Anyone ever Bridge Red-Dot?

Tactical Gear Optics & Mounts
1

I know its…“bad”…

But WTH is the point of a continuous rail if you cant use that space? and it just happens to be in the spot I want to mount my AP… If these rails are supposed to NOT rotate etc. then WTH is the problem??? I would think an ADM or LARUE mount would be strong enough to sit on that god awful “Line”…

Ive heard people say just do it…and others say “AWE HELLZZ NO!”

Im using a DD Omega 7 rail…will it…BREAK my mount if i DO bridge the gap???

EDIT///read my post…im not bitching just curious.:smiley:

2

I think of the rails over where the delta ring used to be (the gap) as extra rails, not meant for bridging.

With two extra rails you have slightly more mounting options (on the handguard), receivers still have as many rails as before, the rails on the receiver and handguard are separate physically still, they only appear continuous.

Folks have straddled their mounts without apparent ill effect, but they are two pieces and may vibrate differently and put stress on the mount, so given a choice, I’d mount it either on the receiver or hanguard, but not both :slight_smile:

I deem there are few instances where it’s necessary anyway, of all the rail space on the receiver and handguard, why mount it where the two meet? :stuck_out_tongue:

3

You are right,

Would mounting a red dot on the handguard only have ill effect on accuracy?

4

I bridge my optics, I always have.

If you do it correctly you wont have problems.

First, I make sure the lug is on the reciever itself…not the rail.

I loosen the rail clamp, put an old T-1 mount on the rail (bridging it)

Crank it down tight and slowly tightn the rail.

You can see that the rail sits just under the reciever.

Then I just mount the optic.

I have to give credit to Wormy for the idea, he uses a similar method to straighten the rail.

5

Depending on what optic you run…it has a negligable effect on accuracy.

I ran mine just forward of the reciever for a few months to see what would happen.

Im not easy on my gear by any means.

I run a 4 moa T-1, for the set up I have I think the accuracy was fine.
I dont shoot bench and Im not going for 1/2" groups, if you are training QCB type stuff its fine.

I noticed a little difference out to 300 yards but figured out my hold after the first 2 shots.

I also ran my XPS-2 on the rail of my M4. It was the same.

I think accuracy is relative to the style of shooting youre after

6

As Steve at Adco said on TOS, on a magnified optics that require a long eye relief, it’d be better to bridge the mounts and obtain a good cheek weld than to not do so and have a poor cheek weld, a good cheek weld is far more important for accuracy.

But since you’re using a red dot, eye relief isn’t an issue, you can mount it anywhere. From what I have read, bridging the two has either so little effect on accuracy as to be a non-issue, or no issue at all.

7

Bridging is a stupid idea especially on less than firm rails like the TRX. The TRX is a good rail that is nice and light and does free float the barrel. However it allows a lot of flex when the handguard is used to brace against various objects. You can test this by using one hand and simply pushing on the end of the TRX tube near the barrel and you will see it move . This movement can translated to your bridged optic. In fact If I were going to be relying on irons as a primary system I would not put the front sight on my TRX rail it would got on the barrel. There is no right way to bridge when you mount an optic on an AR. Your not going to notice the issue when you are shooting off a bench or off hand. The issue will be when you use the forend for support while applying pressure to it to stabalize the rifle.