Just wanted to post an FYI to anyone interested that Citristrip has worked well for me with two separate ARs removing spray paint without leaving any residual finish. It takes 3 coats for a total of about 30 minutes (coat 1, rinse with hose, coat 2, rinse with hose, coat 3 scrub with toothbrush and rinse) then I soaked the receiver in WD40 and wiped dry.
I’ve used it a few times and always found it to work well, but your pics are impressive! That really looks great. You did a very nice job. How long would you guess it took scrubbing on that last coast?
I feel like a little leaguer that Babe Ruth just said “Nice homer, kid” to…
The scrubbing wasn’t difficult or even too time consuming it was just tedious. What I mean is that you had to make sure you got every nook and cranny. Where the trigger guard meets the receiver (on both ends) was of particular annoyance but it still took no longer than 10 minutes. I did swap out the trigger and it was easier to get in there with it out.
Ten minutes is crazy fast, that is fantastic. That makes total sense pulling the FCG, did you pull the mag catch, or just leave the smaller stuff on there?
Thanks for the DIY info Euro. I’ve stayed away from guns and components that have had a paint job applied due to not knowing a safe method to remove it. Not that big on the rattlecan treatment myself. Nice job!
Yep, it works good. Lots of naysayers probably didn’t try it.
I’ve used it to remove Aervoe. It works fantastically well.
Was wondering the same thing here.
Thanks for the pointer, Euro–it’ll be handy for putting the interim furniture on my C8 build back to “factory spec” if I somehow manage to score the Genuine Article later. 
It did a nice job on those $30 Colt uppers that some of us bought a while back with the hydro dip goop on them. Have to say, those receivers came up really nice.
That’s the LMT you just painted last week right?
I left it all on except for the safety selector and FCG while painting and while stripping.
Yes it is. I threw the upper away because it was a piece of trash though. (Not joking)
Yup, I think I still have 3 or 4 of them sitting here. I might try making one of them nice, even though I bought them just to be ugly beater models.
The MRP CQB is still on my to do list but am getting it cerakoted woodland like I told you about.
It will probably be a pigging gun.
Spray paint is easy but gets kinda sticky and blah.
If it is a gun that is comfy then It gets koted. If I am on the run like dude in Shooter and have to clear my name and murk a rogue Chechen terrorist then yeah spray paint.
But me just pigging is most likely scenario
Citrastrip also makes plastic smell lovely (sarcasm) for weeks. Because of this, and because sunscreen makes paint a gooey mess, I’ve become a fan of colored plastics for grips and stocks.
Ok, on the subject of painting, I am going to be spraying a rifle in Aervoe soon. Do painted pistol grips and stocks ever get sticky/messy when heated up? It’ll be in the Southwest and Texas, so the rifle will be in a lot of direct sunlight. Or am I better off just buying a pre-colored grip and stock? I don’t care about matching or unmatching shades, I just don’t want to deal with paint getting sticky and messy if I could avoid it.
Sorry for the slight derail, if anything I can start a separate thread.
Aervoe is GTG, especially once it is cured, which may take a few days.
^ Thank you sir
Never used Aervoe. Heat doesn’t affect krylon (it will burn off, but not goop, if you do mag dumps or something else dumb). The chemicals in most sunscreens are what turns it into goo. Sunscreen is harder on Krylon than slip 2000 or weaponshield.