Yeah, when 15s came out, everyone acted like suddenly you can’t possibly drive with 14s. Kinda like how some deer hunters act like a 30-30 can’t kill a modern up-armored deer. Obviously it doesn’t work like that. 15s are better, but they don’t make 14s useless.
I seem to remember having more “depth” of focus with 15s and 6s, but I haven’t used them in about 4 years, so take that with a grain of salt. You also have twice as many adjustments to make when you refocus, so theres that.
The way I always dealt with focus, even with 14s, was to set the focus further away, and just deal with the fuzziness up close, mostly. If I really needed to focus on something close, I would do so, and them refocus back to distance. If you work in the dark enough, its easy peasy.
The way to deal with that is to only use NODs indoors when silent clearing, which is done infrequently. Its mostly done on the visible spectrum. Because realistically, once your opening doors and such, theres a good chance everyone knows your there so the best bet is to work quickly and not be tripping over $h!t. Especially if your breaching, or if you’re shooting dudes.
The guys outside on security or isolation are, of course, using NODs.
Most of the time, as soon as you make entry you tilt your head to look under the NODs and work with white light, or flip them up. White light also helps you not trip boobytraps, or accidentally bypass a bad guy thats hiding. And its a submission tool.
So use the NODs and IR lasers/illuminators as you approach the target building to pie windows and doorways as much as possible, then look under the NVGs (or flip them up) as you go through the breach point. Use your RDS or whatever with white light. Violence of action. Then SSE/TQ as fast as possible and exfil or hit follow-ons with a sense of purpose. SSE should also be done with white light.