I’m thinking of getting this YHM FF rail to save a few $ (to spend on an optic). Is there really anything wrong with it. So, it isn’t the slickest, highest tech metal or lightest. If it will lok up tight and work that’s all I need.
I’m looking at the Solid FF type:
YHM rails are big and heavy but they work well.
Bananas,
We have those on the BM carbines that my company bought as part of the package. Our models do not have any type of anti-rotation pins and we have had issues with them rotating. Also, I highly encourage using some anti-seize on there as well. The other issue I have is with the retaining nut. The slots for the wrench aren’t very deep and if the retaining ring is tight it is very difficult to remove.
Get the latest model witht he anti rotation screws.
I staked my tube to the locking ring like you would with a castle nut as well to prevent movement…Ive since sold it but…big/bulky but do the job.
Their new Diamond series have the anti-rotation device, supposedly have in spec rails, have the monolithic look, and feel lighter. If one is to use YHM rails, they would probably be considered their top of the line rail.
I have one of the free floats on a .22 upper. My first impression that hasn’t faded with use, is that the thing has a HUGE circumference…like they built it around something larger than a Pringles can. But they aren’t terribly expensive, I don’t experience any movement at all(I’m not exactly torquing on it in a high stress environment though,) and given this uppers intended use I doubt I’ll see problems with it in the future.
While not my favorite FF, it is very serviceable & will suit most peoples’ needs. They’re solid although somewhat heavy & wide, relatively speaking. I have some on my training & class weapons that have worked well for many years, but I prefer & use other FFs like LaRue or Daniel Defense. I recently installed a YHM Lite FF that I’ll run this year on a .22 LR conversion upper. This one has brought the weight down quite a bit. It’s still wider, but using ‘ladder’ type rail guards helps.
I stopped using the wrench on those nuts. I use a flat head screw driver and a hammer in the slot. If you are concerned with the minute scratch it will make, apply the graphite from a #2 pencil to the slot to protect it. I use the same method to remove them.
I put one of their 12" rifle tubes on my 16" midlength upper and it is fantastic. Circumference isn’t too big, it’s light weight (about 1-2oz lighter than a LaRue 13.2") has anti-rotation screws, and it now has holes drilled for adding additional chunks of rail that are not shown in this picture. Call them for availability.
Yankee Hill deserves more respect than they get.
Been there, done that. Unfortunately no anti-seize was used and I think they actually put Loc-tite or Rocksett on there.