Beretta M9A1 Technical Questions...

General Firearms Handguns - Semi Auto
1

Not looking to start a flame war. I’m thinking about picking up a Beretta, as it’s what I’m issued for a pistol. I don’t need it for concealed carry, etc, so let’s not go down the 9mm ego-trip rabbit hole for what 9mm I should be buying. I just like that for being issued it, it is certainly a shootable/accurate pistol. I’ve decided to get the railed version, since I might like to change the front sight one day, and that brings me to the M9A1 vs the 92A1. I’ve read a couple of the threads so far, including the one on the pending(?) M9A3, and am left with the following questions.

1-Is there any reason to get the 92A1 over the M9A1? I know the 92A1 has a captured recoil spring, which doesn’t matter to me, and an interesting blue insert(buffer plate?) in the frame. Does the insert honestly matter long term if you stay on top of your springs? Can you convert the M9A1 to include the insert?

2-Do the current M9A1s come with the improved Gen 3 locking blocks? Do they need to be replaced periodically? Are Gen 3 locking blocks the latest and greatest?

3-Other than the trigger guard and frame insert, is there any other difference between the M9A1 and the 92A1? I could care less about the trigger guard. I do like that the M9A1 is manufactured in America by Americans, not imported from Italy. I also like that the M9A1 comes with the Sand Resistant mags, though my normal mags never gave me issues overseas as I cleaned them regularly. I also don’t live in a desert.

4-What maintenance in this pistol is there that I need to be aware of? I’m a 1911 guy at heart, so you’re not going to shock me here.

I know that pistol receives a lot of hate, but none of it has been reflected by my experiences with the pistol so long as the magazines were in good shape. Again, I do not intend a CCW role for this pistol, though the winters here certainly allow for it. Intended role for it is range use, occasional practice, possible bedside type use with a weapon mounted light, and I will be taking classes with it if purchased. I will likely use this Beretta in MIL/LE classes to increase my skill set and familiarity with it, and hopefully become more proficient with what I’m issued, not just what I’d prefer to carry. Thanks in advance.

2

Someone on another forum offered some suggestions:

http://www.cogunowners.com/showthread.php?tid=1112

I’ve searched all over the internet and finding information on specific upgrades you can make to an M9A1 is really hard to find. Over the course of two months I researched and I think I’ve compiled the best upgrades you can do for just over a hundred bucks. So I wanted to create a thread in case anyone out there is looking to do some work on there M9A1 or any other 92SF.

I purchased the following from Brownells,

EliteII hammer;
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=28315/Product/HAMMER-ELITE
It supposedly increases cycle speed and gives a lighter pull to the trigger. Both are great but I must admit, the big seller for me was that a skeletonized hammer looks awesome.

D version main spring; http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27930/Product/HAMMER-SPRING-D-VERSION
I also found that some people are using a 1911 mainspring but I wanted to stick to a Beretta factory part. The spring provides a much lighter trigger pull.

Wolff Trigger conversion; http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=16498/avs
This part was originally created to replace a weak trigger spring. I read that this was developed for the US Boarder Patrol and the problems they had with the factory trigger sprig breaking. I found that is helps for really smooth trigger pull. It comes in a lighter and heaver version. To me its main job is to provide return so I figured factory weight was fine.

Steel trigger;
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=28449/avs|Make~~Model_1=Beretta__92/Product/TRIGGER-STEEL
Feels better than polymer. Helps with trigger pull because of the increased weight. I also like the look of a gun with a trigger colored separate from the rest of the gun.

Aluminum grips;
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41678/avs|Make~~Model_1=Beretta__92/Product/BERETTA-92-SIG-P238-ALUMINUM-GRIPS
A buddy of mine has a 1911 with a pair of Alumagrips on it and it feels great. The ones they make for Beretta are just as great. They provide a very positive grip.

I always toy with the idea of getting a Beretta M9A1, so I’ve reread this several times.

3

The OP said he may want to change out the front sight someday.
Wouldn’t the 92A1 be easier to change out the front sight, as it’s dovetailed, whereas the M9A1’s front sight is fixed (with no dovetail)?

4

Go with the 92A1 and don’t look back.

I replaced the recoil spring/rod with a non-captured version from WC.

The 92A1 has a means to replace the front sight…it is my understanding that the M9A1 does not.

The recoil buffer is, as far as I’m concerned, a nice insurance policy, but I can’t attest to how advantageous it is, as I don’t have the M9A1 for comparison.

Like the 1911, keep it lubed, replace the springs at a regular interval: 5,000 rounds or so, and call it good. The M/92’s can be run through hell and back.

If you buy a current issue Beretta, the locking block “problem” simply isn’t.

Just do it.

; )

5

The M9A1 doesn’t have a detailed front sight? For some reason I thought it did. I handled the 92A1 today, it definitely had a dovetail as you have all mentioned. I guess that would settle the choice between the two.

6

Is it still advisable to replace the trigger spring?

7

I’d be interested in trigger spring replacement info as well. I just had my LGS place the brand new 92A1 I looked at yesterday on hold for me, I’ll go pick it up in a week or so. It looks like my only option for having a holster and mag carriers for it by May is Bravo Concealment. Raven and JM Customs have a 9 week wait time, and I won’t get to order for another week.

8

Ref the trigger spring…the old spring loop was smaller and could bind. Some years back, Beretta increased the size of the loop and I believe it was a little thicker gauge wire as well. Supposedly, this largely eliminated the problem. That said, I went with the Wolff trigger conversion unit in my most recent Beretta. You will have to replace the polymer trigger with a steel one though. It really isn’t that hard (not like a Glock though) and there are youtube videos out there. Though more expensive than several regular springs, the Wolff unit is easier to install and is reported to be much more durable.

9

Love my 92A1, it’s by far my favorite handgun to shoot and enjoy. I’ve installed several of the Wilson Combat upgrades and I use a raven owb holster. Mine makes me look good and has handled any and all ammo I load into the mags with no problems. Great choice!

10

If you’re not going to attempt to conceal this thing, and plan on running a light, go with the Safariland 3280 or 3285.

I’ve confirmed these holsters will work with the 92A1, with or without a light. They will also work with the following lights: X300, X300U, X300V, X400, X400U, as confirmed by yours truly.

I don’t think there’s a pistol light these holsters won’t work with.

11

The factory trigger is polymer-coated steel.

12

All right…so then just to clarify and make sure no one “assumes” anything–

The M9A1 is good-to-go as-is with no parts replacement, right?

13

“Add to Cart”, mah brutha!

These things ain’t 1911’s. From a reliabilty standpoint, they’re GTG out of the box. If you want to hot rod one…head over to Wilson Combat, and start fillin’ that shopping basket.

14

No…to be frank I’ve been looking for a platform to replace the Glock as my primary sidearm. Glock has had so many issues in recent memory that my confidence in them is permanently tainted.

Makes a guy want to change his screen name. :stuck_out_tongue:

The thing I DO NOT want is a gun that has to be “fixed” before you ever fire the first round. To me that’s bullshit in a firearm that is sold as a self-defense weapon. I could maybe see buying a “hobby” gun that immediately needs upgrades, but a combat weapon should be ready to load and shoot with nothing more than a little lube.

15

Bottom line, if you want to use the Wolff unit, you have to change to an all steel trigger. Understand it is polymer-coated steel, but you still need an all steel trigger for the Wolff unit. That was the point. See link below for particulars (in red font).

http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/BERETTA/92,%2096,%20AND%20CENTURION/cID1/mID2/dID36

16

^ Truth.

I wanted to dispel the myth that the factory trigger is plastic.

17

Negative. These are as solid a weapon as one could ever hope for. ~3000 rounds +- and not a single issue.

I’ll most likely replace all the springs when I hit 5k for the sake of maintenance, but I bought this thing used on a whim, and I have gotten rid of everything else. If I find myself needing another handgun, I will buy another one just like it.

18

The M9A1 has front sight part of the slide like something out of 1873. That severely limits sight options and is a show stopper in my book. I went for a Brigadier Tactical, but if something like the M9A3 was out at the time, I probably would have just gotten one of those.

19

I have no intentions of concealing this pistol from the outset, so this holster may very well work for me. I do not need it to be a light compatible holster off the start, but might as well knock both birds out with one stone. Once I got over my disdain for the M9, I came to really like it, and I don’t think there is a 9mm I shoot better right now. I remember stepping back to do some 25 yard head shots at a shoot shortly after my return stateside with my completely Apex&10-8 upgraded M&P9, and hitting most of them. Then my buddy said “Try this old friend” and handed me his Beretta. I drilled them all, and decided I’d have one someday. Now that my 1911’s are back from their facelifts, my carry needs are taken care of, so I may as well shoot a 9mm I enjoy. My next one will probably get the “G” conversion and maybe even the “D” spring, but for now I want to mirror my duty pistol concerning trigger and safety. It shoots well enough the way it is, after all.

Beyond Safariland, does anyone else have suggestions for duty holsters? My requirements are that it not be a high-ride holster, not be a SERPA, and not have weird locking mechanisms. I might just go with the Safariland and be done with it. If I could get it with passive retention, even better. I will probably shoot this pistol at 3 Gun a time or two, so having a non locking holster would be nice if it is also low ride like Safariland offers.

20

1-Is there any reason to get the 92A1 over the M9A1? I know the 92A1 has a captured recoil spring, which doesn’t matter to me, and an interesting blue insert(buffer plate?) in the frame. Does the insert honestly matter long term if you stay on top of your springs? Can you convert the M9A1 to include the insert?

The two reasons to get a 92A1 are the “improved recoil system” and the dovetailed front sight.
A 9mm the size and weight of the 92 series had no need at all for an improved recoil system.
A reason not to get a 92A1 is that it does not have the same interchangeable upper/lower as the rest of the 92 series. It is interchangeable with the “90-two.” Another reason is the trigger guard shape makes it not compatible with many other 92 holsters.
Reasons to get an M9A1 instead are it has a beveled mag well and improved checkering. It is basically an Elite II frame with a rail.
The M9A1 not having an easily replaceable front sight, and the 92A1 not having the checkered and beveled frame is insane. One pistol with both sets of assets should have been made.

2-Do the current M9A1s come with the improved Gen 3 locking blocks? Do they need to be replaced periodically? Are Gen 3 locking blocks the latest and greatest? Yes. Yes, about 10K rounds. Yes.

3-Other than the trigger guard and frame insert, is there any other difference between the M9A1 and the 92A1? I could care less about the trigger guard. I do like that the M9A1 is manufactured in America by Americans, not imported from Italy. I also like that the M9A1 comes with the Sand Resistant mags, though my normal mags never gave me issues overseas as I cleaned them regularly. I also don’t live in a desert.
Yes, see above.

4-What maintenance in this pistol is there that I need to be aware of? I’m a 1911 guy at heart, so you’re not going to shock me here.
Keep it well lubed. Change the recoil spring at about 5k rounds.
No need to go to the Wolf trigger spring with the modern factory trigger spring. It will not improve the trigger pull.

My personal opinions are:
The 96A1/92A1 series should go the way of the 90-two and disappear. The 90-two was a failed product. The improved recoil system was rolled into the 96A1 as a way of saying any issues/worries with wear on your 96s from .40 is gone. It came out when no major element was looking for a full sized .40 and as .40 is becoming less and less popular. So they made 92A1s.

All full sized 92s should either have the M9A1 frame or the Elite II frame so you can get railed or non-railed checkered/beveled frames. And I guess Vertec frames for those really small hands.

The M9/previous 92 full sized grip should also fall by the wayside. The current 92’s radiused back strap makes the gun fit better in a larger range of shooter’s hands.

Going with a rounded trigger guard such as on the Wilson Combat and A1s instead of the standard M9 shape was an artistic preference serving no functional purpose and serves only to mess up holster availability. “Nice, it looks like the really old Beretta 92s. Crap, it does not fit my holster right.”

All uppers should either be Vertec (compatible with standard holsters) or Brigadier (not compatible with standard holsters). Both have dovetailed front sights. The standard “1873” era upper with fixed front sight of the M9/92 needs to also fall by the wayside.

All uppers should be available in G or FS mode. Or be changeable to either without machined conversions like is planned with the M9A3.