM or Troy) if you have a jig for drilling the pin-hole or access to a mini-mill.

@Hulkstr8

What’s the thoughts on dimpling? Pinning? Is it a must? - All of these rifles could potentially be duty use.
How can I make sure the gas block is properly aligned without the barrel being dimpled? Can I do any of this work myself -I haven’t found anyone in the mid-Michigan area I trust anymore.

Set screws seem adequate, but I don’t like building something that fails, so I pin my builds if I can’t find a barrel like that has a factory pinned gas block - which is pretty easy to do now.

Duty use is a bit of a thread veer, but I don’t like the idea of amateur homebuilds for duty use. I would buy a fully assembled quality upper for any on-duty use and keep the personal builds for personal use.

Ned Christiansen is in lower (SW) Michigan and has a great reputation, and he already posted in the thread, but it appears he isn’t taking on custom work right now per his website (http://www.m-guns.com/). If you go on MGO forums you should be able to find some other options. There are people in SE Michigan with good reputations who do this work, but I haven’t personally used their services so I won’t post any names.

[Hulkstr8]

Yeah, if I had planned it out better I would have used the same gas block across my rifles. First time building though, so.

I will lurk around the Michigan forum and see what I can shake loose. I also know that I am a new builder, but I have a hard time thinking a factory rifle can be much better than one I can build. Yeah? Out-of-the-box reliability is one thing, but I will def buy a rifle next time. Just would like to see the differences between a factory spec’d rifle and my frankenguns.

[hdrolling]

@Hulkstr8

Yeah, if I had planned it out better I would have used the same gas block across my rifles. First time building though, so.

I will lurk around the Michigan forum and see what I can shake loose. I also know that I am a new builder, but I have a hard time thinking a factory rifle can be much better than one I can build. Yeah? Out-of-the-box reliability is one thing, but I will def buy a rifle next time. Just would like to see the differences between a factory spec’d rifle and my frankenguns.

Not worth it at all to buy factory, my first was factory built and the rest are all assembled by me. You can easily assemble a factory clone like BCM, DD or Noveske a lot cheaper than buying a complete factory rifle.

My Daniels Defense M4V11PRO I put together for about $500 cheaper than buying a new unfired factory V11PRO, But it has all the same parts. Same for my 16" BCM, found a cheap complete factory lower and then a cheap complete upper and now its all BCM but $400 cheaper than buying new.

[JasonB1]

@SomeOtherGuy

I’m amused each time I read that no one will pin on a nitride-treated barrel. All you have to do is grind off the exterior nitride layer with an aluminum oxide wheel, then you’re back to the base steel at typical hardness (RC maybe 26-28, nothing super hard). From there you drill and pin as if it’s an untreated barrel. I have personally done this on three nitride treated barrels, including a Daniel Defense CHF/nitride S2W. With sharp bits of the right type (cobalt steel or carbide) you could probably drill just fine without the preliminary step of grinding off the nitride layer, but that step eliminates any issue.

Yeah that bug up the asses of some seems to be based on fantasy instead of reality.
[video=youtube_share;pyenwL7DSMU]https://youtu.be/pyenwL7DSMU[/video]

[Renegade04]

@Hulkstr8

Furthermore, if I was to have the gas block pinned but then change the block to another in the future, would the pin hole size be applicable to other gas blocks?

Not necessarily. This is where pinning a gas block becomes an issue. This is where set screw gas blocks have an advantage. As long as they are installed properly, there is not an issue.

[Hulkstr8]

Thanks for all the tips, tricks, and advice.

I am def enjoying building these rifles. Buying tools I never had. Learning about the platform. It’s great.

[Clint]

We offer the option for pinned gas blocks with our barrels.

[hdrolling]

I was finally able to get my barrel today and used the SRL dimple jig to line up the spots on my barrel, came out perfect.

Here is a pic of the top were the gas port is in the barrel, the screw sets into the the port hole to make sure its perfectly lined up.

IMG_9005 by hd_rolling, on Flickr

Here is the bottom where the dimples go, two holes. You just drill the first hole and then move the guide bolt to the next hole and drill that one. After I dimpled both and set my gas block on everything lined up perfect.

IMG_9004 by hd_rolling, on Flickr
IMG_9006 by hd_rolling, on Flickr