Heres the press I used to reload pistol cartridges
http://www.leeprecision.com/html/catalog/lp1000.html
It worked great.
Not bad, 200 bucks for a complete setup eh?
Very interesting to say the least.
I’m going to have to go check that out.
Here’s one for $150 delivered:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=114&t=369178
Act fast while thread is locked. CHEAP!
Walmart just raised 100 packs of .45 ACP to $22.96 from $20.96 and 9mm to $12.96 from $11.96.
Whose got the best price on 230 gr. copper jacketed bullets?
New member here, so hello to all, and looking forward to participating whenever possible. A little background on me. I own several firearms, with my favorite(s) being the AR platform. I have been traveling quite extensively for the past several years, so have been away from the sport for a few years. I have retired from the road, and have gotten all my gear back up to snuff. I was quite surprised at the cost of all things related, especially ammo. So, I have deceided to get into reloading, more to insure the uninterrupted supply of my “addiction”.
I will only be loading 556, probably using 40-50 gr. vmax, and military once fired brass, probably 3M-5M yearly. In my research, it seems like the Rock Chucker Supreme is a good place to start, so I’m OK with that. Being new to this, I’m not exactly sure what all the kit parts are, and what I would need in addition to that.
As I have NO access to anything locally, all will have to be ordered online. This is where the problem lies.
If someone would take the time to list their recommendations for every (hardware) item I’ll need I would greatly appreciate it. i.e. I would like to make one order for this stuff, and be done with it.
I would also like for all this to work the first time, so I’m not backing up with re-orders, etc, and I don’t want to skimp on quality (very good dies, etc.).
I know this will take some time to list this item by item, so I am very thankful for your effort.
Again, i only need the hardware list for now, not consummables, as I can bring that together fairly easily.
A long post I know, so thank you for your time, and input.
WPS.
Dam, that sucks.
Even my old stand by Blazer .45 is getting expensive.
My local Supercenter doesn’t even have .45 ACP and 9mm in stock.
I have brass, primers, powder and no bullets.
wps… Here are some links that I used to get started.
http://home.comcast.net/~davidawilson/LongRange/LR_Frame.htm (click on the Handloading Method on the left)
http://home.earthlink.net/~dannewberry/dannewberrysoptimalchargeweightloaddevelopment/id7.html
I’ve been loading my 10mm pistol ammo for years and have long ago paid for my reloader.
I’m thinking of reloading the 5.56 for my AR since it looks like I’ll shoot about 1000 plus rds per year. I think I can reload 500 rds for about $54.
But there’s a big difference between loading pistol and rifle ammo. I’ve go lots to learn.
I like reloading since one must focus, that way the gun goes bang rather than KaBOOM. That focus helps me get my mind off work etc so it’s a win-win. I get cheap ammo and de-stress at the same time.
I reload .223 for about 9 cents a round using Data Powder 68 (I buy it at gun shows to avoid hazmat fees), CCI 400 primers and Winchester bulk 55 grain bullets.
I reload .45acp for about 10 cents a round using Accurate #2 powder, CCI large pistol primers, and Rainier copper plated bullets or Zero FMJ bullets.
The main thing to consider when reloading bottlenecked rifle cartridges is all of the prep-work with the brass. You have to clean, resize & deprime, trim, chamfer & deburr the brass before you even start “reloading” it. I bought a possum hollow qwik case trimmer ($18) w/ power drill adapter ($9) to greatly speed up the trimming process. You could also spend $350 or so on a Giraud trimmer that trims, chamfers and deburrs in one quick step.
That is a great press and I’ve loaded hundreds of thousands of rounds on mine… I don’t use it for 45ACP anymore though. The Pro1000 only has 3 stations, so you can’t seat and crimp in seperate operations.
The dies may be different now, but my lee die seater/crimper die does a roll crimp, not a taper crimp. I’ve found that for the best reliability, I need to taper crimp. You can do that on a single stage press after you’ve done everything else on the Pro1000, or you need to get a press with more than 3 stations.
(I use a Lee Loadmaster for 45 ACP now, but I can’t recommend it. Unlike the Pro1000, the Loadmaster required lots of tinkering to get it running and is generally a pain in the ass).