End of story.
as i’ve had occasion to say before: you must not build things for a living.
you dont need to build things for a living to mix a solution and clip two diodes to a piece of metal. this isn’t any more dangerous than any other shop activity. wear rubber, clean up spills, keep the area ventilated, make sure you’re leading from a GFI. pretty fricken simple.
[edit] Process
Preceding the anodization process, wrought alloys are cleaned in either a hot soak cleaner or in a solvent bath and may be etched in sodium hydroxide (normally with added sodium gluconate), ammonium bifluoride or brightened in a mix of acids. Cast alloys are normally best just cleaned due to the presence of intermetallic substances unless they are a high purity alloy such as LM0.The anodized aluminium layer is grown by passing a direct current through an electrolytic solution, with the aluminium object serving as the anode (the positive electrode). The current releases hydrogen at the cathode (the negative electrode) and oxygen at the surface of the aluminium anode, creating a build-up of aluminium oxide. Alternating current and pulsed current is also possible but rarely used. The voltage required by various solutions may range from 1 to 300 V DC, although most fall in the range of 15 to 21 V. Higher voltages are typically required for thicker coatings formed in sulfuric and organic acid. The anodizing current varies with the area of aluminium being anodized, and typically ranges from 0.3 to 3 amperes of current per square decimeter (20 to 200 mA/in²).
Aluminium anodizing is usually performed in an acid solution which slowly dissolves the aluminium oxide. The acid action is balanced with the oxidation rate to form a coating with nanopores, 10-150 nm in diameter.[5] These pores are what allows the electrolyte solution and current to reach the aluminium substrate and continue growing the coating to greater thickness beyond what is produced by autopassivation.[6] However, these same pores will later permit air or water to reach the substrate and initiate corrosion if not sealed. They are often filled with colored dyes and/or corrosion inhibitors before sealing. Because the dye is only superficial, the underlying oxide may continue to provide corrosion protection even if minor wear and scratches may break through the dyed layer.
Conditions such as electrolyte concentration, acidity, solution temperature, and current must be controlled to allow the formation of a consistent oxide layer. Harder, thicker films tend to be produced by more dilute solutions at lower temperatures with higher voltages and currents. The film thickness can range from under 0.5 micrometers for bright decorative work up to 150 micrometers for architectural applications.
The most widely used anodizing specification, MIL-A-8625, defines three types of aluminium anodization. Type I is Chromic Acid Anodization, Type II is Sulfuric Acid Anodization and Type III is sulfuric acid hardcoat anodization. Other anodizing specifications include MIL-A-63576, AMS 2469, AMS 2470, AMS 2471, AMS 2472, AMS 2482, ASTM B580, ASTM D3933, ISO 10074 and BS 5599. AMS 2468 is obsolete. None of these specifications define a detailed process or chemistry, but rather a set of tests and quality assurance measures which the anodized product must meet. BS 1615 provides guidance in the selection of alloys for anodizing. For British defence work, a detailed chromic and sulfuric anodizing processes are described by DEF STAN 03-24/3 and DEF STAN 03-25/3 respectively.
[edit] Chromic acid anodizing
The oldest anodizing process uses chromic acid. It is widely known as Type I because it is so designated by the MIL-A-8625 standard, but it is also covered by AMS 2470 and MIL-A-8625 Type IB. Chromic acid produces thinner, 0.5 μm to 18 μm (0.00002" to 0.0007")[7] more opaque films that are softer, ductile, and to a degree self-healing. They are harder to dye and may be applied as a pretreatment before painting. The method of film formation is different from using sulfuric acid in that the voltage is ramped up through the process cycle.[edit] Sulfuric acid anodizing
Sulfuric acid is the most widely used solution to produce anodized coating. Coatings of moderate thickness 1.8 μm to 25 μm (0.00007" to 0.001")[7] are known as Type II, as named by MIL-A-8625, while coatings thicker than 25 μm (0.001") are known as Type III, hardcoat, or engineered anodizing. Very thin coatings similar to those produced by chromic anodizing are known as Type IIB. Thick coatings require more process control,[5] and are produced in a refrigerated tank near the freezing point of water with higher voltages than the thinner coatings. Hard anodizing can be made between 25 and 150 μm (0.001" to 0.006") thick. Anodizing thickness increases wear resistance, corrosion resistance, ability to retain lubricants, and electrical and thermal insulation. Standards for thin sulfuric anodizing are given by MIL-A-8625 Types II and IIB, AMS 2471 (undyed), and AMS 2472 (dyed). Standards for thick sulfuric anodizing are given by MIL-A-8625 Type III, AMS 2469, BS 5599, BS EN 2536 and the obsolete AMS 2468 and DEF STAN 03-26/1.[edit] Organic acid anodizing
Anodizing can produce yellowish integral colors without dyes if it is carried out in weak acids with high voltages, high current densities, and strong refrigeration.[5] Shades of color are restricted to a range which includes pale yellow, gold, deep bronze, brown, grey, and black. Some advanced variations can produce a white coating with 80% reflectivity. The shade of color produced is sensitive to variations in the metallurgy of the underlying alloy and cannot be reproduced consistently.[2]Integral color anodizing is generally done with organic acids, but the same effect has been produced in laboratory with very dilute sulfuric acid. Integral color anodizing was originally performed with oxalic acid, but sulfonated aromatic compounds containing oxygen, particularly sulfosalicylic acid, have been more common since the 1960s.[2] Thicknesses up to 50μm can be achieved. Organic acid anodizing is called Type IC by MIL-A-8625.
[edit] Phosphoric acid anodizing
Anodizing can be carried out in phosphoric acid, usually as a surface preparation for adhesives. This is described in standard ASTM D3933[edit] Borate and tartrate baths
Anodizing can also be performed in Borate or Tartrate Baths in which aluminium oxide is insoluble. In these processes, the coating growth stops when the part is fully covered, and the thickness is linearly related to the voltage applied.[5] These coatings are free of pores, relative to the sulfuric and chromic acid processes.[5] This type of coating is widely used to make electrolytic capacitors, because the thin aluminium films (typically less than 0.5 μm) would risk being pierced by acidic processes.[1][edit] Plasma electrolytic oxidation
Plasma electrolytic oxidation is a similar process, but where higher voltages are applied. This causes sparks to occur, and results in more crystalline type coatings.
Yep. Sounds pretty simple to me. Exactly like you described it. Oh, wait, I don’t think they mentioned the part about wearing rubber. :rolleyes:
did you actually read what you posted there, or did you just see a long list of technical jargon and assume we would all think that makes it complicated?
i dont see anything in there was describes how to do it, nor anything that nullifies my claims to ease.
and wait a minute- i haven’t made any “claims” anyway- all i’ve done is suggest that this might be something a guy could do in his home shop.
i still think it is.
You’re right. I was spooked by all the big words and “technical jargon”, so I posted it without reading any of it. :rolleyes: But this note on DIY anodizing from the FAQ section at the Aluminum Anodizers Council seems simple enough, even for a special ed kid like me:
http://www.anodizing.org/FAQ/faqs.html
For safety reasons, the Council does not advocate “at home” anodizing, and cannot provide the requested information.
ETA: If you’ll excuse me, I’m going to log off and go assemble an internal combustion engine now. Someone on a car forum told me it was easy.
I know this is an old thread but here’s another solution…
Arredondo’s magwell. No need to worry about re-anodizing.
Pic taken from their site.
yea- and a lot of “councils” dont recommend non-LEOs carry or even own guns. also for “safety” reasons.
do you really think you shouldnt do something because some elitist organization says you shouldnt?
enough of that, and enough of your condescention. you’ve got some kind of ego complex-induced compulsion to criticize things you don’t feel capable of.
if you’re not going to contribute anything to the conversation beyond sarcasm and lame arguments, unsubscribe. your trolling has just cluttered up an otherwise good thread.
I’m a chemist and I would just paint the lower than anodize it again. Of course, I was a paint chemist 
I think we are starting to see who has a home dentistry kit.
I’m surprised that there aren’t more magwells. Pistol mags are smaller, but most have a taper to them to assist insertion and magwells are still common. Seems like it would be a natural option for the Redi-mag products, you’ve got the magwell surrounded already.
Sounds like a job for… Magpul!
i dont have a home dentristry kit. my home surgery kit freaks the wife out enough as it is.
Now there’s a reason for her to stay healthy! I have a feeling she’d just walk-it-out if she burst her appendix.
I’d like to see the youtube video, just to see how it’s done. How violent is the H2 production and such. Is it naturally black?
from what little i know about it, sounds like it’s basically like pouring cold coke over ice… fizzes plenty, but not enough to froth up or anything. i actually considered garbage-bagging the bucket and shooting it with flares afterward. 
I’ve searched this out myself and I’ve never found someone that can partially anodize a part that already has some anodizing in some places.
Thanks for taking me out of context.
I have a problem with permanent modifications that have little gain and alot to lose.
Nevermind the fact that you have spread misinformation in this thread bringing in “home anodizing” into the thread which is not the same anodizing as on a AR15 receiver.
I said “looks like a dumbass” not “are a dumbass”
My point was I wouldn’t go around in our circles with some lower that has been ground on. The people on this board are the most versed people in AR15s. I would not have anyone questioning my AR15 building ability. That was grinding on your lower does.
Yes, I know you can say you don’t give a damn what other people think but sometimes image matters especially in serious circles.
Its not that hard, that what i do for fun and a living. I just takes know how, and the willingness to try. :rolleyes:
If someone wants to try anodizing, go for it. If people didnt try things you would have auto guns, bolt guns, and AR or anything else.
good luck!
seriously? how could it possibly matter that somebody’s got a modified gun? please explain
When someone hands me an AR to use or work on, the first thing I do is look at the drag marks from the charging handle and in the magazine well from magazine insertion to know how used the rifle is and then I will know what part might need to be replaced, story of the gun, etc. Anyone that doesn’t do this should start.
Now if I flip over the gun and see big honkin bare aluminum grinding. What I’m I suppose to think? I question the rest of the gun and the owner. The owner might know what they are doing and they might not.
Personally, I think the answer to this question is a group buy on Daniel Defense lower receivers
Their beveled magwell looks good.