Aside from the obvious ergonomic differences and outputs varying across the model line-ups, is the X300 (or X300u) as durable as the Scout series regarding the switch, etc. for long-gun use? Is there a down-side to using one instead of the other as relates to how they hold up long-term under hard use? Not thinking about a tape switch for either.
I have both. I have a X300 at 12 o’clock on a FSP DD rail and I have 2 300 mini scouts that I run at 1 o’clock without tape switches.
I think both work well, the only downside to the x300 in my opinion is that it is easier to accidently activate the light when putting it in a case, because of how exposed the switch is. It is also easy to have it turn on and stay on in the case and kill your batteries.
The mini scout is a little more ergonomic for me to use, but really either work fine.
I am interested in hearing opinions from those with more experience.
As am I. The X300U seems like the best option all-around as far as price and performance is concerned from what I understand.
Have both, and for some reason, still prefer the Scout lights on long arm applications. For me, there are just more mounting options available, and the form factor is ideal. That’s by no means an indictment of the X300 series; merely a personal preference where we happen to have several highly-suitable options from the same manufacturer.
AC
I don’t have a ton of experience, but I recently switched from an X300 at 12 o’clock to a SF Fury EAG in a Low Pro mount on the advice of those who do.
Officially, Surefire has not pushed the X-series for long-gun mounting because the mount is not designed to handle hard impacts. On a handgun, the back plate is right up against the trigger guard, which soaks up some of the force from a hit up front. On a long gun, you only have plastic rails holding the light down, and nothing directly behind it. Another reason is switchology - the X300 switch is more prone to accidental discharge. Personally, I found a standard clicky more intuitive to hit pretty much all the time.
Some of these disadvantages are lessened somewhat by mounting the X300 at 12 o’clock, plus you get ambi activation, ideal light placement, save a few ounces over a typical light-mount combo. Realistically however, I’m not going to train enough to be proficient shooting from my support side shoulder. If you’ve used a Fury, you’ll know that the hot spot is wide enough that there’s little difference from mounting it anywhere from 10 to 2 o’clock. My Fury and LP mount weigh 2.7 oz more than a X300U and I’m willing to live with that.
A Fury and IWC/Low Pro mount is cheaper than a X300U or Scout (definitely cheaper than the upcoming 500 lumen Scout). I think it’s the best value and most versatile long arm weaponlight right now.
My concern with the X300 is all of the information I am reading on here about “takes a mallet to remove even when adjusted”.
Not very conducive to battery changes…
There is definitely a trick to it, but once you find a method that works, it isn’t quite as impossible as it might seem at first.
AC
I hate to be dense, but what trick could there be to a large item being inserted into a flexible small item and not wanting to come apart? Do you mean getting the adjustment correct, or sanding things down, or pressing the release ALL the way, or what is tripping people up?
I have both the Scout and the X300 mounted at 9 o’clock on my rifles. AD’s while the light is in the case is a problem with the X300 so I just leave the battery latch open when it’s in the case.
The X300 is a bitch to put on/take off the rail, which in a way is a good thing since I know recoil won’t cause it to fall off. It is annoying though.
The Scout is a great light. The only reason I put the X300 on my other rifle is because it needed a light and I had an X300 just sitting around that I never mounted on my Sig P229r.
I don’t want to use a mallet to change batteries. May stick with my scouts.
The only reason I had to remove the light was because I was experimenting with where to put it, not because I had to change the batteries. If you burn through batteries though it will be a pain to take it off the rail every time just to put in fresh batteries. I don’t know why Surefire didn’t mount the latch so it would open the other way, away from the rail.
Mine would be pressed against the FSB, and I would probably burn through them. Right now it would be fine, but soon I plan on buying some land and hunting hogs, etc. on it and doing some shooting at night, it would quickly get old.
You don’t actually need a mallet. The hard part is getting the latches down all the way so it can be slid off. In my experience with the 2 I have at least.
I found out that I had to loosen the six screws holding the rails onto the X300 body by just a smidge (be sure to loctite them). Even then it was a tight fit using the Picatinny crosslock.
The X300 switch is a plastic rocker, exposed to impact from both sides and the rear. The Scout switch has a metal body that would take the impact from any direction (the rubber clicky would collapse into the body if hit from behind) The durability of Surefire tailcap switches on long arms has been proven for decades, under all kinds of conditions.
I’m not saying there’s something wrong with the X300 switch, just look at what it was designed for and the materials for that application. It’s simply less than ideal for a long gun.
I had an x200 mounted on my SAW while on deployment. It ended up taking a tumble and breaking off the tab on the left side of the toggle switch. Surefire promptly replaced the switch and 6 years later it now resides on my personal carbine. Summary, I took a pistol light, mounted it on a 20lb light machine gun and it broke, not from regular use, but from a nasty fall.
That being said I am in the market for a replacement to mount on the carbine and I do think I will be looking for a light and mount designed with long gun use in mind. The x200 will go back on the handgun.