What light and light mount work best with a 14.5’’ upper with KAC ras rail. I would like to use a top rail mounted switch and the light mounted at the 1:30 position.
Any recommendation would be welcomed.
Surefire G2L in a VTAC or VLTOR offset mount on the 12 o’clock rail.
-RD62
I have a streamlight m3x that I have been thinking about mounting in the 12:00 position for HD work. My idea was to have 2 lights one for close HD work and another one that has a longer throw say to about 100± yards mounted at the 1:00 position with a remote switch. Has anybody done this good idea - bad idea.
Sorry I didn’t make my intention clear the first post.
Get a 6P with a Malkoff M60 in an offset mount from LaRue, Daniel Defense, or Elzetta.
The Tactical Night Vision drop ins is another option that is completely field tested with thousands upon thousands of rounds down range. See the March issue of SWAT Magazine on the lights used for the LWRC torture e test. These with a G2 or 6P are an awesome combo. Hope this helps.
Fenix TK10 or Tk11 in a VLTOR offset mount…
I have the tk10 and the vltor mount on both of my ARs…great set up
I have a Streamlight Poly-Tac LED mounted in a Vtac mount.
Thanks for all the responses. I freely admit I am not up to speed on tactical flashlights after looking at the suggestions I am considering vltor offset mount with a SF 6P light.
Thomas,
I have a couple of the Vtac mounts with G2 lights in them. They are a fantastic value and option, considering that it runs maybe $60 from Viking Tactics.
This will give you a basic incandescent light and a way to mount it to your weapon’s rail system.
The TVNC and Malkoff Devices units are drop in replacement bulb/reflector assemblies for Surefire P series bulbs. They tend to be brighter and more efficient than the incandescent counterparts. With a solid state LED, there is no filament to break, but they do use various driver circuits to power everything.
It’s hard getting past all the options. But like you mentioned, something like taking a Vltor mount and adding a Surefire 6P would be a great place to start.
As a side note, for your 100 yard goal, and in Alabama where dark and foggy conditions are common, you need a pretty powerful light to cut through the haze.
Thanks for the links the malkoff device looks very interesting and its made in AL What lumen range would you recommend? I noticed they make a 500 lumen drop in for the SF 6P :eek::D:cool:
Depends on what you are wanting to do with the light, and the characteristics of that particular light.
For mounting on a long gun, think about your uses of said gun. For lighting up rooms inside a house at night, much more than 200-ish lumens is probably overkill and will give you a greater chance at self blinding off walls/mirrors. In my house, lights rated in the 100-120 lumen range are fine.
If you need to shoot predators off your chicken coop at 100 yards at night, you’ll need more light, but more importantly, you’ll need a good reflector to send a useful beam of light that far.
Get a 6P or G2 or something and give it a try first, then dig around and find what works for you. It would be a good place to start, and give you a baseline if you are unfamiliar with various lights. You might find you really want a 9V light with a turbohead for outdoors use. Or maybe a smaller light like a scoutlight with a KL4 and it’s wall of light to illuminate your basement.
I’ve got a 2 cell Surefire E-series (E2DL) with a single mode head (KX2C, 120 lumens). I can’t imagine needing or wanting anything brighter than this for HD/across the lawn distances, as it will light up the opposite tree line from anywhere on my property. Those new optics in the Surefire E2DL/E2L/E1L/E1B/L1 are absolutely phenomenal. This is the same basic setup as Surefire’s M620C scoutlight, but without the QD mount and tapeswitch - and it cost me almost $300 less.
when you buy the new and mount it,then can I have your old set up???
It would only be for out side use. I have a streamlight mx3 if I remember correctly it is rated at 110 lumen which is plenty of light for inside work.
You say reflectors are important if you need distance in your light will the SF 6V turbo head http://www.surefire.com/6V-TurboHead-Conversion-Black
Work with a malkoff devise?
If I had an old set up I would Only thing I have is a streamlight mx3 that I have to hide from my wife:p
I hear you .UPS dropped a package from brownells at my door and the wife found it :eek:I got a good spanking:)
I second Chooie’s statement. The “E” series lights are amazing. Though, the dual-output has caused issues for some, this can be corrected with a different head.
I’ve had the E2DL, and an E1B; both are amazing lights, in compact, lightweight packages.
Here’s an example of what can be done with the E1B and a VTAC mount.
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=33719
I believe the KX2 head is what is required in order to turn the E1B into a single-stage light.
Currently I have the E1B as a dedicated weaponlight, just for the party of it, and it remains to be seen how it performs under testing. Overall, the beam is more white than the typical LED purple, and has the potential to be the smallest, lightest weaponlight around.
If any problems arise in its current configuration, I will spring for the KX2 head, or run a G2 in tandem with the E1B as backup.
Do you have any issues with the tailcap switch?
Negligent Light Discharges? No, but it could be easy in the configuration shown in the photo. The mounting position in the picture could lend itself to such if using a “proper” grip on the VFG.
Chicken-choker grip, illustrated below, reduces the possibility:
Mounted on the top of the RIS, the likelihood of irresponsibly nudging the tailcap goes down. Another fix could be to bump the VFG back a hair. This setup is “experimental”, as, if the E1B works out as such, I may try and keep it as a weaponlight.
Which reminds me, slightly off-topic, why is it that very seldom do I see any of the SF bezel/beam covers used?
The KX2 unit is also a two stage light with the programming in the LED head. I’m not a fan of the two click system for dim then bright. I like the A2 and LX2 style button better (push harder for brighter).
I’m kinda partial to the KX2C single stage head that comes with the scout lights. Now I need a guidebook for surefire parts… sigh…