A buddy of mine was in the shop last week and we were talking about Glock’s and I showed him my GEN 2 G19. He was impressed with the non-gritty “feel” of the trigger. I showed him how I cleaned everything up. He then asked me if I would be doing trigger work on Glock’s. I said no as I just don’t have the time. “That’s too bad he said.”
So the above got me thinking that I should help out my fellow Glock shooters and teach them the basics of a “Home Gunsmith” Glock trigger job.
In this series, we are going to break the Glock trigger down into four different areas. They are; trigger bar, striker block/plunger, connector and striker.
Part one is all about the trigger bar and “reading” what your gun is doing in order to smooth it out.
As most know, stamped metal have high points all along the edges. These high points contact the other high points and create uneven wear patterns. This is what gives most triggers that “gritty” feel.
First, we want to remove those high spots and make all surfaces square and true. In order to do this, we are going to need some stones. For me personally, I like the Boride stones, but you can use ceramic or India stones.
The issue with the Glock trigger bar is that you need to be able to get a stone into some tight places. This is why I like the man made Boride stones. They come in all kinds of shapes and sizes and make one that is perfectly sized for this job.
I like the CS-HD 1/8 X 1/4 X 6 400gr and 600gr. These stones really don’t need lubricant (but you can always use it) and work well on harder metals. They are located here: http://www.moldshoptools.com/catalog/list.php?category_id=74
It also isn’t a bad idea to pick up some wider and thicker stock for more grunt work. So for those, I would look at something around 1/4 X 1/2 X 6 in 400gr & 600gr.
Personally, I like to take my work up to 900gr (with a stone), but you do not have to do this. If you do, you can order a 1/8 X 1/4 X 6 900gr stone here: http://www.moldshoptools.com/catalog/list.php?category_id=78
For lubricants, I use this (and store the stones in it): http://www.moldshoptools.com/catalog/list.php?category_id=127
Starting out, remove the trigger bar from your gun. Pay close attention to where the “rub” marks are on it. Below are some examples of a GEN 2 17’s trigger bar.
Notice the shiny spots. This is where the “taller” rolled edges are grinding.
Notice the pitting and rough tool marks.
Trigger bar and stones used.
Starting out, we are going to use the 400 stone. You can also go right to the 600, but “leveling” the metal will just take longer. The goal here is to make the ENTIRE surface area the same (no shiny spots).
On the “crucifix” part of the trigger bar, we are going to remove the high spots from East/West from the “arm” section.
Here we see that we are getting closer to polishing the middle section.
Treat this edge as if it was a knife blade. Draw it towards you as you roll it (do not create a flat surface here).
This is where the perfect size of the 1/8X1/4 stones come in.
This edge on the “crucifix” is not square to the rest of the area so watch your angle here.
