I have decided on a NightForce 2.5-10x24 optic for my SPR build. I am looking at the Geissele 30mm Super Precision mount. My question is, what moa cant is recommended for a 0-700m role of an SPR? I do plan to learn on how to adjust elevation for different range shots rather than just hold overs/unders. As for standard length or extended, which would be best for the eye relief of said optic?
Also, mil or moa for the optic?
20 MOA is my pic. Maxing out at 700 you’ll probably only dial up a max of 6 to 7 mils depending on ammo. The 20 gives you more total come up. I started with a standard base on my bolt gun and had to swap it for a 20 because my first scope was maxing out… and some guys will say that scopes track better in the middle of the span of adjustment.
When you say SPR, I assume you are talking about a 223/556 gun with an ~18” barrel.
I looked up the specs on the scope you want to use and it shows 27.3 mils of internal adjustment, so I figured on 13 mils of UP adjustment once zeroed. A 77gr smk with a muzzle velocity of 2750 fps is going to require ~5.5 mils of come up @700 yards and about double that at 1000 yards. Therefore the scope should have plenty of internal adjustment to handle the range you want to shoot and farther.
That said, a 20 MOA cant won’t hurt anything although it won’t be necessary. You will probably want the “hyper-extended” version for an AR15, but I don’t have personal experience there as I have Bobro mounts with about a 2” forward offset. The extended version would probably work too, but the standard length would not.
Mil vs Moa - doesn’t really matter. What matters is that you pick one or the other and stick to it, and buy scopes with matching reticles and turrets. This isn’t an issue with NF but if you buy a scope with .1 mil/click turrets, make sure the reticle is calibrated in mils. Likewise if you buy a scope with .25 MOA/click turrets, make sure that the reticle has MOA subtensions.
Years ago I decided on mils because it seemed like more people were going in that direction and therefore whoever I would be shooting with would more likely be using mils as well. Really doesn’t matter though, pick the one that gives you warms fuzzies and learn it well.
My first scope was a Super Sniper with Mil dot reticle and MOA turrets. It worked ok in that I only used the reticle for milling targets/range estimating, and everything else was MOA. But we are now mils across the board now.
I’ve done a fair amount of research on the MIL/MOA topic lately and while it seems that MOA is easier to pick up for most because that’s what dots use to adjust, MIL seems preferred and more common across the board with guys who know what they’re doing. Would probably make it easier if you ever take a scopes rifle class. That being said I’ve never actually used a MIL scope, just something I’ve noticed.
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Additional question: what is a quality mounting/leveling kit for an optic?
Yep, an 18" BCM SS410. Excellent. Hit all my questions. Thanks, highly appreciated.
The Arisaka kit worked very well for me, I wasn’t aware of any others but didn’t need to be. Pretty cheap, can be found on amazon and Brownells, and effective. Used it with the Vortex torque wrench.
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Any thoughts on the Wheeler kit?
The Wheeler Fat Wrench sells for about $45 by its self. The alignment rods are really only useful with scope rings. Wouldn’t be needed with a quality one piece mount, which is what I prefer on an AR.
I mount scopes using bubble levels. I then verify with a known target that is level and plumb. I then tighten the caps to spec
Wheeler has a bubble level kit on Brownells. Going for 39.99 currently.
We use that wheeler bubble kit. It works good. In a pinch, I’ve just used extra magnetic levelers from Harbor freight.
I just use bubble levels to get the scope close. I then verify level and plumb with the reticle using a known, marked crosshatch in the shop.
I use a cheap set of bubbles like these.
The Spuhr wedge system is the easiest and most foolproof system, but it only works with rings.
Feeler gauges are all you need to level a scope
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The flashlight method has always served me well.
Level the rifle, make sure that it is secure (sandbags and locking the rotation on the bipod usually does the trick.
Shine a flashlight through the objective lense back through the scope so that the light comes out of the ocular lense.
It will project an image of your cross hairs onto the wall behind the rifle.
Hang a plumbob to determine if the cross hairs are level, adjust as needed.
No matter which of the methods you use, if you are really serious about getting the scope level, you need to make sure to test it.
Good Luck!
That’s a great idea!
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and cheap too!
The cheap Wheeler or harbor freight levels with a rifle level bubble US OPTICS , which should be on that gun. If not get that level if you plan to shoot 500 plus. You need to level your gun while shooting.
Hope that helps.
PB
I use this method too. It is also a great way to check that your reticle is level within the scope.
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Absolutely, this way you KNOW that the reticle is level to the rifle, regardless of the orientation of the scope itself.
MIL/MIL. 20 MOA if the majority of the shooting is going to be done past 500y/m with the 5.56. You don’t need bubble levels… just use the feeler gauge method or even playing cards as shims to level the underside of the scope body (where its machined flat) level with the Scope mount itself.