Lower pain in my @ss.

So here’s where I’m at. I’ve got an LMT lower that I’ve had sitting around for a couple years. I set it up with an ambi-safety, ergo grip and Alexander Arms trigger.

After installing the trigger I noticed that the sear would fail to engage reliably so I shelved it. There are 4 set screws to adjust trigger pull and over travel that are set with Loctite after adjustment so they’re stuck unless someone has suggestions… I would like to replace the trigger with something beefier and more confidence inspiring. The AA TRiggers are really nice but I would prefer something closer to Mil-spec.

In removing the grip screw I realized that I had used loc-tite on that too… Can probably apply some heat to loosen that up and replace the ergo with a MIAD.

My other big problem is that to remove the trigger I have to yank the safety which means removing the buffer tube and stop plate to get at the detent. I could reuse the castle nut and plate which have been staked but would prefer to replace them if they have to come off. I don’t see a way to get around the complete disassembly of the lower to do these things.

Any suggestions for these replacement parts or a new trigger group?

If you want a decent milspec type trigger look at the ALG defense QMS or ACT triggers. Or if you want an awesome 2 stage trigger go with a Geissele.

And you do not have to remove the castle nut and end plate to access your selector detent, that spring is retained in the grip.

Gieselle or KAC.

You could sell the AA trigger to pay for all the new parts you need. If you go Mil-spec. Is it this one?

Thats right! I was thinking the detent for the rear takedown pin. Brainfart!

I was thinking about the VLTOR A5 buffer tube, not sure it’d be worth it if I dont have to remove the old one.

The trigger I have is exactly like the one pictured. The 2 screws are set with loc-tite but I’m sure they can be heated and adjusted. I’m sure I can sell it for a good enough price to make it worth the hassle.

Thanks!

KAC triggers are known for being less than reliable. Geissele on the other hand has been proven to perform.

If it’s blue loctite you should have no problem breaking the screws loose with hand tools.

I rarely use any other loctite on firearms.

Red loc-tite. I’ll call this a lesson learned. Luckily I didn’t loc-tite the safety screw.

A soldering iron tip on the screws should heat them up enough to let you loosen them up.

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+2 on Geissele.

That’s odd. I’ve had great experience with mine, and have never heard of them breaking or anything…

“After installing the trigger I noticed that the sear would fail to engage reliably”

Do you mean the disconnector?

Very early ones had issues, they fixed the issues a long time ago though.

Red Loctite can be defeated with a “Wall paper removal heat gun” commonly found at Home Depot for about $30.

Good luck. Also, don’t put red loctite on guns anymore. :slight_smile: