Beveling AR Magwell

AR/M4 Custom Build Forum
1

I am looking for input regarding beveling a magwell on an AR. I have searched and found nothing regarding this, though my search-fu may be weak.

I assume that removing the hardened anodized aluminum will cause the magwell to wear quickly, so I would like to know if the newly exposed aluminum can be refinished (Cerakote?) to maintain wear resistance. I think I understand the implications of removing aluminum from an anodized lower, but I am in no way a metallurgist or machinist, so my assumptions are just that.

If I can do this myself, groovy. If not, who offers this service, and at what kind of price?

If this has already beed discussed, I would appreciate a link to the thread.
If not, I am interested in informed/professional feedback.

2

If you want to do this yourself (the bevel) S.A.W. offers Colt quality factory refinishing.

Have you looked at the Arredondo Plastice mag well thingy? It would be a removeable, temporary mod to an AR lower. I’ve never tried or seen one in person, but they list them in Dillon’s blue press mag I think.

3

I had a brief exchange with Pat Rogers re: this subject on another forum after I made the comment that the biggest attraction for me in the Magpul lowers was the bevel.

I personally think it’s a great idea, and agree as to the only potential downside. I have a couple of stripped lowers in the safe and have thought of hitting one with the file.

Does SAW do actual re-anodizing? Seems like that might be a perfect option. I wonder if anyone else offers this service, as I’ll be SAW just actually sends them out.

4

I don’t know the details on SAW’s service.

5

Anodizing is a pretty big deal equipment wise along with the skill and expertise to do it correctly. It’s usually only done by dedicated metal finishing shops. US Anodizing is very reasonable based on prices I’ve gotten from local shops. I’d bet Rob is correct that SAW just sends them out.

http://www.usanodizing.com/index.htm

6

You may be better off buying a new lower with the magwell already beveled:

But then again… the benefits derived therefrom may not be worth the price of admission regardless of the method chosen.

7

demigod- Thanks for the note on SAW, will contact about refinish. I never liked the Arredondo Magwells, and I may throw on a BFG Redi-mag, which precludes their use.

rob-s- That discussion (along with a new lower courtesy of M4arc) is what really put me in the mood to create something. I am slapping together a project and want to make it “just right”.

Walker Precision- I did some research on “do it yourself” anodizing, and I am not confident with “doing it myself”, and I certainly do not have the required kit to do it in my home. Anything in my hands more involved than spray paint will probably result in an abortion.

ETA- It looks like US anodizing is pretty good, upper and lower for $125. Unless there is another solution for less, this will probably be the answer.

David Thomas- I would be open to a new lower purchase, but the only lower I am aware of with the beveled magwell is the Magpul, and the potential availability and cost is deterrent to my ambition.

Is anodizing the only way to regain surface hardness?
Is it necessary for a lower that will be well used, but not abused?

I have a brass magwell on a comp pistol that is beat-up from reloads, but a minute with a dremel and a felt tip work out any serious dings. How differently would exposed aluminum wear if the only ammunition source was PMags?

Thanks for the replies.

8

ETA- It looks like US anodizing is pretty good, upper and lower for $125. Unless there is another solution for less, this will probably be the answer.

Below is a picture of a Blackwell (Renton, WA) receiver that I used for my first custom recon style build. It has the largest bevel that I have seen on a lower machined from a forging. The bevel and all the other finished features are beautiful.

Sorry about the small picture.

9

This thread inspired me to look at some of the magwells in my safe. Interestingly no two brands that I have appear to be exactly the same. The stripped DSA that I have seems to have the best bevel, but even it could probably be improved a little.

10

You don’t need a bevel on a mag well to get the mag in the hole easier, just put a little hair around the opening, then sticking it in will be like second nature to you.:smiley:

11

Intensionally removing the anodized finish off of a factory lower at any time for any reason is about the dumbest thing you can do to a receiver.

You cannot reanodize and get back to the original dimensions no matter what anybody (and I mean anybody) says.

12

Let’s say that you don’t try to re-annodize at all. Let’s say you simply hit it with black krylon.

what’s the worst thing that’s going to happen, and how long is it going to take for that worst thing to occur? Especially if, as someone else suggested, you use only P-mags in that lower?

13

So reanodizing a freshly beveled magwell will cause loss of dimensional control in other areas of the lower? Will the entire lower need to be stripped and refinished, or can the unhardened, exposed areas be anodized without requiring a full refinish of the entire lower?

14

bringing this back- its still unresolved and pertinent. i’m all about making shit the way i want it.

same goes for m4 feedramps. widened magwells and m4 feedramps are righteous things and i follow the path of the righteous.

two things- first, why cant you annodize at home? run electricity through clean, bare aluminum while submerged in a sulfuric acid solution and you have anodize. i’ve read recipes that call for 15 amps, 15 minutes, and 1 part water for 2 parts sulfuric acid. that’s not hard, if it works. i’ll do some more research, and try to get ahold of my secluded machinist father.

secondly, and more pressingly, is anodize really necessary? m4s dont NEED anodize because they’ll so rarely be struck by bullets. magwells might erode a bit from having magazines speedloaded into them hundreds of times, but by how much? i bet you could jam a thousand steel magazines into a bare aluminum well and not effect function.

15

Reanodizing the lower will open up all the pin holes about 0.003" to 0.005"

You will be able to tell your pins fit sloppy even though this doesn’t seem like much.

Upper and lower play will be worse. You will be able to grab your hammer and trigger and wiggle them.

16

Taking a GI lower and beveling a magwell is not going to get you much more “bevel” than what was already there from the factory.

If you want a larger bevel, then you need to invest in a billet lower or buy an aftermarket attachment.

Drawbacks of doing this:

Your lower will be opened up to corrosion.

Anyone versed in AR15s will look at you like you’re a dumbass.

Turn the value of the lower into $0

17

i’m not convinced the lower needs to be stripped and re-anodized. just grind, clean, attach your leads to any area with stripped anodize, and violin.

18

It’s getting to the point that if YOU think doing something makes someone a dumbass, I’d damn near suggest it on that basis alone.

:rolleyes:

19

scotty does seem to have a habit of trying to make people into idiots for not wanting to keep their weapons exactly as manufacturered.

i’m already looking for a sulfuric acid dealer.

20

Wow. A one-paragraph internet forum do-it-yourself recommendation that involves water, electricity and sulfuric acid. If anyone decides to do this, please set up your camcorder so that we may all enjoy the youtube video afterwards.