So, I have one Dirty Harry that has been fired twice at the factory. I don’t shoot it. The guy sent it in the factory box, in a priority BAG, and the box got all effed up. But still the gun is amazing and the blueing is stunning. Thats number one.
I recently went on a Cowboy gun run. I cant afford a Colt in 45LC, so I bought a .22 and .22mg New Fronteer it had never been fired but didn’t have box and papers so I’m shooting it. I bought another with all the box and papers etc. Its never been fired either. Im going to dedicate that one to safe queen for my Grandsons one day.
How do you preserve these guns best. A friend suggested Renaissance, Micro wax cream. Its like a polish.
What says you guys? Any feedback much appreciated.
Hey fck tard, what are you talking about? Your post makes no sense. And adds no value, next time your brain shuts down, stay off the keyboard. One more little prick that is emboldened by a keyboard.
Take a look at break free collector. It’s a preservative oil, supposed to be for storage purposes. It’s the only thing that stopped my 870 from producing brown rags every cleaning. That plus being in AZ should have you covered.
A lot depends on your area if it is humid and has temperature changes that would require more protection. I have guns bought new in the early 1970’s that have been stored in a temp and humidity controlled environment, and all of my guns have stayed in new condition. Once a year I try to get them out and put oil on them.
I use silicone gun socks/sleeves on my keepers PB.
Have some collecter revolvers like yours and a few old Winchester lever guns/shotguns that never get shot in the safe and socks and they’ve been fine for years.
You are correct, my brain did shutdown/skip over the part about leaving the 22 for your Grandsons. I got fixed on the first firearm mentioned and what to put on it. I didn’t read second paragraph with full attention. However, the response was a little over the top.
Here’s a good article on firearms preservatives. I personally use Weapon’s Shield myself but have been thinking of going to the WD40 Rust Preventative because it outlasted everything else just about according to this test.
Also for true long term storage if you’re worried about corrosion, you might consider pulling the stocks off and storing them separately. The potential to trap moisture between the wood/plastic/rubber etc and the steel frame is there otherwise.
My apologies for my harsh response. But I was quite perplexed about my death and my wife remarrying… I thought it was over the top itself, if no mal intent, we are all good. Have a great weekend.
I’d clean and coat w/ Birchwood-Casey ‘Barricade’ (used to be called ‘Sheath’) but for ultra long-term, and you aren’t going to touch it - Rig grease. But a good golder rod or heater in your safe is a definite need.
For that S&W - get a factory letter. I had one 4-screw S serial#, 6-1/2” made in 57 or 58. A factory letter by Roy Jenks valued it at $2,800 but the best offer I ever got was a good $600 less than that. By the way, the earliest boxes were
black, not the wooden ones.
I personally have no experience with this wd40 corrosion inhibitor, so I don’t know if or how it differs from wd40. What I do know, is that wd40 will eat bluing over time and repeated application.
I have used the old Birchwood casey sheath, with good results.
Mostly now, I use ballistol for a preservative. It doesn’t dry out. It is slightly alkaline, and so it neutralizes the acids from handling. It will also lubricate and clean, both smokeless an BP powder residue, so you can use it for everything.
Be careful about storing in things like cases lined with cloth or foam, and socks. They will absorb moisture and hold it, rusting the gun into place. Foam breaks down, bonding to the metal. If using these, you’ll need to keep them dry.
I don’t much care for anything you have to shake well first.
If it’s still liquid on your gun, and it separates in the bottle, why won’t it separate on/in your gun?
I believe as long as the environment has low humidity and you keep the pistol wiped down with any good gun oil you will be fine. I say this because my old PPC distinguished service revolver, a S&W Model 19 with 6" barrel, has sat in my safe in a case practicality unused for well over 20 years. I occasionally take it out and wipe it down with a cloth and a fine coat of oil. There is not a hint of rust anywhere and the blued finish is like new.
I have heard that Boeshield T9 works well for long term gun storage. So far it has kept various sharp implements and a set of steel Lyman bullet molds rust free for over a year in my unheated reloading shed. It also appears that normal solvent will remove it.
I have a few guns that don’t see much use. I plan on trying it on them next.
I’ve heard good things about zCorr VCI bags. Now it’s called Blueguard VCI. Supposedly, no need to use RIG or Cosmoline, or a golden rod in a safe. I’ve had several pieces of expensive cutlery stored in old Bianchi Blue Bags well past its 3 year service life and kept in my basement. Not particularly damp but not arid either, and no corrosion yet, although they are also not blue steel.
