Go ahead, vent. People seem to be having problems I’ve never had with the thing. It hasnt yet ever hindered me but I’m all about learning from other’s mistakes.
Because it is BAD
It does work, I’ll give it that. I just dont care for screw-on gadgets on my guns. That and it requires slightly odd dexterity to manipulate it.
I like both of mine. It has induced some failure to lock back on empty malfunctions. I suspect a stouter spring behind the bolt catch lever would remedy that.
I have gotten accustomed to them and for me they work well.
Many have had problems with it (bolt not locking back). I have not. The only problem I have had is that I am OCD and don’t like the wiggle which makes me want to get the 1 piece Phase V version. However, I am going to bite the bullet and buy a completely ambi lower…eventually…
I actually like the bad lever but Imho it is to long so I cut both mine down so they are just inside the trigger guard. They still function but I’m less likely to accidently relaese the bolt during a mag change. My wife likes it because it is easier for her to operate anytime she needs to lock the bolt back. I would rather it be one pc instead of a bolt on but its what they make.
Make a new part that incorporates the bad lever into the bolt stop. ONE piece. Ship it with a new roll pin and a new spring calibrated for the extra mass of the lever.
Another complaint I’ve heard is the fact that there is a second dual function control inside the trigger guard.
The whole thing could be made moot by a redesigned lower.
Just some thoughts…
Muddyboots
While we’re on the topic does anyone know how to get one off if the head of the screw is stripped? The torx driver that came with it is not catching the teeth inside the head of the screw.
I’d prefer not to cut it off as I’d like to preserve it for future use.
Mine have worked brilliantly, stateside and in the sandbox, but I do agree that they’re a poor idea for somebody not intimately familiar with the AR manual of arms to start off with, and are still misunderstood as to their best features. Slightly faster reloads are okay, and simpler bolt release is a big advantage when using a redimag, but double feed clearance is what they’re best at.
While I’d prefer a Masada type modified lower where it’s a simple ambidextrous bolt lock/release lug that moves vertically and has a calibrated spring for it, the BAD isn’t a terrible piece of gear people are making it out to be, and if it wobbles some (because of tolerances between the bolt catch lever pin and lower receiver) I still wouldn’t fault the lever, and those are pretty minor grievances.
Well…
The most effective way would be to drill the screw head to separate the parts and then gingerly grab the short remaining screw shank with needle nosed vise grips and rotate it out. Barring that, push the roll pin out and replace the bolt stop.
HTH!
Muddyboots
Phase V makes this. Though they tried to hard to make it “radical” in their current design.
Dremmel a slot in the head for a small flat blade screwdriver and replace the screw with a cap head. Uses a standard allen wrench and the extra tightness is often enough to eliminate the play between the BAD and the bolt catch. I came up with this after ruining the screws that came with mine. This is the only way I could get these POS things to act right for me.
This I will speak up about this because at no point during a speed reload or a double feed clear does your finger enter inside the trigger guard.
From our POV, we have seen WAY TOO MANY guns not function properly (bolt not locking to the rear on last round) to ever recommend them.
IF the bolt does lock to the rear, the next issue is that the shooter can accidentally bump the lever and close the bolt BEFORE the mag has been inserted. The shooter fails to realize that a round was not chambered and gets a click. This sequence happens much more frequently when the shooter wears gloves.
The REAL reason for why the BAD was invented was to speed up the clearning of a type 3 malfunction. Most people believe that it was designed to speed up an emergency reload. This is not true (according to Magpul).
My main argument for not needing the BAD is because the number of type 3 malfunctions we see these days is really low. The reason for this is all the great mags and and anti-tilt followers available. Back in the day when all we had was cheap USGI mags, we saw A LOT more type 3 malfunctions. Not the case today.
For those that buy the BAD to speed up an E-reload, Costa did some testing on the speed difference. It was so small that it was not worth running it.
We believe that the BAD is such a poor idea that we put our money where our mouth is and stopped stocking them.
C4
At a rifle match, the stage called for every mag starting on the belt and the mags could only be loaded to 10 rounds each. I believe there were 16 targets, 2 shots each. On my second reload, I had taken an extra shot and ran dry unexpectedly, and kinda screwed my rhythm up. I went ahead an reloaded on an empty rifle that the BCG was locked back, in the confusion that ensued on what the hell had happened because I wasn’t supposed to run dry on the first shot of that target, I managed to remember to hit the BAD lever to close the bolt, but at the same time I stroked the trigger and sent a round into the target, luckily for me it was an Alpha, and I knew it was an Alpha, so I continued the rest of the stage. But that was the first time I had ever accidently stroked the trigger and ND’d. Although it wasn’t dangerous at the time, I am aware of it now and will be more careful. The RO and several other competitors thought it was a slam-fire or something.
I’ve never had Faliure to Lock Back with the BAD. Just put one my BCM lower and haven’t had a chance to shoot it yet. I don’t expect any problems with locking back with it either.
I haven’t had any issues with the BAD lever since they came out and have them installed on 4 ARs. I don’t know if it’s luck on my part or folks didn’t properly install them, or defective lever, but mine work as advertised. And yes, I do shoot the piss out of my ARs.
have them installed on 6 lowers, never had to do any modifications to get it to work, just put it on and it worked with Spikes, DPMS, CMMG, and even Cav Arms MkII lowers
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Try a T-9 torx bit. The supplied Torx is too small, probably designed to slip before it breaks the screw off. If the srew head is too stripped out to fit, drill it with a 1/8" Left Hand Bit. LINK A good hdwe store might have a Left-Hand Bit. They work great.
OR
You could just slowly drill it out with a RH 1/8" bit until the head separates from the screw.
The screw is a 4-40-1/4" Button Head.
Hope this helps.
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I’ve been thinking about hitting the large piece (the one that goes against the textured side of the bolt catch) with some rubber cement or similar adhesive, which ought to limit the wiggle.
This has been my concern although I’ve not used a BAD nor seem any malfs with them.
A leo I talked with at our local range a few months back was running a couple of them. He seemed to feel he had found a better mouse trap but watching him drop the bolt the INSTANCE the mag was inserted smacked me with the thought of “how long before the bolt closes on an empty chamber?” I personally like to do my “pull” test to ensure a seated mag before releasing the bolt. I felt the BAD was erasing the line between seated mag and bolt release too much for my comfort. But hey, mabe it’s just me.
Thanks Grant, you really are looking out for us:D