Hey guys new here so if this has been answered somewhere please bear with me I haven’t found it. I’m looking to replace my 6 pos RRA stock with a CTR and figured I’d go ahead and switch to a milspec tube while I’m at it, I mean why not . Anyway, I have found VLTOR, LMT and CMT/Stag tubes and wondered if one is any better than the others or if they are all Milspec if they are the same. I know the VLTOR is 5 pos and is marked, but are there any other differences, and have I excluded any? I haven’t been able to find any Colt tubes. Any way thanks for any info you care to share.
-RD62
P.S. I’m just looking for the tube, I have a couple of buffers, nuts and end plates laying around.
Can’t speak for the CMT tube, but my LMT is 6 pos where as the VLTOR is 5 pos like you stated. IIRC you can buy tubes that are extended in length too. Other than pos # & length, the only other differences I can think of would be price & maybe material? You may want to go to an online shop & look at the pics for each tube offered & see if you can tell the differences that way. I do that on occasion when I’m needing visual comparison on an item I’ve never used & it helps. Good luck.
If I was paying for it I’d go LMT. The threaded end has the nice lip on it. Also, the latest induration of LMT’s tubes have a nice slick coating and drain holes in the last three position holes.
They fit well, have numbers on top of the tube for the stop numbers, and the spacing of the 5 stops is perfect for me. I shoot my Magpul CTR w/VLTOR tube ARs at click 3 (2nd click from all the way closed).
I was planning on ordering one from you when I decided. Would it be possible to post pictures of the differences of finish you are speaking of? And I guess there isn’t one any stronger than another, just variation in finish and # of pos. Thanks for all the input so far guys!
It’s hard to see it from the pics but the VLTOR does have a ‘lip’, the lip consists of the entire 1/2 of the threaded end of the tube. Here’s some pics of 2 different lowers with VLTOR 5pos tubes. The lip is just less than 1/16" longer than the top edge of the tube, you can see it in the pics a little better on my wifes lower.
Thanks for the pics. I see the lip. What is it’s purpose? And I hate to be a pain but any chance to see pics of the exterior of the tube, like how the finish matches the receiver? Thanks for the help!
Here are pics of my Vltor club foot model kit with Vltor tube and hardware.
Vltor’s finish is very black, the best I’ve seen on most buffer tubes.
It matches my '04 model Colt 6721 upper receiver but not my lower, my lower is a very dark gray-black which is a normal AR anodizing mismatch that all the makers have.
one of the biggest diffrences in mil spec tubes and commercial is the diameter of the tube its self…i would imagine some materials as well but dont know for sure Rob
Nice rifle! And, thanks for the pics of the match between tube and receivers. That’s what I was looking for! Anyone got pics of the others? It looks like the VLTOR may be the way to go!
In my original build I had Steve put on the full Vltor clubfoot kit and the Tangodown PR4 multi position sling mount. I decided to change to the LMT SOPMOD stock, at the same time changed the sling mount to one of DD’s QD rear position sling mount since that seemed to be the only hole I used on the TD. We originally tried just using the Vltor tube as it was already on (good for Steve) and looked much nicer (good for me). The Vltor may have a lip but it doesn’t stick out nearly as far as the LMT. Consequently the castle nut wouldn’t engage the threads so we ended up using the LMT tube.
Hey Grant, how about Cerakoting some of the LMT tubes?
Hey, while I’m thinking about it, what is the best way to stake the nut? I built my rifle and when it came time to stake the original RRA nut I tried a punch (which broke), a screwdriver (which deformed), and a nail set. None of which succeded in staking the nut. I couldn’t get any real metal to displace.
This is probably good now that I am thinking of replacing the stock, but I want to stake the new one when the time comes. I’ve never had the current one come loose, but I’ve been reading GotM4’s posts and now I feel guilty!
J/K.
Anyway, any tips? Haven’t seen any specialty tools for the job. Anyone know what the .mil uses?
Maybe I’m just going to easy, but I’ve taken several whacks at it. (Sorry couldn’t resist)
You guys have been great about sharing your knowledge and experience and I appreciate you helping me out.
The lip holds the buffer detent in well. On cheap or old CAR recevier extensions you sometimes had to trim down the top edge so that the upper would close on the lower. If you didn’t and didn’t have the receiver extension on tight enough the buffer detent and spring would auto-eject inside the lower. VLTORs finish is a nice deep black.
Thanks for the explaination and pictures. I guess I never played with the tube enough to realize that there was even a lip there, but it sure makes sense. I think I’ll be looking for a new punch too!