Glock reductions: Three Part Series

General Firearms Handguns - Semi Auto
1

I figured that I would post a little “how-to” with pics. This is not “the” way, just the way that I do it. To start, here’s what you need:

Acraglas gel kit including
resin
hardner
dye (for whatever color your frame is)
release agent
popsicle sticks
syringes
mixing cup
painters tape
modeling clay
glock frame
cleaner/degreaser

First you want to strip your glock of all the trigger parts. Fill the bottom of the trigger housing with the clay so that you seal up the hole that connects into the backstrap. The clay should be visible when viewed through the bottom of the backstrap.


Next you need to scuff up the inside of the backstrap, use files, rods, sandpaper, etc. This will help the epoxy bond to the surface.


When finished scuffing the interior, flush the inside of the baskstrap with degreaser and let dry.

Tape off the end of the magwell on the backstrap side. Coat the inside of the tape on the backstrap side with release agent. This acts as a removable dam for the epoxy.


Now you begin mixing the Acraglass. Scoop equal amount of hardner and resin in the mixing cup. Mix for 2 minutes.

After two minutes, add the dye. For OD glocks I use white, black, green, and brown. Mix for two minutes.


Put the Acraglass in the syringe, it may help if you trim the tip of the syringe for better flow.

Fill the backstrap up with epoxy. it helps to tamp it down in the bottom with the sticks.


Now you are done filling the strap, let it sit overnight (24 hrs).

2

First, I usually use a verical belt sander to sand the backstrap. As I assume that most would only have a wheel grinder, I will do the backstrap using this tool.

First I make a flat grind on the backstrap to match the line of the front strap to remove the dreaded hump.



Then I rotate the frame to create the new curve on the backstrap. I try to make the new curve match the curve where the web between your thumb and trigger finger is placed.




Next you want to shape the new butt. I try just to make it flush with the frame as you will sand it later by hand.



Next you need to remove the finger grooves. Take extra care removing the first finger groove closest to the trigger guard, This is the thinnest spot due to the mag release spring cutout.



When done your frame should resemble this

If you wish to round of the trigger guard, do that now, other than that, you are finished with part 2.

3

After you have prepped the frame and have the shape that you desire, it is time to stipple the grip. I use a $10 woodburning kit from a hobby shop. I don’t drag the point in but just lightly press it into the frame, each dimple should only take a about 1 second to melt in. With the exposed epoxy, it will not melt so much as burn, I texture it by etching the design in with the woodburning tip.





Once done with the texturing, sand down the textured area until comfortable to grip. You are now finished!

Reassemble the trigger parts and shoot it!

4

After chatting with shark31 via PMs we decided it would be best to merge all three threads into one definitive one. Do to some filters at his work he could not re post in the same thread.

I merged all three into this one and changed the title with his permission. - M4arc

Great thread shark! Thanks for sharing :slight_smile: