Ran into a little accessory conflict yesterday when installing my new Z32 Shock isolated bezel on my surefire g2.
I have two mounts, both VLTOR, one is the offset and the other is the standard one.
Unfortunately, because both the mounts mount the light so close to the rifle, neither one really works with the z32 head because of how huge it is. The only way to get the light to work with the standard mount is to mount it so that the head hangs off the end of the rail. I dont like my light this far forward.
The offset mount interferes with my front MBUS mounted on my rail when I mount the light where i want it (the mbus makes contact with the bezel).
What i ended up doing that works is I mounted the light in the offset mount and mounted it to the top rail, and mounted it far enough back where the bezel is just behind the MBUS. This works for now but, the problem is now the light is too far back and the tail cap is hard to depress with my thumb. I use an 11in rail and use the costa grip (thumb on top of rail). With the light mounted that far back, i cant make contact with the tail cap with out moving my hand back, and turning on the light. This makes quick discharges of light with my thumb/fingers impossible. its pretty much either on or off.
I just thought Id fill yall in on this problem in case anybody is thinking about this combination.
Would a Larue Offset mount fix this problem? will they mount the light a little farther out? What i need is a mount (needs to be offset, i mount my light in the 10 oclock position) that mounts the light just a little farther out than the VLTOR mount. I would prefer it be metal too, so i think that rules out the viking tactics mount.
personally I like having the head of my G2 as far forward as possible so it doesn’t cast shadows. that entails having it hang off the front of the rail. I don’t see a problem.
I also use a Leupold 1" Med scope ring and it works just fine at about 1/6 the cost of a dedicated light mount. I give up the quick detatch but that’s not an issue for me.
and btw, the “Costa” grip you mentioned, just watch a shotgunner shoot moving targets (skeet, trap, clays) and see how they shoot. they’ve been doing that for a lot longer than most of us here have been shooting so I don’t think anyone can claim that’s a “new” method, no matter how bearded they are…
the thumb on top is not specific, it’s the index finger extending forward along the axis of the barrel that is important. the concept being that we can more easily “point” with our finger than with an object. the thumb mostly goes along for the ride…
I use both the mounts you mentioned with success, but I too run them as far forward on the rail as possible to minimize shadows.
Have you considered running the lights in front of the MBUS?
Also have you considered changing to LED? It negates the need for the shock bezel, and possibly your conflict. Metal bezels help dissipate the heat from the LED lamps better than the plastic G2 bezel. The plastic will work, but the metal is better. Maybe take off bezels from a 6P or G2L?
I’ll hop on the swap the light/MBUIS positions wagon as well. I have a rifle set up similar to this & it works well for fitting everything where I want it. The sight radius is a little shorter but depending on your rail it could still end up being longer than the standard carbine radius.
the part of the MBUS that was interfering with the light was the little ear that hangs over the edge. MBUS are cheap so, I just filed the little ear down on that side and now everything works perfectly.
