I’m looking for a fighting or tactical knife with the following requirements:
Has a handguard. I’m not talking about just a choil or deep finger groove for your index finger, but an actual handguard.
Blade length of less than 6 inches.
Kydex sheath, if possible.
Blade shape is irrelevant. Preferably something with a thicker spine. Can anyone help me out?
Blackjack model 5
What’s your price range?
There too many choices without knowing how high you’re willing to go.
Mike at Bark River made this for me:
Blade is 5.25"
Came with a leather sheath, but with all the Kydex manufs out there, you should be able to find something for any knife.
Cost less than $200.00; I don’t remember the actual cost.
you can get good quality and durability from Ontario or Cold Steel
Those are 2 samples from a multitude of options (Ontario Gen II and Cold Steel Trailmaster). You can see them tortured to the breaking point on www.knifetest.com, and both can be acquired for less than $100.
I would shop Busse knives (swamprat, scrap yard, or Busse) for top of the line, if price is not an object.
Why do you feel that a handguard and a thick blade are required, but blade geometry doesn’t matter?
How is it that you picture a “fighting” knife being used?
Sorry, I wasn’t clear. I should have said blade shape is not a deciding factor for me. I don’t mind tantos or drop points or anything else. Primarily I’d like something with a guard, so my fingers don’t slip off the handle in a thrust.
That Ontario knife looks mighty interesting. I’ll have to check it out. Pricewise, I’m looking to keep it under $200 if possible. The Busse knives are great, but I would be afriad to use it at the prices they command.
Gotcha, but think about that for a second.
Your tip geometry is going to play a HUGE role in how much resistance you feel when thrusting. Daggers, purpose built for thrusting, have a really low volume, slender tip.
Tantos are chunky, to give strength to them (more for abuse than anything) but will NOT penetrate half as well as a dagger type point. So, if you want a blade for trusting, a tanto (or even just a chubby, thick design) will not penetrate as well, and will give you a higher probability of riding the blade.
Your grip technique, handle friction, and tip design all play huge roles in the security of your hand on the blade when thrusting.
By way of an example, here is a blade tailor made for thrusting:
Thin, spear point, handle does not extend far beyond the end of the hand, lets your thumb cap it without needing to lift up (loosing strength).
It does not have a guard because that can snag on a targets clothing or web gear.
If you are looking for a thrusting blade, I would consider the tip geometery, thickness (preferably not too thick), handle material, and handle length as key ingredients in finding the right knife.
The other thing I would add, is look at designs where the tip is centered in the grip, so the knife wants to enter straight down from where your hand is driving it.
nice! looks like my BlackJack Trailguide with an upper guard…
Thanks - I really like it, and just finished sharpening it about 30 mins ago.
Mike was really nice to work with.
Wish my guard was copper as yours - I didn’t even think to ask. Minor, almost not worth mentioning, issue.
my knife is 20 years old from when Mike Stewart had Black Jack Knives. now he is Bark River. I see he still likes the A2 steel and kept that blade profile. it’s a winner…