I think it would have been good on an in spec castle nut. The staking notch on yours appears to be wider than 0.84 + 0.020 though.
I did not see this on your website, only the B5 option. Is it available yet? Do you have a link or photo?
Hell ya, I don’t believe half the shit I’ve heard come out of some dealer’s mouths.
Prototype, the shop used some nut to secure the ESF and RE to the receiver. A castle nut will come flush with the rear of the ESF.
Rapid prototype with CNF and Vltor A5 RE.
We’ll be making a 2 lug wrench for the ESF. Since 1/4 of the castle nut is masked by the QD sockets housing, on rare occasions, not all three wrench notches are presented for torquing. Our short 2 lug castle nut wrench works on any castle nut.
If the ESF looks familiar, it’s because KAC, LWRC have done it already. ESF has a rear facing socket, which on the face of it doesn’t sound like much, but took considerable tweaking to make possible. ESF will allow the use of a castle nut and for the carbine stock to fully collapse.
Design calls for 7075 anodized for ESF’s material, we’re still looking at steel and its higher cost as an option.
Cool, thanks for the pic.
I think that would have been a good stake if the castle nut was correct. The notch isn’t letting metal displace effectively. The notch is so shallow where it touches the endplate that no metal gets to where it would interfere with rotation.
Up to you if you want to redo it. If the castle nut was torqued properly to 40 foot pounds it will probably never ever loosen. But if probably isn’t good enough, buy a milspec nut or Duffy’s nut and re do it.
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That’s a good looking stake right there. Wonder why whoever made these out of spec nuts made them that way, it’s probably cheaper to cut a 45 degree notch than that oval depression. Probably MIM or investment cast so it doesn’t matter. Still, why not do it right?
You’re good. Quit worrying.
Duff - do the scallops have a purpose or for aesthetics? As far as castle nuts go, it is a nice looking nut. 
:nono: :nono::nono:
Usually when I see a long line of posts from knowledgeable members, including our Industry Professionals, and last but not least a guy who TEACHES Armorer Courses, and they are all saying that the staking is substandard… Well I reckon you can probably take it to the bank that it is in fact substandard.
But you are new and don’t have many posts, so I doubt anyone will bust your chops for your lame answer. 
The coarse serrations in the form of short and shallow scallops are a single use feature. I got tired of using the sharp wrench notches for serrations when I rotate the nut towards the receiver so I made sure ours would have some kind of aid.
As you can see in the prototype (upper pic), the scallops are shorter in the production model (lower pic), the scallops drew too much attention and I toned them down. Probably the first time in the firearms business where a company intentionally tried to make things look more drab 
It depends, are you hitting the deck in a firefight? Buttstroking someone? Making a combat jump into Zaire? All those activities could place enough torsional stress on the joint that the stake would actually be needed to keep the castle nut from loosening.
Seriously, try to get a little more displacement with the second stake and you should be GTG.
I don’t like re-staking an endplate the marks from the first stakes are just off putting to me, so I use a new one. Only a couple bucks unless you are rolling a QD endplate.
Get a little more displacement on the other one and it will be fine.
ETA: take a picture of the second one and post it, that will give me an excuse to come in and check the computer in about an hour. It’s too dang hot for me to be digging and setting forms.
This thread made me go over and check my AR with a similar castle nut. My stakes aren’t much better so I am going to move some more metal and call it good. I have expensive QD plates so I won’t be shooing for pretty this time, only functional. I wasted about $60 trying to get those internet pretty stakes. I use the wasted money stakes to practice my hammer and stake skills on. ****. I am bad at this. I need IG to come to Michigan soon.
Jaysus, just go shoot the fracking thing.
He can just go shoot it, I do applaud that the OP asks about it, maybe some members learned something they didn’t know before. Speaking for myself, every time Iraqguns has an opinion, it’s a learning opportunity, and for free.
I had mostly seen these ridiculous castle nuts on DD ARs, and my opinion of them has always been “shallow oval depression a staking notch does not make” In spec notches are angled for good reasons, whether the original designers realized it or not. A shallow depression makes it hard to displace material from the end plate to the “notch”. All the while, I don’t think a properly made castle nut, (doesn’t have to be 4140 PH billet, black nitrided castle nut expensive and over built) doesn’t cost more to make than these out of spec castle nuts. So why not do it right, unless they’re in the same category as Strike Industries that don’t shoot or know the weapon they’re ruining.
To me, that’s like telling someone to just buy a PSA and go shoot it. “it’s just as good as it goes bang every time I’ve ever used it.”
Several of mine looked the same as well. Time to stake.
Not gonna know if you don’t put it through the wringer…
Experience…it’s the slow internet.
Staking is to ensure the nut doesn’t unduly come undone. Having several old style locking rings come loose, I hate these things, it’s hard to torque them and there’s no way to stake them.
Staking the castle nut in two places is a good idea, something some manufacturers still haven’t come to appreciate as important. As end users, folks can do as they wish with their property. Unstaked castle nut out of the factory is inexcusable.