I am currently re-contouring barrels and would like to find out if there are any options for coatings that have the similar or improved performance as parkerizing. I’m doing this in my machine shop and am trying to find some sort of material/process that I can do in house if possible. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I cannot fathom anything [unclassified] being better than PVD coatings or salt bath nitrocarburization - neither of which is capable of being done at home.
Your “best” bet would be re-parkerizing - Manganese (black) or Zinc (grey) Phosphating, btw.
Sorry.
A fresh parkerize job coated with a bake on Gunkote is a tough finish.
I made this dual parkerizing burner rig for a friend who does it all in his garage.
Just get a HVLP touch up gun and a oven to bake the paint and your are up and running. We use a small powder coating oven for baking the paint.
Gunkote 2400 has some good chemical resistance.
From the Datasheet
Technical General:
Outstanding corrosion protection up to 1000 salt spray tests at 5% salt. Tests performed for Armscor by the South African Navel Logistics Dept. showed Gun Kote withstanding an equivalent of a 7-year exposure. (Tests were performed on Aluminum in a salt spray chamber with 50/50 on/off time at 35 degrees C.)
Technical General Continued:
Meets or exceeds Military requirements to “Resistant to Chemicals” such as, Aviation Gasoline, Grade 115/145, Jet Fuel, JP-4, Lubrication Oil,
Hydraulic Fluid, Non-petroleum, Remover Paint, Epoxy Systemlene, Nitric Acid, Hydrochloric Acid, Hydrogen Peroxide, Ammonia
Hydroxide, Sodium Hydroxide NaOH, Sulfuric Acid H2SO4 3%, Sodium Bisulphide, NaHS 3% and Alkaline Cleaner, Highly Chelated (ANN-RO
#101). ) @ 212 degrees F 2 hours
Outstanding heat dissipating qualities.
Outstanding temperature variation (500 to 800 degrees F and as low as -300 degrees F)
Outstanding! Thanks very much for your comprehensive response. I will look into duplicating your rig. Very impressive!
That has to be one of the best posts ever.
Glad I could help here is some more instructions I posted elsewhere for the construction of the burners.
It should help in the development stage cutting your time on task.
Tools:
Small center drill (very helpful)
Drill and Drill Press Vice (If you don’t have either, now is the time)
#55 bit for the final gas orifice
7/64” Drill bits for drilling the gas pipe (more than one is recommended)
Thread cutting oil (keep your drill bit cool on the pipe)
Supplies needed (One of each for a single burner setup)
Steel:
4’ 3/4” Black Pipe threaded with end caps.
Gas Line Source:
Low Pressure Regulator LP line (we used a two way line)
Gas Grill replacement from DIY center.
Brass Fitting for Gas:
All Brass Fittings are wrench tightened with Gas thread tape.
3/8” Flare Male to 1/4” Male (mates up to the low pressure LP line)
1/4” Female to 1/4” Female Ball valve shut off
1/4" Male to 1/8” Male thread reducer
1/8” Female end cap
Depending on the Brass Ball Valve you are able to get you may need to swap the Male to Female for the fittings.
Drilling instructions:
Drill the 4’ black pipe with hole pattern 1” spacing for 40”, hole size 7/64”. Leave yourself enough room to clamp then start marking the hole pattern on the far end. You want the undrilled longer end for the gas side end cap.
Drill the center of the 1/8” brass end cap with a #55 hole.
Drill the center of one pipe cap to fit the OD on the 1/8” thread on the reducer.
The pipe end cap, that is center drilled for the OD on the 1/8” thread, will need holes drilled in it to mix with the air. I found that 6 holes at 1/4” worked the best. Test as you go, blue flame is what you are after on full open for the valve.
Use in a ventilated area.
Open a window and crack your garage door for some airflow.
I have some after thoughts from making the rig. There is alway room for improvement, right?
You want to get as much heat to run up the sides of the tank.
We use a 1/8" diffuser plate under the tanks so the new plan is to drill 6 holes near all 4 corners and centered on the bottom of the angle iron to rest the diffuser plate on for 1/4" short bolt heads.
This will help heat run directly up the sides of the tank, and not be deflected around the outside of the angle iron.
There are plans to install some draft shields may be placed to aide the heat up the sides of the tank. Drafts were noticed having an open garage when looking at the heat mirage.
We may increase the drilled holes to a 1/2" spaced pattern, and adjust the end cap for a blue flame.
More Pics
Get GunKote direct at lots of colors are available but not on the site its best to call them https://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php
Look at this oven, 120v, portable, 31" diagonal internal length, it also has an internal circulating fan to keep even temps.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46300
Here is a rifle that the barrel was parkerized in a zinc park. Then later cosmoline was cooked into the park for the gunshow Garand green look, that was cool for a while. But I wanted to do something real different with this one so its now coated in Gunkote.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=36758