Does Daniel defense use any thread locker when installing flash hiders? If so, which one?
Thanks!
Not that I have seen.
The last one I removed was on 40-50# it felt like. Easily twice as tough to remove it as the MD’s I install at 25# tq. maybe more.
Yes, it’s on pretty tight. Tried Kroil, heat…need to add some more weight to my workbench. Why on earth do they do that?
What length is the barrel?
Are you sure it isnt pinned?
16". Don’t see any evidence of weld/pin. Factory built.
Bummer.
How are you holding the barrel? You need to be holding it as close to the MD as possible.
Aluminum vise blocks.
I used a Geissele reaction rod and things still made me uncomfortable. Mine was on AT LEAST 50#.
Second the reaction rod. I’ve had some really tight ones also. But nothing just a standard 19mm snap-on open end wrench wouldn’t take right off. If your bench isn’t that strong or heavy, you might be using your force and just moving the bench preventing it from coming off. Load that sucker up. You should never have to heat up a MD. Especially if it was just installed with a crush washer.
The reaction rod is the wrong tool to use for removing a MD. The full barrel length springs and absorbs some of the force you are applying. There is also a real chance of removing the barrel extension. Ask me how I know.
The only way the barrel extension can come loose is if it was installed incorrectly to begin with or the barrel extension was Melonited or Nitrided after assembly. In which case I would prefer to discover this ahead of time.
Not sure why these muzzle devices are torqued so high considering there is no torque for an A2 styled flash hider with a crush washer.
Hmmm… I have a DDM4V7 that I swapped MDs on and had no problems whatsoever. I had no more trouble removing it than any other crush-washered device. I admit that I don’t have any type of barrel clamp or vice jaws, so i just wrapped the barrel in a bunch of leather and towels, cranked the barrel into my vice as close as I could get to the MD (carefully), then went at it with a wrench. It broke rather easily, maybe at 30# or so. Maybe mine was under-torqued from the factory…
Use a reaction rod. Any other way is just an excuse waiting to happen.
I also have removed a MD from both of my DDM4V1’s and while I slightly remember the torque value a tad higher on one of them, it was not an issue, specially not one where I was overly worried about.
I would soak it as another posted, in the past what worked for me was taking a rubber mallet and very gently tap around the MD, the MD was wet when I did this so I am not sure if taping the MD helped break something free or it may have added to the lubricant spreading and penetrating the threads. After I tried this the MD came off very easy. This was not on a DD I think it was a BCM upper.