If you have standardized your optics and lights on one battery type, why?
Here’s a basic rundown of + & - for each:
AA:
(+)
• Sold nearly everywhere/easy to find
• Cheap alkaline variant
• Easy to find recharging docks
• Commonality with other gear like Comms, NOD’s
(-)
• Much fewer choices for lights, optics
• Alkaline variant can ooze, destroy gear
• Larger size, lower output
CR123:
(+)
• Many lights, optics to choose from
• Smaller size, higher output
• Sold many places
(-)
• Much fewer choices for recharging docks
• Little commonality with other gear like Comms, NOD’s
If I’ve missed anything, add it in. Why did you decide to have a shelf full of spare _____ batteries?
I like 123s. I like the power in a small size. I don’t have NODS or any other gear that runs on battery besides light and optic. I try to keep it simple.
I had the light before the optic.
I still have one rifle setup with with a Aimpoint that I will standardize into a duplicate of my goto rifle as funds permit
I avoid alkalines for anything tactical. They leak, they freeze, they leak more. Lithiums are more powerful, durable and have a shelf life that makes their lesser availability mostly moot.
I would like greater battery commonality among my devices, but “standardization” isn’t even on the horizon for me. I have too many AA, AAA, 123, 2032, and other devices. I travel quite a bit, but spares aren’t so inconvenient yet to make me more motivated.
I do buy in bulk, which helps on pricing. The purpose-built spares carriers are handy.
my EDC lights which I use constantly are AA rechargeable.
my weapon lights which I use in limited circumstances but must be reliable are 123.
I also keep on my gear a Fenix PD10 which uses a single 123 and has 3 brightness settings. no push button but it’s very small and light and I use the pocket clip to attach it to the bill of my cap for a headlamp.
Random note:
Anything that uses two conventional 1.5v batteries can be powered in an emergency with a single CR123 and a bit of wire, tape and attention to polarity.
Using conventional batteries in CR123 powered devices can work also, but battery life usually ends up being measured in minutes, not hours.
Seemingly useless I know, but then at one point in time I never thought I’d never need to run a 60W lightbulb off a car battery for days at a time due to lack of wall outlets or generator.
As to the intent of the OP, I try to keep all my devices in the AA and CR123, and no D, C, flat disc or watch battery stuff so that the above cross compatibility can be employed if neccisary.
That an a lot less crap to carry and care for. 2 D cells = around 20rd 5.56mm in volume and weighs less to boot…
I really do prefer the 123A’s simply because the batteries themselves that are available are generally higher quality, store better, and the improved power density makes them more economical to carry if weight takes priority over cost.
AAA’s are the only other option I consider, since rechargeable ones can work, they’re great for snivel and other pack gear (headsets, headlamps, lanterns, comm gear), and can be used in the place of AA’s as needed. Mostly, the only electronics I consider worth carrying on my person for patrols/hikes/combat were a PTec headlamp and Garmin Foretrex, each uses 3xAAA’s.