Hi, sorry if this is the wrong place to post this question. I’m starting a build with a stripped lower. I can get a stripped LMT Defender lower for about $115, but they had a lot of cheaper lowers from less reputable manufacturers as well.
When it comes to a stripped lower, is there much point in going for quality like LMT? Or would that just be for cosmetic/vanity reasons?
Its going to take me over a year to get this finished, so i’m in no hurry to start, I just want to make sure i’m starting off on the right track.
An LMT lower will most likely not give you any trouble as far as tolerances are concerned. During the Obama gun sales rush I bought two lowers from a low end manufacturer (because they were the only ones I could find in stock at the time), and they had some tolerances that were machined wrong. I ended up selling them both. YMMV.
I have built numerous lowers using the LMT stripped lower. All have been GTG. However, I have had a few issues with a LMT BCG and a complete LMT lower. My experience with their CS was less than acceptable. I do not know what your goal is. Are you looking to build a complete lower for the experience, or ??? Depending on your goals for this weapon, might I suggest a Sionics gutless lower. http://sionicsweaponsystems.com/store2015/sionics-lower-receiver-assemblies/162-patrol-rifle-zero.html
The sum of the parts makes this a value and most importantly, to me, is that their CS is outstanding. Just a suggestion, since I am not sure what your trying to accomplish.
A very good deal for the price since you get not only the lower but a properly installed buffer tube with a QD end plate as well as the bolt catch, front pivot pin and rear take down pin installed.
I am in the same situation, planning to pick up an aero precision M4E1 lower for my 1st AR lower build (will likely mate it to a complete upper once I decide if I want another carbine or mid length gas system)
I’ve built out a complete Aero Precision M4E1 lower, and I’m currently building an LMT MARS-L lower and regular Aero Gen 2 lower. To both n8vmind and OP, plenty of people use Aero lowers with success. If I may suggest, I would encourage using something like an Aero lower, if you insist on building yourself. Why? Because there’s a fair chance you’ll mark it up a little, and there is a smaller chance you’ll do something wrong and damage it.
If you’ve put one together already, you could spend more money for a Sionics or LMT lower, but realistically, for the lower receiver at least, a standard lower receiver is what it is. I won’t touch Anderson and won’t buy any more Palmetto State Armory, though I’ve actually had no problems with my PSA lower, but when you look at companies with established reputations for QC and CS, sometimes you’re just throwing away money to pay over $75.
Unless you’re looking for specific traits such as ambidextrous controls or a fancy pants flared magwell, just get an Aero lower. Or PSA. Or Anderson. Anything in spec will work. If you don’t have any specific requirements, then why bother spending $200 on a lower?
Torque wrench, used on the receiver extension’s castle nut.
Armorer’s wrench.
I’d suggest the Magpul BEV.
Punch set.
I’d recommend the Brownell’s bolt catch punch.
Don’t forget the vice and the desk to attach it to, which are necessary to secure the receiver while applying proper torque to castle nut.
Honestly, unless you just like working on it, a complete lower from a reputable manufacturer can be more practical. I have enjoyed putting things together and “testing” components. However, unless you will be doing several…you could save money by buying a complete Sionics blemished lower, complete Aero, or maybe even BCM on sale. Probably others options, too.
Don’t let me discourage you; I certainly enjoy working on things. I just want to present the cost and alternative option. If I had time and a good place to shoot, I’d probably spend a lot more money on ammo than parts to tinker with.
Basically what I used with the first lower. Then I bought more tools to make it easier and to use with uppers.
With that said, I went back and re-did my receiver extension properly with a torque wrench. I figure if you’re going to do it, you might as well do it right.
$115 for an LMT stripped lower is a good start. You’re definitely getting a great lower to start your work on. My problem with LMT stripped lowers is that, I view LMT as a “whole package” sort of brand. I wouldn’t want just a stripped lower. I’d want a full on LMT rifle. I’d feel dirty using an LMT lower using a non-LMT LPK or even upper for that matter. But that’s just me.
Curious, who are these “less reputable” manufactures you speak of?
Your chances of buying a lower that is out of spec from a vast majority of companies right now is pretty slim. My only exception to this is non-forged aluminum lowers and Anderson. I’m more concerned about the parts going into it.
I want to add something here, and this might not matter to you much but if you looking into building a rifle that you may want to sell one day, I would chose an LMT lower over a Aero, Anderson or Spikes. I don’t have anything bad to say about those brands but LMT does carry a significantly higher resale value over other brands. LMT has the same recognition and desirability as KAC or Noveske IMO. If your planning on a build that will take up to a year, then build it right, from the start. If your going to go with an LMT lower, than I would expect you to match with a LMT buffer tube and perhaps a LPK. And be consistent with reputable manufactures and reliable parts all the way through the build.
The M4E1 lower is usually 80-90$ for the strippped lower. It is nice that it comes with a threaded bolt catch, but the Sionics gutless lower (especially the blem version) is just as good or better value. You get a lower with the more difficult parts already assembled (bolt catch/takedown pins/RE is installed and staked) qd end plate and castle nut are included as well. It is perfect for someone that wants to “build” their first lower and a good value