6.5 Creedmoor pet loads?

General Firearms Reloading & Ammunition
1

I got very lucky with the Onyx/Kansaswoodsguy/markm .223 load that I use on my PRS Gas gun. I didn’t have to do load development at all and my SDs with 10 rounds are always <5 using cheap Lake City brass.

I now have a 26” 6.5CM and was hoping to get equally lucky. I bought 500 140gr ELDM bullets and have an 8lb jug of H4350. It looks like I need to get Lapua brass and some CCI450s (which I use for my 223 load anyway)

Is doing a ladder the only proven way to do this? I can shoot paper with a chrono at 300y. Should I keep the suppressor on when I chrono?

It looks like 41.5-42.5 is where most people get their nodes with this combo but was hoping for a really proven performer.

2

My experience loading for bolt action rifles leads me to advise you to perform a ladder test. If you can get throat measurements so you can determine a place to start seating depth that can also help.

Otherwise you’re on the right track, I’ve found it easier to develop consistent loads in bolt guns and expect you will not find it terribly difficult either.

If you plan to shoot suppressed in competition then I suggest you do load development with the suppressor attached.

3

If you intend to shoot it suppressed, yes it should be on there.

You should work up your own load. The easiest way to find a node is purely velocity. Once your velocity nodes are discovered you can tweak it with seating depth and work between the nodes.

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4

I can’t remember our load off the top of my head. I know we’re running pretty hot (as usual) using that ADG? brass.

But honestly we haven’t had any load, factory or handload, that has impressed at 1300 yards. The low bc bullet S&B factory load shoots good some days. But we often end up saying “screw this”, quit playing grab ass and fire up the 300 Win Mag.

5

I have been enjoying 147gr ELDM’s in Alpha SRP brass using 40.2gr of H4350 and CCI41 primers (just because I have a lot of these inventory).

It is a moderate load at around 2650 fps in my 26" x-bolt.

Premium brass is the key foundation for good performance in 6.5cm in my experience. Hornady factory brass wasn’t cutting it for me.

6

140 ELD-M’s with Hornady brass, 41.8 gr. RL16, Fed 210M gives me 2720 FPS from a 26" Bolt Gun. Low extreme spreads.

One positive on the RL16 is temperature insensitivity. Chrono diff at 23 degrees and 85 degrees was virtually same.

Got into this when 4350 was non-existent and SRP brass unobtainable.

7

I think this round may be one of the easiest loads to develop. I have yet to buy any ammo that didn’t shoot MOA. You can buy :
S&B , $11.00 for 20 rounds and it shoots MOA
Hornnady Am Gunner, shoots MOA
Marks loads shoots holes in holes.

You will enjoy your 6.5 because it shoots flat and accurate, at least I would guess so. It doesn’t give you the big audible off steel, but it does get there.

Try some ADG brass, very nice stuff and beefier than Lapua but not as much as RWS. But weighs very consistent.

Yes, chrono with suppressor, shoot with suppressor, eat dinner with suppressor…

PB

8

FWIW the charge range you mention is where you will, or at least should find your node. I would caution that I have run into pressure signs with Starline brass at the lower end of your suggested range. In Hornady brass I shoot 41.6 of H4350 from my 24" Wiseman barreled R700. No problem with 140 ELD-M’s breaking the .5 MOA mark.

You know that each barrel is a law unto itself, so verify pressure safe with a few lower than hoped from loads and then let the games begin.

Good luck and enjoy the Creedmoor.

9

Thanks for the advice guys. I just ordered Lapua brass.

My plan to start with is as follows:
Lapua brass
CCI450
40.0-44.0 of H4350 in 0.2g increments
140gr ELDM

Full length size in RCBS with no expander ball
Sinclair carbide expander mandrel (I aim for 0.002” tension)
RCBS seater die with no crimp. For now I’ll just go with a popular mag length load as I don’t have a way to measure off the lands.

I think that’s a good mix of not driving myself crazy and bankrupt but not wasting potential either. I did that with my .223 and get stupid low SDs. The only difference is I used an M die which they don’t appear to make for 6.5CM.

ETA: I will develop a node using the Magnetospeed V3

Pic of the rifle

10

Don’t forget to use a smaller diameter decapping pin with Lapua brass. Don’t want to mess up your nice brass bending a decapping rod.

11

Another die to consider is a Forster BR seating die or Redding Competition seating die. The Redding may require a minor modification but it’s no problem to do. It does load straight bullets.

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12

I’m at 42.6 with Hornady brass and H4350, fed match primers and 2700 out of the 24" AT barrel. I still have quite a few 140 Amax and have no issues with them at 1k, would run a 195-200 for score. When I run out will go back to the Berger 140’s if I stay in it.

Euro, don’t get to hung up on dies and prep work. I get 1/2" or less with standard RCBS 2 die set, seat to 2.815+/- don’t sort brass, etc. etc.

Do be critical with powder measuring though. While I don’t have anything “high tech” I check the RCBS scale with an old school OHAUS one. Trickle and to the grain as it pops over to the desired weight.

13

Thanks for the info, that makes me feel a lot better. Like I said, I got pretty lucky using the .223 load everyone uses with no load development, RCBS dies, no brass sorting, etc. I’m a good handloader but have zero experience with development so wanted to get some info.

I too bought an RCBS 6.5 two die set. In keeping with my procedure for my .223 loads I removed the expander ball and bought a Sinclair Expander mandrel die for 6.5CM (I use an M die to expand my .223 but Lyman doesn’t make one for 6.5CM). Aside from that I’ll use the standard RCBS dies for FL resizing and seating.

I did get a super deal on an RCBS chargemaster from a buddy so I use that now for powder throws. It takes longer than using a simple manual powder measure but it’s quicker than weighing each charge by hand (what I was doing)

14

Think I might have polished the e ball on mine, don’t remember. I know I did on the .308. You will like the 6.5, still have to read the wind though but it makes it easier to beat it.

15

Rifle:
Seekins Havak Bravo in 6.5CM (Had exactly 40 rounds of factory ammo through it prior to this)
AAC 762SD Suppressor

Optic:
NF ATACR 5-25 F1 Mil in Seekins 34mm Rings

Ammo:
Hornady 140gr ELD-M
H4350
Virgin Lapua Brass expanded with a Sinclair expander mandrel
CCI450
2.810" COAL

Chronograph:
Magnetospeed V3

Distance:
300 yards

I started by shooting 1 round each at 38.3gr, 39.0gr, and 39.8gr. 38.3 was below the target, so I adjusted up. 39.0 was a dud. The primer did not ignite*. (This actually happened again at 41.7gr and 42.3gr) and 39.8gr which was on target but low. I didn’t adjust the elevation or windage for any group except the 5 at 41.7gr. on top of target 2.

*I have been reloading for years in .223 with these exact primers, so I am sure the primers are not at fault. My guess is that I might have used my RCBS Ram Priming tool adjusted incorrectly and crushed the primer. Thoughts?

After those sighters, I shot groups of 3. I did not shoot in a round robin style. Here is the data.



Target 1. #4 corresponds with 40.6gr, #5 40.9gr, etc.

Target 2. Group 12 was 5 rounds of 41.7gr. Unfortunately, I had another misfire with this group, but it eventually fired on the second try (the other two did not) However, the velocity was about 25fps faster than other rounds in the group. My rifle was burning up and the line was about to go cold, so I rushed the group.)

Finally, I did not get any sticky bolt lift but what are your thoughts on the brass?

Thanks in advance for your help guys. I really like the 40.6 (Target #4) - 40.9 (Target #5) load from a SD and group size perspective, but it’s about 50fps slower than I’d like. That corresponds to about 0.3 mil more drop at 800 yards based on my Calcs and of course more wind drift.

16

Between 41.4 and 41.7 gr looks like the node to work between. That’s a pretty descent start.

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17

Your 42.6 gr. load obviously shows minor ejector swipe and a touch of cratering in the FP indentation.
Other than that, the primers look OK. I’ve run hotter.

It’s not necessary to run the 6.5 balls to the wall IME.

Oh, did you disassemble and inspect bolt/FP? The sporadic failure to fire, with primers of known quality would have me concerned.
You know with a certainty this will happen at the least opportune time.

18

I didn’t touch the bolt, and didn’t have any problems in factory ammo. I will disassemble and see what’s up.

I will try both 40.6-40.9 and 41.4-41.7.

I’m really liking that 1” group at 300 yards but maybe I can play with 41.5~ and get it smaller too.

19

Thats knocking down some serious groups. 1 Inch at 300 yards is very nice, especially considering wind which comes into play at 300.

PB

20

Thanks. I shot it again today out to 300 and worked up another ladder. I began at 42.6 and worked my way down to 39.8. (I left 40.0 at home by mistake)

I also grouped 4 rounds at 300. 1.410" at 300y.

I found out my issue with the primers too. I am used to loading SRPs in a .223 case which does not seat the primer as deeply as it does in a Lapua case. I wasn’t seating the primers in deep enough. I had no failures after making this change.

I will probably dial this back to 41.5gr to be in the middle of my node. What do you guys think?