How To Pull Off a Decent "Rattle-Can Camo-Job"

I decided to take the leap of camoing my carbine a few days ago, and I couldn’t be happier. But this is not always the case. Many times, an enthusiastic spray painter will rush into the project and be absolutely appalled by what comes out the other end. I know this, because the last time I tried camoing my gun, I spent days painstakingly scraping paint out of every nook and cranny on my carbine. :eek:

A few simple things to remember. Cover anything you don’t want sprayed with tape. This includes flashlight lenses, optic lenses, sight posts, rear apertures, etc.

Keep the spray paint away from the internals of the gun. No one is going to be looking inside your magwell. :wink:

And perhaps most importantly: TEST YOUR PAINT FIRST! Also, remember to shake the can, this should go without saying, but in the hype to get your carbine done, you don’t want to forget a critical step.

Here’s a quick demo of my technique, using some Pmags.

This is all the materials you should need. I have 3 types of paint, an a darker olive, almost Ranger Green paint, a lighter, foilage-green-esque paint, and a khaki paint. Also, you’ll notice the grass clippings, twigs, and leaves. These will be used to create a stencil effect later on.

First, apply the darkest color you have, in my case its olive. This may be somewhat counter-intuitive, but remember, we are layering on paint here, so the lighter colors (that will break up the outline most) should be more prevalent, and therefore, on top layers. By using them in the top layer of the stencil, you will achieve the appearance of a lighter base layer, with darker objects laying upon it.

After that dries, you are ready to start adding lighter layers. Remember to let each layer dry, so that the paint will not smear, or puddle along sharp lines.

Put down some foilage to create a stencil effect. I use a variety of grass clippings, twigs, and leaves to get different shapes.

The next layer done is the next lightest, in my case, the lighter green paint was used.

Simply repeat the stencil effect, being sure to move around the pieces to cover and reveal new spots to the next layer of paint.

For the final coat, I used the khaki/light brown color, as it tends to be the most universally blending in brush/dead leaves. There’s a reason why deer are brown.:smiley:

You can see the final effect produces layers of differing outlines, with each layer having its own camo pattern in effect.

Here’s a shot of the carbine that I camo’d a few days ago.

You can see where the paint is peeling along the lines of handling, edges, corners, etc. This isn’t duracoat folks, but it is cheap, and it will last until you simply spray it again.

A little disclaimer here, I’m by no means an expert on camo, or even spray painting your rifle, but I did get enough compliments on the camo job that I hope I can help someone out there work up their courage, grab some krylon, and get to work, making a finished product that they can be proud of. :cool:

That came out well. Nice work.

Did you use anything to degrease before painting?

I just used hot, soapy, water on the outside of the mags/gun. Mainly I just tried to make sure that lube wasn’t dripping out of the upper/lower receiver gap.

Anyone ever use some type of clear coat after a rattle can job? Curious if you could use krylon to get the camo affect then maybe spray with duracoat clear to make it more durable.

Thanks for the primer. This oughta be stickied, too, or included in the other AR-know-how topic.

Quick question: you suggested starting with the darkest color as the base and using the lighter colors to break up the darker color. My (limited) understanding of camouflaging colors was that it the reverse was preferable; starting with the lightest colors and using darker colors to break up the lighter background. Is there any rule to this, or is this something more determined by your AO than anything else?

-B

That’s the thing, you want dark shapes on light background. But since the stenciling effect works by preserving the previous (darker) layer in a section, you achieve the effect of having darker shapes on a lighter, more prevalent “background” which is, in reality, your top layer of paint.

I tried one batch of mags with the khaki first, then spraying on the darker colors. The effect was ruined, basically creating the appearance of light leaves on a dark, olive background. :o

And yes, it would be determined mostly by your AO more than anything else, as would your choice of stenciling materials.

I don’t think there’s any rule to follow, (Dark colors in the foreground VS in the background) other than what you personally want, given the terrain you will most likely be operating in. The cool thing about Krylon is, if you don’t like it or change environments, you can paint it again and touch up when needed.

Just look at my pics and you will know everything you need to make a PERFECT camo job. :smiley:

Ooooh. Gotcha. Didn’t register the first time, but I understand now. Thanks.

-B

I like it. I think that green in the middle is what I painted my FUG with.

I like to finish my paintjobs with two coats of matte clearcoat. I’m not sure how much it really adds in terms of durability, but it has to help a little.

I cant even FIND Krylons Camo system here anymore

Wal-Mart doesnt have 'em, neither does Home Depot or Lowes anymore

I had my local “Trusty Value” type store order it for me. They did it no extra charge.

Bad Luck…
I got mine at Wal-Mart…OD, Khaki, and Brown at about 5 bucks a can…

They can be scarce and limited to colors available. I bought some from brownels (There own brand) a few weeks ago to redux mine. Much better color selection. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=126/Product/CAMO_PAINTS

Aervoe is not Brownells brand they are their own company. It is pretty decent paint though. I bought a can of the earth red and it worked pretty good.

so you just degrease then masking tape the magwell, sights, bore and spray away? Or do you cover nooks & crannies with something?

Or do you disassemble and spray each part separate?

I just stick a mag in the magwell and spray away.

M4Fundi,

When I do mine I disassemble the main components whenever possible. Basically I remove the rail system, and accessories. I separate the upper and lower and make sure that everything is good an clean. I tape off the items that I don’t want to get paint on and then apply light coats. I tend to piant my mounts and lights separate as well. Once I have the foundation down I will reassemble and then begin applying the other colors in random patterns and colors.

It sounds complicated but I can usually do an AR in just a few hours taking into account dry times. The last two paint jobs I did I used Brownells Aluma-Hyde first and allowed it to cure. Then I assembled everything and added the finishing touches.

Here is another link for the Aervoe paints for those that can’t locate the Krylon or Rustoleum.

http://www.attackopgear.com/product/Camouflage-Paint.html

how good a job are you looking to do? i haven’t taken the time to do a “good” job, so perhaps my experience is limited by that, but IN my experience, the paint wears away and chips away and oil from your gun eats it away, and pretty dang quick.

i fully assemble the weapon, wipe it down with lacquer thinner- which not only strips the metal completely, but also etches the plastic grip and stock nicely. i dont bother masking anything but the optic lenses. puff some FDE here and there… if the stock/handguard/VFG are already FDE, i splash some green or brown or black on them, mist the rest of the gun with green/brown/black, and if i feel like there’s not enough definition i’ll just wipe some areas with lacquer thinner and strip paint off. ugly, and even uglier after a few training sessions, but it takes 15 minutes and camos up the stick.

here’s me carbine.


the fate of all rattlecan jobs.