I just picked up a Starrett 18C to try to make staking more consistent, cleaner and less of an adventure.
Looking for folks thoughts on this stake job…These are VLTOR A5 components.
I started with the punch backed out to strike lightly, then increased the pressure and went HAM on it.
This is freakin weird. I was just thinking about how stake jobs used to be a common subject on this board a few years ago.
This pic is fine. It’s bending metal to stop the movement of the nut. You should see my messy jobs. I take no pride in making a picture perfect stake.
That’s the tool (spring loaded punch) what this place recommended when I joined and had the same question many moons ago. My initial stakes were functional but not that clean. Good 1st one.
I think I also bought a bolt carrier staking tool from a long time member who made them I think around the same time 2012-2014. Only had to use it a few times for better stakes than delivered bolt carriers, very simple neat tool that will outlast the cockroaches. Haven’t a clue who I bought it from though.
Probably one of Ned’s gas key staking tools, like the one I have, only its a V2 model.
Looks good!
The consistency I’m after is the correct placement.
I’d be happy with that stake. I hate staking because I’m OCD and hate ugly stakes.
I find it unusual that you placed the punch close to the center of the thickness of the end plate, but it seems to have worked well. Most of the staking I’ve seen and therefore what I have tried to copy is closer to the castle nut side, like this. (Not mine, just an image search.)
That Will Larson stake job is perfection.
It takes more work t have it centered but I blew through the edge one time and completely ruined the stake so I’m a little more conservative now.
That is some mighty fine automatic center punch work right there.
I’ve had a few requests to make a tool that is an analog to my (above pictured)MOACKS too, for staking castle nuts. But, there is a place for the creation of a special tool and place to take the easy way out-- as you can see, that Starrett automatic center punch does a great job. It’s worth the extra money to get the actual Starrett one. It’s what I’ve been using and recommending for a couple decades-plus.
The thing you’ll run into sometimes is a very hard receiver end plate. They are not supposed to be glass-hard and I don’t know why anyone would make them that way. Same deal with carrier keys, some are, for an unknowable reason, super hard. In either case it makes staking a bitch. I’ve noticed that some, not all I think, but some, of the hard carrier keys are MIM’d.
Yep, you’re 100% correct, my initial spotting punch was closer to the center than I was hoping for…But, it was my first round with the Starrett so will try to do better at getting it onto the castle nut 1/3 of the end plate on the next attempt.
Dang-nation, if Ned thinks its GTG then color me impressed with myself! 
I’ve yet to run into any gas keys that are too tough for the MOAKSII Ned. But I buy mainly Colt spare parts, so I don’t see a ton of variablity in the one’s I either fix or replace. (Usually because they have those shitty screws and I replace them all with OCKS.)
Nitrided parts (gas keys and end plates) are usually the biggest PITA to stake. Phosphated steel that hasn’t been surface hardened by the nitriding process is FAR easier to stake into.
Alright Disciple, how do these mesh with your sensibilities?
It looks fine to me. Here’s the last one I did for what it’s worth. Sorry for the blurry photos; I’m no Stickman.
Sorry if I missed it, but how are you doing your staking?
ETA: The photos and staking look great. What is that copper stuff?
Thanks! I used a Fowler 52-500-290-0 and the copper is Loctite C5-A.
Thank you.
Yeah staking nitrided parts by does suck
Staking gays. :help:
I’ve run into those hard endplates too. And it was odd considering they were Colt’s no less. They weren’t glass hard like nitride finished end plates, but they were hard enough that when I attempted my usual staking job on them the section I was staking started to cave down between the castle nut and the receiver. Of course after that you have to go through the trouble to change out the end plate do the whole process over again with a new one… It can get pretty frustrating.
Knock on wood, I haven’t run into an overly hard phosphate finished gas key yet and I hope not to. 
Anyways, some end plate staking that I’ve done with the hammer and punch method (3 to 5 light taps), I try not to go overboard and blow through the edge like I see so many do.
