I changed the springs in my Bushmaster ORC and polish the trigger. The trigger now is about 4 lbs. and chrisp. Now the but monkey rears it head. It has some annoying creap then it’s ready to go. How can elimnate the creap without harming the hardened surfaces of the trigger?
Unlike my Remingtons there is no adjustment on this trigger that I could tell and rightfully so I would imagine. This is my first M4/AR15.
Typically people who want a precision type trigger replace the trigger group with an aftermarket assembly.
Trigger CREEP is somewhat inherent to the standard AR trigger group. Most people just let the stock parts smooth themselves out over a few hundred rounds.
If you’re running a precision optic and need a really nice trigger, a Geiselle or whatever may be your best bet.
When I do standard triggers I just do a very small amount of polishing to smooth out the creep that is going to be there, its pretty much designed into the trigger to be there as there is a lot of engagement between the hammer and trigger. A little dab of grease can help smooth it out too. I did one with lapping compound once to try and smooth it out and just ended up eventually getting a drop in unit.
If you like to tinker as I do, you could experiment with the following. I chased the grip screw threads with a tap to extend those threads all the way up into the fire control group housing. The manufacturer of my lower had left about 3/8" of the hole untapped. The grip screw hole comes out right underneath the rear of the trigger on my AR. I then installed a short set screw into those threads so that I could adjust it with an allen wrench through the grip screw hole. You end up having to remove some material from the top of the rear of the trigger so that the selector (safe v. fire) works and so you can remove enough pretravel to make this mod work to its optimal effect. You’ll also need a slightly shorter grip screw for when you reinstall your grip. I was able to find the correct threaded set screw and grip screw from Fastenal for a total of $1.00. A new tap for these standard threads cost me $4.00 at a local hardware store.
It takes plenty of trial and error to figure out where the set screw is best set at, but it can be done. The set screw pushes the rear of the trigger up slightly, and by doing so, the pretravel gets removed. There is a balance that has to be found in doing this. If you remove too much pretravel, you could end up creating a situation where the trigger won’t reset, and thus could accidentally double or worse. Or, if you remove too much material from the top of the trigger for the selector to work with all of the pretravel removed, but then later realize your set screw is too high for reliable resets, your selector may not work when you have to lower the rear of the trigger some as there would be too big of a gap between the selector and the top of the rear of the trigger. In other words, if you go too far in your trial and error, you may ruin a part. Once the material is removed, it can’t be put back on. A replacement DPMS trigger, however, is only around $10.00. I suppose you could instead remove material from the selector instead of the top of the trigger, but I didn’t go that route. Replacement selectors may be cheaper than replacement triggers.
I had read some reports somewhere that a guy was tuning triggers by putting some jb weld under the rear of the trigger, and then sanding it down to the right height to remove the pretravel. This set screw mod works the same way as that jb weld mod, but this is a lot easier to tune. The Superior Arms lowers were also brought to my attention by someone because they include a set screw already in the lower. I’ve never seen one in person so I don’t know whether the set screw in the SA lower is just in the grip screw hole or elsewhere.
Your results may vary, and I’m not recommending you do this. I’m just reporting what worked for me.
Good luck,