Finally got out to the range to zero my new DDM4. This was on the factory iron sites. Did the 25 yard zero as I have read alot about it on here. No pics of the target since by the time I got it where I wanted it I ran out of targets to shoot a nice group in a fresh target and post pics, oh well, next time. Initially was low and right. Took it up 2 clicks at a time until I got it where it needed to be, took about 8 clicks or so(might have gone ±1 to fine tune it). Then I brought it from right to center, took 2 clicks. I was doing all of this on the small aperture. When I went to the large aperture I was dropping them down low again, still centered left to right, but low. I think I just need to work on my sight picture with the large aperture. Does having to come up 8 or so clicks on the FSB seem right, it seemed like that was pretty drastic.
Overall I am extremely happy with this gun. Put about 120 rounds through it with zero issues. Now I just gotta get my Magpul ASAP plate installed.
So I just need to get used to the difference’s with the sight pictures I guess. I will get it figured out eventually. Or should I go re-zero with the large aperture?
I could have sworn I read about the 25 yard zero here which got you good out to 300 yards with using some hold under at anything between 25 and 300. I dont know I have been reading so many damn websites lately about these guns it gets confusing.
I will probably just stick with the small as the large didnt really prove to be any easier to acquire the target than the small and the small is for sure more accurate, at least with me behind the gun, than the large one was.
Ok I’m very new to AR’s so if this is crazy wrong somebody please correct me. That being said, if it really bothers you I think you could replace the buis with something like the arms 40L SP which puts both apertures in the same plane so no re-zero needed when flipping between them.
The large aperature does not need to be zeroed. It is not designed for accuracy work, it is designed to increase your field of view for close in work, i.e. less than 50 meters where reflex fire is required. At that range, the difference in aperatures is not important if you are engaging full size targets (bad guys) like the sights are designed for. If you have time to properly sight and squeeze, then you should be using the small aperature.
Personally, I’ve never had any use for the large aperature.
I dont know enough about the DD BUIS to say that they are no on the same plane, they look like it, but if they are like 2 mm off then it would cause the rounds to be off. I may contact DD about this and ask them what they suggest.
Never heard it explained quite like that before. I have only heard that the small aperture was for distance and large was for close up, but didnt think about it like that. Makes sense now.
The standard military zero is 25m and it has beedn discussed on here as you said. Have you read Green Eyes Black Rifles by Kyle Lamb? It mentions a lot of different zero ranges with different rounds and how they are high or low at different yardages, very helpfull when deciding on a range to zero at.
I am so glad someone brought this up. All the rifles I ever shot before this were dot and post or fixed blade or scoped deer rifles. Zero’d my mp15x at 25yds as well and was on with the small ring, low with the big ring. The only info I could find on the interwebs stated 300m+ for the small ring on standard mil sights. I don’t think my eyes can even see a bus at 300m.
I might give this a try. The 25 yard I think will work for the type of shooting I plan to do though.
I am gonna shoot DD an email and see what they say.
Says a chart you posted which doesnt even go out to 300 yards which the 25 yard zero is supposed to cross back over at 300 yards. According to your chart the 100 yard zero is also poor because you only get 100-125 yards and then you have to hold over. 50 yard zero, according to you chart, is the best because it gets you 50-225 with only slight hold over/under.
