Bare chrome-moly "finish" question

General General Discussion
1

Ok, so I had a Remington 700 re-barreled and had them use chrome-moly instead of stainless because I had originally wanted them to park it and a coated SS barrel really doesn’t have an advantage for a hunting gun that may see sub-freezing temps.

Anyway, we got our signal crossed and they sent the action back to me before sending it to get parked. So now I have a parked receiver, and a bare CM barrel that’s nice and bright silver.

Can I AlumahydeII or duracoat it without a park job? Any concerns on rust, etc? Or should I get it parked then alumahyde, duracoat or rattle can it?

The real issue here is now I have to ship the thing to someone who can disassemble it, park it, then reassemble it. I’m worried someone is going to fuck it up unless I send it to a quality smith like GA Precision.

2

Duracoat will certainly work for you, much better than rattle can, but I would suggest that you have the barrel bead blasted first to give it a good surface to bite into. Great product and very easy to use but remember that proper prep is very important.

3

I would only consider krylon over a park or similar finish.

4

If it were mine I’d have it sand blasted and GunKoted. I know a guy…
He’ll be building me up a precision rifle soon with a Surgeon action.

5

The guy local to Pac-Nor quoted $90 to disassemble, park it, and reassemble. He worked for Pac-Nor as gunsmith prior to his current gig.

I really cursed myself good when I apparently forgot to formally request Pac-Nor transfer it to him for finishing.

6

Dude, got to wal-mart, buy an airbrush and a compressor and ditch that spray in-a-can shit. Norrells or Kal-guard make excellent bake-on finishes that give professional results.

And I would stiill park it for a primer layer. Makes a much better base than just blasting the metal raw.

7

I Alumahyde’IIed over the stock parked barrel on a Rem700 and it turned out great in my opinion.

If I get it parked that will be the end of the quest. I’m really just torn that it’s going to cost me $60+ bucks to ship it somewhere and back.

8

Air brush finishes go on thin and wear. They can be touched-up with excellent results.

Spray can finishes go on thick and tear. They do not touch-up near as well.

I have done both and will never go back. It is almost impossible to have a sag or a run with an airbrush.

9

I guess it depends on application, and methodology. I had good results. Neither here, nor there though.

My only really concern is if I am missing something in regards to the protective properties of coatings like moly-resin, guncoat, duracoat, alumahydeII, etc.

10

Ion bond…:wink:

11

I would consider it, but who does it that also is an expert Rem 700 'smith for disassembly/reassembly? And that doesn’t charge $200+++?

I think a 1911 is $250 at most places, can you imagine the $$$ for a Rem 700? :eek:

12

Ionbond seems to be a really good finish but it is pricey.

I recently painted a 1911 frame with Krylon. It is just as a temporary finish till I get the fit and finish completed, after that it will probably be stripped and Ionboned.

The Krylon is holding up surprisingly well. All I did to prep the frame was place it in an old pot of boiling water for about 10 mins and then let it dry, then sprayed it while it was still warm to the touch with Krylon. After that I put it in the oven on low heat, around 180 if I remember correctly, for 30 mins.

The frame, a Fusion, came sandblasted and coated in oil.

13

The only thing I’d be concerned about is making sure the paint had something to stick to. You could try something like an etching primer and paint over that, or just hit the bare steel with a scuffing pad before painting it.

14

Get some cerakote and do it yourself. Brownells sells cerakote

15

You can probably get a local guy to powder coat it without disassembling but really, the home spray-on or Krylon will be cheaper, faster, and just as protective.

Put SOMETHING on before you start getting light surface rust