Finally getting sick of using drill bits, etc to push pins out.
Who has the best kit for both drive pins and roll pins?
Thanks!
Brownells is your friend.
Dan
Brownells
You friendly neighborhood hardware store. Or home depot.
I paid to much for them,but I got my set off the Mac Tool Truck !!!:eek: They are outstanding though !! 
I could never find a set at my local Lowe’s,not “Roll Pin” punches,just reg. punches. No Home Depot close to me !
I dont know how much of a difference you’ll notice with different quality. I just use some brand my dad had laying around his house (no clue what it was, but I never heard of it before). They should all be “in spec” dimension wise and be hard enough that a roll pin wont deform it.
Brownells has Starrett punches, roll pin punches and starter punches. I have used them successfully for years.
I have a Grace 3/32" and 1/8" roll pin punch which came from Brownells that have been perfect for working on an AR-15.
Roll pin punches are the only way to go.
Boy, I agree that it’s very useful to have a set of all three…plain punches, roll pin starter punches, and roll pin punches. Especially with the latter, don’t cheap out. The cheaper ones do get bent up.
Starrett is about as good as it gets, IMO.
I use Mayhew brand roll pin punches. Seem to be decent quality.
Starrett is what I have migrated to - amazing quality.
What this guy said.
I got a full set of Grace punches from Brownells. High quality and work perfectly.
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Just curious: How often are these used and for what purposes?
Is there anything, for example, a Glock tool can’t do as far as takedown?
Removal/installation of gas tube, FSB, trigger guard, bolt catch, ejector.
Thanks
Grace RP punch set from Midway…highest quality
Roll pin holder set from Brownell’s
Delrin pin pushers from Midway (for trigger and takedown pins)
For specialized gunsmithing punches (like the one for knocking out/in the bolt catch pin) Brownells is the place to go. However, for regular pin and roll pin punches Starrett from any hardware store will be more than sufficient. Do remember that any tool that has the word “Gunsmith’s” in front of it usually run at least 25% more than the same tool without the gunsmithing label, so if there’s nothing special about the tool (ie you can find the exact same design by a quality manufacturer) then buy it at Sears etc.
A side note on Sears - when I was a poor gunsmithing student one of the things to do was to search through the local swap meets for Craftsman hand tools on the weekends. You could often find worn, rusted and/or broken tools en masse for a few dollars. Then you’d just take that box of tools over to the local Sears and trade them in for brand spanking new ones no questions asked. 
Would brass suffice for pretty much every use except staking?