Does anyone have any preference for any specific type/brand of these devices?
New suppressor came with one and I am debating on setting other rifles up for it.
I have been using the Keymo system before. I settled on open tine flash hiders especially for my SBR. My thinking was I didn’t want the extra blast generated by a brake when I used it without the suppressor. I found I didn’t use my old and heavy can that much on carbines. Cumbersome and very gassy.
Any thoughts on my logic, or specific suggestions are welcomed. New can is printed Ti and came with 2 Rearden R2S devices(556 & 30 cal) . Can is a Tidal Zeus Cannon, ZEUS CANNON – TIDAL . Local company and my dealer recommended it. No, I haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet. put the R2Ss on a 11.5” 556 and a 9.5” 300 Blackout. Not sure what else I’ll use it on, or if I’ll leave the others as is.
Trying to decide on flash hider vs brake on SBR’s and probably switching over to a Plan B.
I don’t have a lot of interest in shooting an 11.5" without a can and a brake is theoretically taking some of the hit instead of the first baffle. That is versus the fact a comped 11.5" without can is even worse and i can’t find any testing on can life using brake vs. not.
Haven’t bought one yet, but the Plan B comptible Zilch hub is one I am looking at to get away from the weight/length of an A2 compatible mount.
I missed that thread, I was thinking a Ti HUB would be nice.
If I didn’t have more barrels than cans, I would go brake. Lots of opinions they save wear on that first baffle. But I have friends who “help” me shoot my guns. Easy to picture my braked gun being shot beside me sans can. And the blast on a short 556 is bad enough without a brake. The other fix (more cans) gets expensive.
I have noticed that the Plan B devices are short, with some being downright stubby. Is there a max length defined for them? I’ll need to remember to check inside the can clearance for anything I find. The R2S is 1.74” and it seems to leave .63” clearance to the 1st baffle. The Zilch appears to sit deeper in the can than mine, so it may have less clearance. Depending on where the taper starts.
I’ve never seen someone wear out a blast baffle. I do see mongoloid retards blow cans apart on instagram. But that’s just retardation to get attention.
I’m currently using a direct thread can and I’ve set up my A2 flash hiders so they’re easily wrenched off and remounted without a ton of torque. I know that’s not a romantic solution, but it works great for me.
I don’t care for cans on short guns because it’s too gassy, but I have put mine on an 11.5 just to try out. My shorties are run outdoors and not under a range awning so they’re not miserable to shoot unsuppressed.
I stuck a McMaster Carr vented set screw in a Brownell’s 11.5" A1 barrel because of the gas to the face.
Reliable and very smooth with can on, but without can it will not lock the bolt back even in hot weather. Undecided on opening the vent up enough to function without the can, but waiting till winter to check how it goes with the can on before making a decision.
I always thought Plan B —> Rearden full stop (but could be wrong). Although I think a lot of people know that which is why they are out of stock irregularly. But JoeBobs carries a ton of it and Rearden makes so make options in so many finishes on many thread patterns that finding someone may be a bit of looking but you will find it.
I love their hub adapter which I have on all my cans and keep 2-3 in the house just in case I find another can I want.
A drop of rocksett is all I’ve needed for install just not sure what happens in the rain…
From Charger Arms(ordered Friday, shipped Tuesday, arrived Thursday from Kansas to Kentucky).
Guessing the Zilch(1.5oz) is lower profile than most direct thread mounts since this is slightly recessed and comes within less than 3/64" of being flush with the CBAH brake(1.9oz) so I am happy with the size and weight.
CBAH heat treat only finish is fairly dull in person. Think burnt bronze or some batches of desert dirt that ALG rails used to come in.
Will try to get some shooting in soon and see if it works as advertised.
That is what surprised me about the Plan B stuff. Its so much more compact and lighter. I suppose that’s a benefit of simplicity and fewer parts.
I find it interesting the Rearden R2S is a stepped cone interior and the side slots are ramped. I wonder if that imparts a venturi effect pulling cold air into the blast. The ramps are similar to the A2 slots but more aggressive. If I recall correctly, the A2 actually performed better than many aftermarket flash-hiders costing several times more. Does it pull cooler air in?
I’d like to try and film a R2S and an A2 together to compare. Just for my own curiosity. When I compared the Tidal Zeus to my Saker 762, the Saker clearly performed better, though with a big weight penalty. I used the same ammo in 2 16” 556 barrels.
When they say Ti is “sparky”, they aren’t joking. I hope there is some kind of break-in where that at least reduces.
I haven’t yet decided if I’ll switch out the KeyMo mount on the Saker to the Plan B. Although it would allow me to use either can an any rifle.
Think this guy hits all the points i have sden mentioned and he claims it will reduce initially(essentially the remnants of manufacturing getting blown out), but never completely go away.
Not sure if sparking will occur with the Zilch since very little Ti is exposed inside the can.
I was aware of the “sparky” issue before I bought the Tidal. I just wasn’t thinking about it when I pulled the trigger and was little surprised. Though what I witnessed was just a fraction of that video. As in I didn’t see a mass of sparks, but rather a few individual trails.
And it is described as being a low back pressure / flow through design.
