Intro/First BUild

AR/M4 AR General Discussion
1

Hey all, Long time lurker, finally decided to pull the trigger and join to get some feedback on my build. I live in the great tater state of Idaho and love the AR/M4 platform, that said I’m relatively new to building them though I have experience sending lead down range. I would love some feed back on my parts list before the build gets underway, so let me know if anything sucks. Compliments to all the members and the site for a great black rifle community.

Lower Parts:
Noveske Chainsaw Lower
DD LPK
Tango Down battle grip
Mil spec buffer tube with H buffer
UBR stock
Magpul ASAP

Upper Parts:
BCM Middy 14.5" upper
BCM Lo-Pro gas block
Noveske KX3? Battlecomp 1.5?
Larue 13.2 rail
BCM BCG
BCM Gunfighter charging handle
Troy BUIS
Tango Down stubby grip
Aimpoint Comp M3 or Micro T1

2

Go with the Battle Comp and T1.

3

I apologize for the double post, I didn’t see my last post had been moved. Newbie mistake I guess, however I appreciate feed back and you will see I have changed my mind on some parts. thanks again.

4

Sounds overall like a good set up. The ubr stock and larue rail will add some weight. Whats the purpose of the gun?

5

This gun will be used in several classes hopefully, I just want a quality BR that I can depend on. I like the look of the Larue rail however, if some body can suggest something different that will be more practical by all means, I would love to hear what you all have to say.

6

If you are going to use this in classes you want to lower the weight. I would look at other rails. Drop the ubr and get a moe stock, you can always buy something different down the road.

As for optics, micro aimpoint all the way and get the BC not the pig.

7

I would go light profile barrel and maybe a lighter rail if it will be a true carbine.

Something like a CTR, MOE or Vltor stock might still give you a good cheek weld and save weight.

8

Appreciate the input brother, I’m thinking about going with a modular rail, however with my ape arms I would like to keep it long, any suggestions on a lighter rail system? How does a SOPMOD stock sound? I would like to keep a heavier profile barrel for accuracy and temperature issues, however if I’m misinformed correct me.

9

Noveske NSR, Samson/Rainier Arms Evo rail, VTAC are all good options for tubes.

Would go with another stock. Plenty to choose from:

-Magpul ACS/STR/CTR/ACS-L

-Vltor EMOD (one of personal favs)/IMOD

-B5 SOPMOD (other favorite)

Aimpoint PRO is the best deal going now for an RDS

Battlecomp over the KX3. Better choices than KX3 for your barrel length

Speaking of barrel length. Ditch the 14.5 and get a 16. By your post I assume you’re new to this game. Nothing permanent. Trust me. You’ll thank me later.

Good luck

-Jax

10

Much appreciated, I had the VLTOR Emod in mind and I think I’ll go with it. As far as the tube I really like to Noveske NSR, as far as length 13.5? 12? 11? And the price is good to go. Will you give me some specifics of why I should ditch the 14.5 barrel (I trust your word) I would just like to know the info behind it. Thanks again to all for the input

11

The rainier evo is super light and locks up great.

12

Ive got the NSR 13.5 and love it.

As far as the barrel goes look at your question about the muzzle device.

What if you decide to get the 14.5 and the muzzle is pinned. Well some new super ninja black ops uber device comes out and you want to try it out on THIS gun. See my point.

An argument can also be made for the reliability advantage of a 16 over a 14.5 but I am not going there.

The main thing is to keep your opinions open when first delving into this stuff. With a pinned FH, Comp, whatever, you limit your choices. Not to mention one more example:

I bought a Centurion rail or a Rainier Arms tube which uses a stock barrel nut. Well I’ve decided I dont like Rainier’s because it doesnt match my purse or the Centurion rail messes with my manicure and Ive decided to try Noveseke’s NSR.

The NSR has a proprietary barrel nut that requires the removal of the muzzle device and gas block.

-Jax

13

Point well taken brother and I appreciate it. I will got with the 16" with a BC 1.5. How is installation with the NSR?

14

Don’t need the 1.5 BC with the 16":wink: Just the 1.0

Installation is easy with the NSR. You have to time the barrel nut just right to line up the tube correctly but its a snap. Make sure you get a gas block small enough to fit underneath that little handguard. I used a vltor set screw gas block and it worked fine.

-Jax

15

Alright I believe everything is squared away, now I can order parts. Thank you everyone for the info it’s much appreciated. I will keep you all posted with pictures of the progress I make throughout the build.

16

It should shape up to be a very nice rifle. I wholeheartedly agree with jaxman’s recommendations of a 16" barrel, NSR, and BC 1.0.

I know its mostly a personal preference thing, but will also highly recommend a B5 SOPMOD stock.

What part of Idaho are you from?

17

That is my hope too, and if finances cooperate it should come together soon.

I’m in southeast Idaho in the tiny town Rigby, its between Rexburg and Idaho Falls.

What’s the advantage of the B5, I’m still open for suggestions and would love some info from those with some trigger time behind it.

18

The UBR is a great stock, but it is heavy. If you do decide to get it, don’t buy a Mil-spec buffer tube because the UBR comes with a RE.

19

Thanks for the input brother, but I think I have ruled out the UBR for this build. As far as the Emod and B5 go, is the Emod worth the extra cash? They both appear to be SOPMOD style stocks so I am assuming the cheek weld will be similar.

20

Things I learned:

Use an A2 until you have a reason not to.
Use a standard M4 Stock until you know why you don’t want to (or a B5)
Skip the rail until you know you why you need it.
Aimpoint PRO will save you some coin.

Why not just shave the FSB instead of the gas block?