I just paid $500 for a new in the box Kimber Custom II. Now I know what your thinking. These things are a big gamble, and you would be right. I was helping out a buddy that needed some cash and I thought I would help him out. This gun will be strictly a learning tool. I have several Glocks that I use for CCW, so thats covered. I’m going to use this thing to learn about what makes these things tick. I love 1911’s but know that other guns fill the self defense roll much better. I want to upgrade the mim parts and sights. Im looking for opinions on what would be the best way to go about this. The goal is to make a bad ass blaster that I can take to hell and back. If thats even possible. A little afraid of getting in over my head, but willing to give a shot.
Start with the simple things. Like is the feed ramp cut long enough? Is the barrel ramp rolled at the top edge (and polished)? Is the top of the barrel hood polished? How is the fit between the barrel ramp and the feed ramp?
Is the mag catch adjusted and fitted properly? Plunger tube staked? Does the extractor have the proper tension?
Once some of the basic reliability things are cleared, then I would start at replace the MIM parts.
Good luck!
C4
First, make sure you strip it and clean it and lube it well. Then get some 230gr Winchester White Box FMJ (or any decent factory 230gr FMJ) and go shoot it. Do you have previous 1911 experience?
Two common problems on Kimbers to look for include the Series 2 safety not fully unblocking the firing pin and “barrel bump,” which are dings on the front of the barrel’s lower lugs caused by the lugs hitting the slide stop pin.
Sounds like a worthwhile project especially for $500. The first pistol I ever bought myself was a Custom II (external extractor no less!)when I turned 21. Paid $525 back then. After a few hiccups at first the gun has been flawless every since even with all of the original parts. Gun is up over 10,000 rounds now. I do wish that Kimber had better quality control and parts selection since they do make a very good looking 1911 for the most part. If you can pick one up for a song and fix what is wrong with it they can be a decent gun.
Yes. I have had several in the past. Including a series one Kimber. Have had a couple Colts and a Springfield. I got rid of them couple years ago and wish I hadn’t. I have no problem detail stripping them and doing the simple stuff.
Thanks for the input guys. I have 250 problem free rounds down range so far. It had been detailed stripped and cleaned. Now the fun begins.
What is the best way to get around the evil safety system?
On the only series 2 Kimber I have, I replaced the rear sight and the safety parts in the slide were lost in the process.
So is it as simple as just removing them? If thats the case I will remove them when I change out the rear sight.
its a very good start for $500, if kimbers were a $500 -$600 gun to begin with some of their issues would be understandable
I hope you have a good sight pusher because Kimber fixed sights are tough to get out.
Cut a groove across the top of the rear sight above the center of the dovetail almost down to the base then remove them if it is really giving you a problem.
The simplest work around the Schwartz safety I have seen is to use a Series 70 firing pin. This is because the series 70 does not have the cutout on the shaft to allow the Schwartz safety to drop in and block it.
Where did you hear this? That would be a very simple “fix.”
As of yesterday I have 700 problem free rounds down range. So far so good. Will probably start ordering internals to keep around so that if I have any problems I can address them.
I was looking at the LAV Blueforce parts. How much fitting should I expect?
Can’t remember where I heard of it but this “fix” has been around for a while. It’s what we used to do to disable the Schwartz safety when they first came out.
It worked back then and I don’t know why it still wouldn’t work today.
Notice how the Schwartz Safety firing pin has a notch like the series 80 firing pins?
A pic of the series 80 FP on top and the series 70 fp on the bottom. Note the series 70 does not have the machined notch.
