Does anyone have any preference for any specific type/brand of these devices?
New suppressor came with one and I am debating on setting other rifles up for it.
I have been using the Keymo system before. I settled on open tine flash hiders especially for my SBR. My thinking was I didn’t want the extra blast generated by a brake when I used it without the suppressor. I found I didn’t use my old and heavy can that much on carbines. Cumbersome and very gassy.
Any thoughts on my logic, or specific suggestions are welcomed. New can is printed Ti and came with 2 Rearden R2S devices(556 & 30 cal) . Can is a Tidal Zeus Cannon, ZEUS CANNON – TIDAL . Local company and my dealer recommended it. No, I haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet. put the R2Ss on a 11.5” 556 and a 9.5” 300 Blackout. Not sure what else I’ll use it on, or if I’ll leave the others as is.
Trying to decide on flash hider vs brake on SBR’s and probably switching over to a Plan B.
I don’t have a lot of interest in shooting an 11.5" without a can and a brake is theoretically taking some of the hit instead of the first baffle. That is versus the fact a comped 11.5" without can is even worse and i can’t find any testing on can life using brake vs. not.
Haven’t bought one yet, but the Plan B comptible Zilch hub is one I am looking at to get away from the weight/length of an A2 compatible mount.
I missed that thread, I was thinking a Ti HUB would be nice.
If I didn’t have more barrels than cans, I would go brake. Lots of opinions they save wear on that first baffle. But I have friends who “help” me shoot my guns. Easy to picture my braked gun being shot beside me sans can. And the blast on a short 556 is bad enough without a brake. The other fix (more cans) gets expensive.
I have noticed that the Plan B devices are short, with some being downright stubby. Is there a max length defined for them? I’ll need to remember to check inside the can clearance for anything I find. The R2S is 1.74” and it seems to leave .63” clearance to the 1st baffle. The Zilch appears to sit deeper in the can than mine, so it may have less clearance. Depending on where the taper starts.
I’ve never seen someone wear out a blast baffle. I do see mongoloid retards blow cans apart on instagram. But that’s just retardation to get attention.
I’m currently using a direct thread can and I’ve set up my A2 flash hiders so they’re easily wrenched off and remounted without a ton of torque. I know that’s not a romantic solution, but it works great for me.
I don’t care for cans on short guns because it’s too gassy, but I have put mine on an 11.5 just to try out. My shorties are run outdoors and not under a range awning so they’re not miserable to shoot unsuppressed.
I stuck a McMaster Carr vented set screw in a Brownell’s 11.5" A1 barrel because of the gas to the face.
Reliable and very smooth with can on, but without can it will not lock the bolt back even in hot weather. Undecided on opening the vent up enough to function without the can, but waiting till winter to check how it goes with the can on before making a decision.
I always thought Plan B —> Rearden full stop (but could be wrong). Although I think a lot of people know that which is why they are out of stock irregularly. But JoeBobs carries a ton of it and Rearden makes so make options in so many finishes on many thread patterns that finding someone may be a bit of looking but you will find it.
I love their hub adapter which I have on all my cans and keep 2-3 in the house just in case I find another can I want.
A drop of rocksett is all I’ve needed for install just not sure what happens in the rain…